iceblue

I used the 4in foil strips they use to seal windows when you build houses. Dad had rolls of it left over from last house. It has like sticky tar on the back. I dry measured the strips. Then took a propane torch and heated the back side up making the tar all sticky and glue like. Then pressed it onto where I wanted it. It is very bendable crunchable and everything. Couple of seconds after it dries it is stuck onto the metal creating a seal. I did this over the oil cooler, all the sides and corners of the RAD and AC condenser to keep air from escaping.

RacerXtreme7

iTrader: (2)

Nice job, good luck and keep us updated.

1 thing I have noticed a LOT of is the stock fans going bad on our near 2 decade old cars. they still spin, but the clutch isn't locking hard enough allowing the fan to spin fast enough. I don't recall the preceedure, but I'm sure its not hard to find, on how to check if the fan clutch is performing properly. This could be a problem of yours?

FWIW, the vintage air fans are uber nice and DO pull enough air. There a bit pricey though.

~Mike............

NSXchink

while u all are debating about ur answers

my questions are

1) what "thing" blows the air when you put it on MAX and the AC on..
the radiator fan or the small fan near the oil cooler?

2) i have a fiero fan right now, and it's doing fine..
you all are debating which is better or equivalant, e-fan or stock fan.. so i'm wondering

later for safety measure should i go ahead and get a black magic fan, or should I go back to stock?

3) can anyone find out how many CFM a stocker pulls and how many CFM a Fiero fan pulls?

later on down the line when I do some upgrades if this is better than the stocker, im gonna probably get a Flex-a-lite Electric Fan FLX-180 3,300 CFM like Racerextreme7 said

iceblue

The blower fan under your dash.

On a S5 they have a small fan sometimes in front of the RAD between the RAD and the AC condenser. This fan has a thermo sensor in the back of the water pump housing. When this sensor triggers to hot the car feels the stock fan is not pulling enough air through the RAD and turns on it's small electric fan to help push more air through the RAD.

You have a S5 so get a water temp gauge and see what your temps are, most importantly under load. If they are fine then there is no need to change is there?

If it works why change it?

As far as I understand no one has ever messured it.

NSXchink

heeeeeeeeeeeere efan vs stocker

iceblue

The fan under your dash is what pushes the air through your AC vents to keep you cool or hot. Has nothing to do with cooling.

I have never seen a 10AE I have parts on my S4 to asume a Efan from factory, but no fan was in place. It was said it came stock on some S5's.

A S4 temp gauge should read 1/4th way up under proper runing conditions.

tie pilot

it sounds like this thread is about two different things.
1 - moving air across the radiator for engine cooling
2 - moving air across the A/C condenser for cabin cooling

does the FC even come with a fan to move air thru the A/C condenser, or does it rely solely on road speed? if there's not a fan, wouldn't it be WELL worth the effort of hooking up a little e-fan to keep the A/C cold in traffic?

NSXchink

read above

coldfire

iTrader: (1)

people just like to make threads confusing. i don't even know what is actually trying to be solved here.
why the hell are people mentioning the AC and heater BLOWER?? that fan does NOTHING for the temperature of your AC or temperature of your engine.

i always thought the stock electric fan was to help with the AC condensor.
and YES like i said, if you want to use an electric fan for the condensor, GO AHEAD. i'm sure anything will work fine.
one thing i'm not quite sure is if there is a seperate circuit for the stock e-fan than relates to the AC. i'm thinking yes...

RacerXtreme7

iTrader: (2)

OH MY GOD,

People really are clueless here. Not that is bad to not know things, and this IS the place to learn. But if you don't know what you’re talking about, you shouldn't post as if you do. Put a question mark after it to emphasize your not sure, and that your not stating fact.

AC explained: (really basically here)
1. The ac compressor compresses cool Freon gas, causing it to become hot, high-pressure Freon gas
2. This hot gas runs through a set of coils so it can dissipate its heat, and it condenses into a liquid. These coils are basically a radiator or heat exchanger and is called a CONDENSOR. Your condensor is placed directly in front of your engine cooling system RADIATOR and simply looks like another radiator in front of your coolant system radiator.
3. The Freon liquid runs through an expansion valve, and in the process it evaporates to become cold, low-pressure Freon gas
4. This cold gas runs through a set of coils that allow the gas to absorb heat and cool down the air inside your car. This set of coils is another heat exchanger/radiator and is located UNDER YOUR DASH. A fan blows air through this mini radiator under your dash and out your AC/heater vents. IT’S THE SAME FAN THAT BLOWS YOUR HEATER. The air that this fans blows draws air from the vents at the base of your windshield OR if you have the recirculate button pushed, it draws air from inside the car.

The air blowing out your vents in your dash has NOTHING to do with your radiator fan or air coming from the front of the car while moving.

Your stock fan WILL come on by it's self when the AC is on because the condensor that is directly in front of your radiator will be heating the air going through it, thus making the air getting to your radiator hotter, and your coolant system hotter. Also, this hot air leaving your radiator will be blowing on your fan putting more hot air on your stock fan clutch witch is thermo activated (so now it turns on automatically). Most modern cars that use a e-fan have the fan come on automatically when the AC button is switch on in anticipation of the more heat load that will be placed on your cooling system. It does not have a direct link to your cooling system, but as I said already, the AC condensor in front of your Rad will heat the air up before your radiator gets to use it.

I am in no way an AC pro, I'm just listing the absolute basics here.

To the original poster, if your engine temps are fine with your e-fan, don't worry about it and call it good. But if on a hot hot day you’re loading the hell out of your car (going up hills/mountains) keep an eye on your temp gauge. If it’s still ok, then you’re fine. Keep in mind everyone, when you run your AC system, it’s making your cooling system less effective. Also, the original poster....... if your engine temps are fine, but your AC isn't putting out enough cool air, then its most likely needs a re-charge. If it doesn't need a recharge and all other aspects of your AC system check ok, and its not blowing cool enough air, most likely your engine temps would be going up to, because both problems most likely are insufficient air flow (weak *** e-fan).

~Mike.............

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I'm not sure if there's anything that I could clear up. A 13B that makes 600 HP will make exactly the same heat at idle as a 13B that makes 200HP. An engine only produces it's rated HP (and maximum heat output) at WOT.

Then there's something wrong with your fan or fan clutch. Mazda tested these cars in every environment when they developed them, and the stock fan setup can easily handle high temps.


There's so much misinformation out there regarding the cooling system, and I don't know why. It's a very straightforward system to understand.