what brand & weight would you recommend for a FD that has 68k on a remanufactured engine???

 

I always used 20w50 castrol gtx on my rebuilt streetported s4 n/a , I was under the impression that thicker oil gives better protection, especially at high rpms, and also increases your oil pressure slightly

 

The Mazda-recommended oil for a 13B-REW engine in your climate is 10W-30. You can download a free workshop manual from this website:
Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals

As for brands, I like Castrol GTX because it has historically been a good oil for rotary engines.

 

Just did a change... bought a 5.1qt jug of 20x50 GTX.... yay go me.


(I will say this... lately.. at least after the oil change...) on cold starts the car will bog and stall, or dip/bounce and almost die... I've NEVER had this happen before, I have no idea why now.... (I don't let the 3k rpm warmup happen, I always start in first.)

 

what's your idle set at ? the oil is alot thicker and heavier, thats why it is probably not idling as easily, the oil thins out as it gets hotter (im pretty sure)

as to why it would have problems cold starting im not really sure, my old rx7 always had problems on cold starts, and id have to hold the pedal myself, but i also had my bac removed (bad idea), 5/6 ports removed, removed 2ndary throttlebody plates, and a streetported motors. lolz

 

Its always idled really low... like... the 2-4thish small ticks... I would say 100 or 200rpm, my buddy says I can't count ticks and its actually at 900... I really doubt it since 900 would be RIGHT UNDER1k RPM.... So yea, Its been too low from the start of getting the car.

 

Have you tried to adjust it? also check your timing and tps

400-500 is Mega low you want around 750

 

it could deff be around 400ish... is it bad to have a low idle? Ive not yet tried to adjust it.

 

It's not bad but the car is going to have a hard time idling that low because it'll be bogging out, it needs more flow to hold a steady idle. That's why you want it around 750, if you look at the tach it will have a few small hash marks , then a big mark, the big mark is 500 rpms , so youll want it at least 2 hash marks above that, or so.

Heres a picture from a video I found on youtube, it's an s5 but they should both idle at the same rpm.

This pic shows about where you should be.

So if you're disregarding that first big mark, that's half your problem because thats 500 rpms from what I know, and not the starting point.

 

hmm... maybe my buddy is right, I don't know what Im talking about, because thats where my idle sits... just about yup. when I come to stops it ALWAYS takes a little dip lower, but NEVER dies.
Only recently after oil change, on cold starts when started in first does it die. It did not yesterday though... Ill see about this morning.

 

Well if your timing is off that could make it harder for it to idle, have you checked the tming , or do you know how ?

Other than that, check the tps (throttle position sensor) adjustment, as well as the screw near the pressure sensor to adjust the rich/leaness of your idle, either can help make it idle smoother.

If all else fails you could raise the idle with the idle screw on top of the intake by loosening it up, should bring it up some.

Another thing that it could be is a bad brake booster, it can cause the idle to drop way more than it should when you're coming to a stop and really getting on the brakes.

One more thing that can be associated to the problem is a bad bac valve (bypass air control) , this controls/adjusts the idle when it sees that you're taking electrical load. I.e - turning on the heat/ac


You'll get it running right I hope, the worst case scenario is your car is having problems idling because the compression is very low, let's hope that's not the case.