I was just told by my mechanic that i would need a new drive shaft. Apparently hes getting it shipped from Mazda because there aren't any new ones up here. Is $600 CAD a reasonable price for the full job, drive shaft plus labor?

I guess while i am on the topic, are there any hints that my drive shaft has gone bad?

pretty much when in 1st gear in traffic its bucks pretty bad at 1000 - 2500 (i try to ease up as much as i can on the gas so its smooth when i let off.) and my whole car rattles when i go on they highway (80 km/h around +) .

 

http://mazdatrix.com/g9.htm

 

replacing the driveshaft should be about an hour's labor...if you know what you're doing.

 

It should cost about $400 USD (~$300 driveshaft, ~$100 for 1 hour labor).

 

Holy **** if you're cool with paying 100 bucks an hour labor I'll come to you and do any work you need.

 

...or you could do it yourself for <$100

edit: with a used part that is.

 

To check your U joints in your driveshaft, just jack up your car and wiggle the U joint both vertically and horizontally where the U joint meets the shaft. if there is any visible play, then you probably need a new U joints. Since mazda had the amazing idea of not making the U joints replaceable, you have to buy a completle driveshaft. I like mazdatrix myself, and they happen to stock aftermarket driveshafts that have replaceable U joints and they also happen to be about $100(US) cheaper than an OEM shaft. http://mazdatrix.com/g9.htm Also, if you have a jack and a couple jack stands, you could easily replace your shaft yourself. Depending on what exhaust you have, I think you have to remove some of the piping, and then all you have to do is loosen the four bolts where the driveshaft hooks up to the differential, and then you can slide the diff end of the shaft down and pull the other end out of the tranny. Slide the new shaft in the tranny and then torque the diff bolts down to 40 ft lbs. After that just reinstall your exhaust piping and i believe you'd be good to go.

 

Okay, well i guess looking at the mazdatrix site if the drive shaft is aluminum it would be reasonable then, wouldn't it? also can i use a turbo drive shaft on a N/A, so when eventually do a t2 swap i don't have to buy another one.

That sounds pretty easy FC_DAN, would i need any special tools?

 

I just replaced my drive shaft, mazdatrix has OEM ones for 200 and aluminum ones for like 300ish! Try and do it your self, pretty easy to do and I am not even mechanically inclined at all, took me about 1.5 hours by myself. Take of your exhaust and it is like 4 screws! Good luck

 

no cant use the t2 drive shaft, wont fit

 

No. The driveshafts aren't the same lenght.

 

okay this job seems really easy now sweet.


My car is bone stock with a racing beat exhaust, should i go for the aluminum drive shafts or just the aftermarkets? if it makes any difference i don't plan to add any more power till a year or 2.

 

if you are going to do a turbo swap sometime down the road or switch to a turbo drivetrain i would just buy a used shaft from someone. its going to be about $25-$40 plus shipping. you will need to get a different one when you do the swap anyway.

 

Call up a respectable mechanic that knows rotaries and see how much they charge. Been out of the loop awhile? Hack shops don't count.

I do all my own labor, but if the OP doesn't have the knowledge to do it himself yet, he's going to be paying for labor.

 

yeah if you can find a used one thatd be great, i paid 40 for mine, check out the for sale section

 

o wow really that cheap? where could i get some?

But the reason why i am buying a new one because my mechanic was say the he didn't trust the u-joints, but he could have just said that to make me buy a new one. Do you trust them?

and in reality probably soonest in 2 years i would do a t2 swap.

 

its your money man...look in the classifieds section or even a local junk yard.

 

the only tools id say are an impact gun(would make the exhaust removal nice and quick, but you could also use a regular old ratchet or a wrench.) with the correct sockets and a torque wrench. be sure to spray some penetrating oil on the exhaust bolts before you remove them. If your keepin your N/A, then the aluminium shaft would give a :slight: increase in acceleration.

 

Okay i will, one last question, is it okay for me to drive with a potential damaged drive shaft for a while?

 

if it snaps, you are gonna have to call a tow truck...

dont end up like this guy: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-rx-7-1986-1992-parts-194/need-buy-borrow-na-5-speed-driveshaft-columbus-area-799783/

 

haha, ill try not to. lucky for me my car got stolen and its at the body shop being repaired, cant even drive it if i wanted to.

 

Why does the mechanic need to know rotaries? Wer'e talking about a driveshaft. I wouldnt pay any more than 65/hour unless I knew for a fact that they knew exactly what they were doing, like if they were a rotary specialist that was doing something TO THE ENGINE.

 

yeah I trust the ujoints...how many miles were on your car before it broke? I had 110k on the clock before mine broke, and only cause occasionally i drive like an *******!

 

270,i just bought it, but on the 1st day i didn't see a ditch and my entire front went in (very slowly), i had to lift the front then reverse.

 

Oh Jesus. If you feel comfortable paying some random retard to do anything to your car, feel free. $65 will get you just that. Now, instead of trolling to flame people on inconsequential estimates, try posting something relevant. The mechanic that gave the OP an estimate quoted WAYYYYY more than I just did, yet I don't see any comment on that. You might try addressing the original subject matter before acting like a douche.