The stock setup has it sitting perfectly leveled and straight. I made my own 3" intake duct. Does the meter has to sit straight and level again, or can it side like sideways, upside down, tilted upwards etc? Does its position really matter?

 

It does perform best if left in the stock position. I have heard of people having prolbems with them in different positions.

 

Is there a way to make the intake duct of the airflow meter BIGGER? Its a pretty small square with a little flapper on it, so just wondering...

 

You could go with a Haltech and eliminate it completely.

 

put it the stock way and build a bracket so it can't move around when the engine moves.

 

i know this isn't really the post for this but it is close enough(intakes and all)

is there anything i should know before i make my BOV vent out into the atmosphere,,,does it cause any problems with the air meter if it vents already metered air??

just curious,and thought maybe you guys could help

 

The series 4 airflow meters need to be mounted in the stock position, or they dont work properly. The series 5 ones, on the other hand could care less how you mount them. Mine is upside down, and has been for 15K miles, no problems.(had to for the cone filter and mounting)

 

Hey is the air flow meter the same as the MAF? What exactly happens when you have it not like stock, say totally upside-down maybe? I did this and my car is messed all up now. Hmmm...details would help. Thanks alot.

 

same thing. when the 86-88 ones are not in the stock way. the door will not open as it should and might not fully open or close.

and to the above you can not vent the stock BOV to air unless you have a big one way check valve. better off to buy an aftermarket one that is ment for it.

 

And what can this do exactly?

 

OK, I have listened to all these naysayers long enough. I have mounted 2 bonez hi-flow air intakes, one on an 88 N/A, the other on an 87 TII. To properly mount this intake requires you to turn the AFM 90 degrees sideways. Both cars experienced absolutely no ill effects that I can see. As a matter of fact, I have the A/F ratio monitored on my TII, and it looked totally normal. However, I read an article here on the Forum, paniced, and remounted my AFM correctly (horizontal). The reason seemed to make sense - gravity affects the flap when it is not horizontal. Well, here are the results - A slight change in idle mix, it was a touch leaner, but well within Stoich. No change in the rest of the A/F ratio readings throughout the entire range. It is interesting to note that clearance problems make horizontal mounting very difficult, and Rotary Performance has been selling these kits (vertical mount) for years. IMHO, if you turn your AFM vertical, and it developes problems, it was about to break anyway, since an AFM in good condition works just fine this way.

My $.02

Irv, Keith's dad

 

Well my car started running hot, could this have some effect like that? It does seem to have happened since I put the intake on.

 

If you installed a cone filter intake, you could be running hot because you are sucking air straight from the very hot engine bay. If this is the case you could try biulding a cold air box around the filter so that you get air from outside into the intake. There are plenty of threads out there showing how to biuld one, just search for it.
If you didn't install an intake and the only thing you changed is moving the MAF and rotating it, you should just put it back the way it wasw, better to be safe then sorry.

I have a bonez intake installed in my car and my MAF is installed vertically(rotated90 degrees) andi haven't had a problem yet.

 

Hey, while we are on the topic of air flow meters, does anyone out there know of a air flow meter from a different car that can just plug in to ours that could give better flow? maybe upgrading from an NA MAF to a TII MAF? any input would help

 

Well I have installed an intake. I have all the pieces cut out for my cold-air box but haven't put it on since the car is down. It is running real hot, don't think from engine heat though. I will put the Air flow meter back normal & build my cold-air box though. Also my car battery was going dead ever damn minute basically, have any ideas what it could be. Brand new battery, alternator & terminals by the way. Only thing I can think of is a short somewhere, but the dead battery seems to go with the running hot. I have no idea now.

 

When u guys said that the AIRFLOW METER has to be in the exact stock position does that mean EXACTLY THAT? LIke exactly where it was when stocK?...or just that its just LEVELED somewhere else at least?

 

We mean that the top is still up, like it isn't rotated to make the side the top or upside down or anything. Because of the way that the pieces inside of the meter move, if you were to flip it on it's side, then gravity would effect the way that it lets or doesn't let air in. Someone earlier in the thread said that they found when they mounted the meter vertically(or on it's side) that you could potentially be running lean.

 

This might help a little. http://k2rd.freeservers.com/FC3S/PRO...INTAKE/afm.htm You might try it any way you want and see what happens although the general thought on this subject seems to say orient it in the stock position or flip it over 180 degrees. But Irv, above, seems to not have any problem with moving in another position, and he has his head screwed on right an most issues, so......its up to you.

 

Most of the pics I've seen of people's intakes who have doen the TID mod have the AFM facing the right side up, but at a slant, front to back ways (hope the makes sense) this seems like it would cause more problems then being rotated 90.

Anyone with a TID mod have any comments, did you think of someway to get around this?

 

The flapper type MAF can work in 2 positions with no ill side effects. from experiences. The stock position (with the hinge at the top) or on its side (with the hinge is on the side, like a door). The reason being is that it puts less load on the spring. Upside down it puts the weight of the flapper on the spring making it lose it springness. So lets say overtime you start to notice your idle maybe high due to the fact the flapper is now "sticking" due to spring which is in turn causing the ECU to recieve a higher than normal voltage drop causing it to think there is more air coming in .

 

Hey guys, I'm happy to report that after fixing the level of my AFM, my car runs smoother low-end now! Before I had sorta of a bit hesitation and jerking motion when accelerating, but that's TOTALLY GONE! My AFM was sitting about a 45 degree angle upwards and slightly tilted maybe another 10 degrees. Anyways, I got a smaller cone air filter with my custom 3" intake duct and managed to make the AFM sit perfectly levelled and straight and it works great!

 

Thats good man. But does anyone know what it can do not being level. You said it makes your car runs smoother. Is there anyway that it could make the car run hotter?