TitaniumTT

Bottom line is with just about anything, you will get what you pay for. If you buy $25 rotors @ Napa and x-drilled and slotted with super-crazy drift pads on them for $30..... can anyone honestly say they will perform a function? I've been informed of a few tests of aftermarket brake kits where the stopping distances where actually LEGTHENED from stock

All I'm really saying I guess is make a few phone calls to reputable companies and start asking some right questions and make an informed decision. I can tell you what I think of my KVR setup, but what the hell is that worth?

Also of note.... www.irotor.com no longer exists.

'87 turbo II

iTrader: (1)

does anybody on this forum talk directly to the original poster? Or do we just bicker amongst ourselves? I hope you 2 know you've made really big fools of yourselves and shown levels of immaturity that have been previously unrivaled. How about we grow up and get along?

RotaMan99

You have the address wrong! Like a lot of times, you are wrong.

I already did!

I admit to buying something without doing the research 3-4 years ago so now they are basically in the catagory as "bling". I am actually thinking of going back to solid rotors.

Again, you have the address and company wrong. The company I got my rotors from use a CNC machine to make them. Im not going to say they are the best rotors out there because they are not. If you read their site, you can easily tell they are not the "top notch" brake company, they actually sound like they were a bunch of young honda owner that used their dads money to get a CNC machine to do the work them selfs.

If the rotors actually cost $25 dollars and the super crazy drift pads were $30? I wouldn't even touch them.

This is rediculous how you keep coming on like this for no reason at all. Im done in this thread. You can talk to your self now and pretend you know everything.

Evil Aviator

So, in the usual internet way of doing things, we now have loads of mis-information on this subject, and we have come back to the bottom line of my original post, lol:

rx7racerca

iTrader: (1)

Whoa, bad science alert! Heat has gas-like qualities? That's very 18th century. The earlier poster was correct in saying that cross-drilling was originally done to dissipate outgassing from the pads under heavy loads of racing - back in the 60's and 70's. Improved manufacturing and materials technology eliminated outgassing as a concern long ago. An incidental benefit of cross drilling was a tendency to "chew" away a little of the pad under braking to prevent glazing, trading away pad and rotor life in favour of more consistent braking under racing conditions. It provides NO cooling benefit, and in fact generates extra heat, while removing material decreases the rotor's effectiveness as a heat sink, meaning it will reach or exceed it's maximum allowable temperature sooner. Even back when outgassing pads was a problem, the objective of cross-drilling wasn't cooling, it was to provide a way out for a tiny layer of high-pressure gas that would otherwise prevent good pad-rotor contact.

Slotting emerged as an alternative to gain this improved braking consistency without, or with less of, cross-drilling's disadvantages - weakening the rotor (the stress cracking a number of people have already mentioned), removing rotor material and decreasing it's effectiveness as a heat sink, and decreased surface area. It still really has more use for the track than the street, except as bling, as it wears pads even faster than cross-drilling, and does decrease rotor friction surface area, relative to the same-size rotor without slotting or drilling.

If the OP plans to track the car extensively (and I mean lapping/roadracing, not just autocrossing, as a rule), slotted probably make sense, but not otherwise - and certainly not both. In street use, besides the bling factor (which he can feel free to choose, it should just be an informed decision, realizing it is unlikely to improve braking performance), the primary effect will be fast pad wear and lots of dusting - even a relatively low dust, street/light track -performance pad like a Hawk HPS will leave the rims looking perpetually grimey. If the OP wants to track the car and use a more aggressive, higher temperature pad better suited to track use, and use the same pads and rotors on the street, slotting or crossdrilling could help heat up the brakes to their effective temp range better, or at least get them closer to it, since it is likely they would still never get hot enough to work optimally in street driving.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

We're done here.

Thanks for ruining the topic, guys.

Warnings sent via Infraction system.