done everything said, still no spark help
08-11-10, 03:43 PM
#26
I can manage to find a vert ecu locally. So what your telling me is to check the ecu manually by putting in the back of the wires the voltmeter in each and everyone and make sure that they are up to spec? If that's it I'll do it for each wire but ivalreadt did it for both coils the cas main relay and grounds and starter I did not do the others but how would any of the others affect spark?
08-11-10, 04:40 PM
#27
Sorry,
I thought you just checked at the CAS, the coils and the main relay. If you have tested at the ECU and are getting the correct inputs there and their still is no spark then it's still either the ECU or something else in the equation. Have you replaced the main fuses with known good ones? Other then that I don't know what other direction to steer you to?
I thought you just checked at the CAS, the coils and the main relay. If you have tested at the ECU and are getting the correct inputs there and their still is no spark then it's still either the ECU or something else in the equation. Have you replaced the main fuses with known good ones? Other then that I don't know what other direction to steer you to?
I can manage to find a vert ecu locally. So what your telling me is to check the ecu manually by putting in the back of the wires the voltmeter in each and everyone and make sure that they are up to spec? If that's it I'll do it for each wire but ivalreadt did it for both coils the cas main relay and grounds and starter I did not do the others but how would any of the others affect spark?
08-11-10, 05:24 PM
#28
I havent replaced the main fuses, they look like the original ones I tested them and they are good but they do look old. The car turned on but did this thing of not turning on once in a while but. Then it would turn on, but now no luck in anything
08-11-10, 09:30 PM
#30
yes it used to do that before, it would start and run perfect, then you go start it tomorrow and it would not spark i would disconnect the trailing connect it and i would hear a click then it would spark and start, but now it just dosent spark at all and i have done everything to said and i still cant figure out now why its not firing.
i am out of ideas.
i am out of ideas.
08-12-10, 12:27 PM
#33
You could check the AFM according to the FSM. If that doesn't indicate anything wrong then perhaps check the B/Y wire for one and the B/W wire for another at pin 3I as the car is turned over to look for a contious voltage as opposed to it cutting out. An analog multimeter (one with needle) would work best if you have one. Outside of that, a replacement ECU as previously suggested would be the next step.
08-12-10, 12:54 PM
#34
http://mazdarx7.iougs.com/faqdiagnosing.shtml
check at the ECU these pins: 1u 1v 1x, for the values listed on the page above. this will tell you if the ECU is not putting OUT current to turn them on. should tell you if your ecu is bad, 90 percent of the time i get no sparks, its been a bad ecu, rather then a bad cas or bad coil.
check at the ECU these pins: 1u 1v 1x, for the values listed on the page above. this will tell you if the ECU is not putting OUT current to turn them on. should tell you if your ecu is bad, 90 percent of the time i get no sparks, its been a bad ecu, rather then a bad cas or bad coil.
08-12-10, 01:38 PM
#35
You could check the AFM according to the FSM. If that doesn't indicate anything wrong then perhaps check the B/Y wire for one and the B/W wire for another at pin 3I as the car is turned over to look for a contious voltage as opposed to it cutting out. An analog multimeter (one with needle) would work best if you have one. Outside of that, a replacement ECU as previously suggested would be the next step.
http://mazdarx7.iougs.com/faqdiagnosing.shtmlefficiency
check at the ECU these pins: 1u 1v 1x, for the values listed on the page above. this will tell you if the ECU is not putting OUT current to turn them on. should tell you if your ecu is bad, 90 percent of the time i get no sparks, its been a bad ecu, rather then a bad cas or bad coil.
check at the ECU these pins: 1u 1v 1x, for the values listed on the page above. this will tell you if the ECU is not putting OUT current to turn them on. should tell you if your ecu is bad, 90 percent of the time i get no sparks, its been a bad ecu, rather then a bad cas or bad coil.
08-12-10, 07:38 PM
#36
you could check the afm according to the fsm. If that doesn't indicate anything wrong then perhaps check the b/y wire for one and the b/w wire for another at pin 3i as the car is turned over to look for a contious voltage as opposed to it cutting out. An analog multimeter (one with needle) would work best if you have one. Outside of that, a replacement ecu as previously suggested would be the next step.
08-12-10, 07:43 PM
#37
http://mazdarx7.iougs.com/faqdiagnosing.shtml
check at the ecu these pins: 1u 1v 1x, for the values listed on the page above. This will tell you if the ecu is not putting out current to turn them on. Should tell you if your ecu is bad, 90 percent of the time i get no sparks, its been a bad ecu, rather then a bad cas or bad coil.
check at the ecu these pins: 1u 1v 1x, for the values listed on the page above. This will tell you if the ecu is not putting out current to turn them on. Should tell you if your ecu is bad, 90 percent of the time i get no sparks, its been a bad ecu, rather then a bad cas or bad coil.
08-12-10, 07:48 PM
#38
I just checked the g/y wire in the leading coil and when my dad cranked it it would go up to about 4 volts then when he would let go it would go to 5 and back to zero, the trailing in the other hand i disconnected the 2 prong plug and i told my dad to put it to on and i got 12v then i told him to crank and it would flutter a little between 10v and 12v. I did this for both prongs, is this correct? Are my coils k? I checked them in the ecu and the voltage read out when the key is to on, is up to spec for all the prongs for both coils.
