I have an NA 88 SE that is having problems idling. It will start, but I have to give it gas to keep it running. My question is comparing it to my TII.
When I floor it, the RPM's go pretty slow across the whole range to 6-7K.
In my TII after about 3500 RPM, it goes alot faster to 7K RPMs. Isn't that mainly because the 2nd Rotor is kicking in?

I think the 2nd rotor in the NA isn't working like it should be. Is that what others think? I'm going to try the ATF trick on the 2nd rotor again because it was flooded for along time. It has about 140K miles on it.

 

don't think it's blown seals, maybe just bad tps or afm?
I guess compression check is the only way to know for sure.

 

can also be the ignition if the TPS and mass-air are ok. A blown seal backfires bad, will not start easy (requires a lot of cranking) along with some other problems. The computers in the cars are very air sensitive and a loose part of the intake can cause alot of problems.

 

What do you mean second rotor kicking in? They don't fire up sequentially. If one rotor is stuck, the car sounds distinctly different and has barely any power. If your problem is limited to 6k and up look elsewhere perhaps.

 

Well the quickest and easiest way to determine a bad seal or something is do a compression test.

Run the car for like 10 minutes then shut it down.

let it cool down for like 5 minutes.

Take the compression tester and hold the release valve in. Have some one crank the engine with the gas pedal down(remove the EGI fuses!).

You shoudl see even bounces on the gauage.

If you see it bounce.

80-80-80 Your good.
80-60-80/80-60-60/80-0-0 etc is bad and you lost a seal.

You can then also do an over all rotor check. leave the release valve alone and see what the psi reaches to on housing.

My rebuild is currently 65/65/65 and 90psi on each rotor housing.

 

Let me describe what my car was doing: Sounds very similar.

Hard to start. Runs VERY rough and shakes violently below 2000 RPM, but smoothes out above 2k or so. However, lacks power (barely drivable), and will take 4-5 seconds to get up to 6k RPM from an idle, at a very leisurely pace.

If that sounds familiar, go do a compression check with your thumb or ear. Pull a plug, and turn it over with a socket or something. My rebuild is finally back in the car - my rear rotor was toast. It was very evident - no compression at all on the rear. A tip seal had left and torn up the rotor & housing.

-=Russ=-