08-12-10, 08:18 PM
#39
I just checked the g/y wire in the leading coil and when my dad cranked it it would go up to about 4 volts then when he would let go it would go to 5 and back to zero, the trailing in the other hand i disconnected the 2 prong plug and i told my dad to put it to on and i got 12v then i told him to crank and it would flutter a little between 10v and 12v. I did this for both prongs, is this correct? Are my coils k? I checked them in the ecu and the voltage read out when the key is to on, is up to spec for all the prongs for both coils.
The two prong plug which houses the B/Y wires should act as you mentioned for during cranking the voltage drops because of the load necessary to start the car.
08-12-10, 08:42 PM
#40
It's best to check the G/Y wire when the engine is hand cranked because if the engine turns quickly you won't see the voltage change from 5 volts to 0 volts and back to 5 in a repititious manner.
The two prong plug which houses the B/Y wires should act as you mentioned for during cranking the voltage drops because of the load necessary to start the car.
The two prong plug which houses the B/Y wires should act as you mentioned for during cranking the voltage drops because of the load necessary to start the car.
i hand cranked it and it did just as you said, the leading.
08-12-10, 08:48 PM
#41
The B/Y wire is not impacted by the ECU in any way as it comes from the Main relay and goes directly to the coils first before going to the injectors. When you hand cranked the engine if you found that the voltage on the G/Y wire was 5 volts for the most part and then blipped to 0 volts before going back to 5 volts in a repeated manner then the ECU is doing its job with respect to the G/Y wire.
08-12-10, 08:59 PM
#42
The B/Y wire is not impacted by the ECU in any way as it comes from the Main relay and goes directly to the coils first before going to the injectors. When you hand cranked the engine if you found that the voltage on the G/Y wire was 5 volts for the most part and then blipped to 0 volts before going back to 5 volts in a repeated manner then the ECU is doing its job with respect to the G/Y wire.
08-12-10, 09:12 PM
#43
so that would mean that the ecu is working properly all together or just in the g/y wire? because i am trying to see if my ecu is bad or not because a previous poster said to check the 1x 1u and the last one i forgot what it was but i checked that and it was up to spec. let me go and hand crank it and let you guys know
08-12-10, 09:23 PM
#44
Your checking one aspect of the ECU when dealing with the G/Y wire and that is it and it means nothing more. It does not tell you whether the ECU as a whole is good. The wires that the poster suggested you check deal with both coils and you can only check w/key to on and not at idle which are both given values for in the FSM and not at cranking. Besides you only need the leading coil to start the car. If I were you I would sand down the inside of the fender until the paint was removed as it relates to fastening it to the car. Lastly, the problem that you had which was fixed temporarily by disconnecting the 4 wire plug to the trailing coil should not have any affect on the leading coil and with respect to the leading coil maybe some dielectric grease on the plug wires at the bore and at the 2 wire plug would be a good idea.
ill do that to the leading coil and sand the fender down, but my tach is not bouncing, will the leading coil not firing make my tach not bounce? i ve always read that the trailing is the one that makes the tach bounce. if the leading doent fire, will it make the trailing not fire?
08-12-10, 09:33 PM
#45
i hand cranked it and its fine, i see it go to zero then back to 5 back to zero and so on.
ill do that to the leading coil and sand the fender down, but my tach is not bouncing, will the leading coil not firing make my tach not bounce? i ve always read that the trailing is the one that makes the tach bounce. if the leading doent fire, will it make the trailing not fire?
ill do that to the leading coil and sand the fender down, but my tach is not bouncing, will the leading coil not firing make my tach not bounce? i ve always read that the trailing is the one that makes the tach bounce. if the leading doent fire, will it make the trailing not fire?
08-13-10, 08:15 PM
#46
k satch i did what you told me to sand down to the metal the fender of the leading and it worked, i am getting spark now. it looks like a weak spark but a spark nonetheless, but its still not starting, it looks like its flooding, i took out the spark plugs cleaned them and it kinda goes and start to catch but then it just goes down again. ill let it sit till tomorrow and ill try it again. thanks for the help everyone
08-13-10, 08:47 PM
#47
You could try spraying some starter fluid into the air intake for 2 to 3 seconds at most and with the fuel pump disconnected try and start the car. If the car starts it will run only briefly and then stall. Try this procedure two or three times then reconnect the connection to the fuel pump and try starting the car normally.
08-14-10, 06:40 PM
#49
from one problem, to another, the car started but only by pulling it with my truck, it looks like the fuel regulator is putting so much gas into the engine that it wont even idle, to keep it running i needed to keep it have throttle minimum. and it ignited in the exhaust like a flamethrower and melted my rear bumper. How do i check my fpr? any ideas on how to fix this or what it could be?
08-14-10, 06:50 PM
#50
If you want to test the FPR then disconnect one end of the hose between the fuel filter and the engine and "T" in a pressure gauge between the filter and the engine and attempt to start the car and the pressure gauge ought to read close to 30. To get a proper reading make sure you "T" in the pressure gauge as opposed to just connecting the gauge to the fuel filter hose where the gauge is the last thing in line. Doing this would give you the pressure of the fuel pump and not the FPR.