Akabane

i got my car on the 17th and changed my oil about 5 days after to 20-50w and when my car is real cold it doesn't rev up to 3000 is the viscosity to thick?

OC_

how cold is 'real cold?'

did you read the rcomended oil viscositys? theres one in the cars manual that shows what viscositys to use at what temp.

Wankel7

Is the car a turbo?

Scott 89t2

20w 50 is great for the summer.....

I woudln't use it under 50F or so though.

when you mean it doesn't rev to 3000 are you talking about the 10 sec startup? or you can't manualy rev it to 3000?

not having the 3000rpm startup is a good thing.... start it in gear to prevent it.

Akabane

the coldness im talking about is like 40's. and yeah the 10 rev up to 3000 i heard this car runs real hot so i decided to put some thick stuff i also don't know the recommendation im a real newb but im catching on and it's N/A. after the car heats up above the c line it runs good and stuff just when i first start it up

Akabane

the coldness im talking about is like 40's. and yeah the 10 rev up to 3000 i heard this car runs real hot so i decided to put some thick stuff i also don't know the recommendation im a real newb but im catching on and it's N/A. after the car heats up above the c line it runs good and stuff just when i first start it up

Akabane

oops computer lag hit the submit button twice sorry

reboot

Ouuuuu didnt know that..

Akabane

lol no i sure didn't but when its warming up its idle at 2k rpm and takes about 10- 15 mins to get down to like 1 or above. and this is in neutrail :P

wpgrexx

use a diffwerent weight oil. That is the cause. You probably aren't getting much oil flowing for those first ten minutes which equals no protection.

Try just 5w30 or atleast 10w30. If you are okay with synthetic, you can get a 5w50 which will give you great startup protection and also great protection at operating temps.

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

Or just touch the pedal. C'mon Simon, you knew that.

JonEQuest

Don't use synthetic unless you are going premix.

ddub

really? how come?

Icemark

5W oils should not be used in a Rotary unless it is seeing temps under 0F. There is not enough sheer strength and film thickness to protect the motor unless it is subfreezing cold.

Remember the first number in a multi weight is the viscosity cold. A 5 weight will not have any protection against the metal rubbing itself unless it is really really cold. Sure it will pump well, but it still is way too thin to protect the metal surfaces of the motor and not slide/escape by the seals.

For 30F and up 20W50 is much better, but if you are really concerned then 10W30 could also be used in temps below 80F (but above 0F)

Icemark

That should have read:

"Don't use a crappy synthetic, unless you are going premix"

as proven over and over and over in this and many other forums, better quality synthetic oils (like Redline, Neo, Royal Purple, Mobil1, Amsoil) are better than conventional oils to run in a Rotary engine.

Its the crappy synthetics like Valvoline, Havoline, Castrol Syntec, etc that you don't want to use.

The good synthetics have been proven over and over to burn cleaner than conventional oils, burn just as easy as conventional oils, and actually make more HP (typically only an extra 2HP or so) when used in a rotary engine.

The only (and I mean only) downside to useing Redline, Neo, Royal Purple, Mobil1, Amsoil brands of synthetics is the cost.

Rpeck

Woa there cowboy. That is nothing but opinion, and you have no factual basis to say that Mobil 1 Synthetic is any better than Castrol Syntec. Etc .. Etc. I have been running Castrol Syntec in every vehicle I own (except my 7) since it has been avalibile to the public. I have never had a problem. I run syntec in a motorcycle that makes more horsepower, and RPM's then a N/A does stock.

Put up some data sheets, or fact sheets ... or point out that there is no basis to your information then your own neandering thoughts.


-Robert

Icemark

Nope I am not gonna do it again. I have way way too many times. You can go search if you need the proof, or just go and look up Castrol's own data sheets and compare. Last I checked, the syntec had a ash level of 1.2% which you can compair to the less than .01% of Redline synthetic or the .85% of Castrols own GTX 20W50.

Castrol Syntec is one of the worst out there (of the synthetics) for ash (whats left after it is burned). Somthing that fact alone makes it unsuitible for a rotary engine. If you were not injecting it into the combustion chamber, I am sure it would be fine. But use in a rotary will result in higher deposits. That can not be mistaken.

Now toss into that mix the low amount of Zinc (as a used as an extreme pressure, anti- wear additive) and .095 % of Phosphor, and you have some other real problems as well. Zinc really should be at least .11%, but it is only .10 in Syntec (which means really you should avoid any long term use in any high reving motor as found in motorcycles or RX cars).

Now don't misunderstand me... the problem is only Castrol Syntec, not the conventional Castrol GTX oils (which burn radically cleaner).

projekt

he's specifically talking about the rotary due to its oil injection system

ddub

since oil is injected into the engine with the gas (the OMP i believe?) does that mean that if i use synthetic that SHOULD last longer, it will essentially run out over time since i am changing it less? so like, say every few months i should just check the oil and top it off maybe?

Rpeck

Thats what i was going to say ... but It would be nice to state that rather then to call them "crappy"

projekt

Icemark

Synthetics should be changed just as often as conventional oils, every 3k-5k miles (or every 3 months- which ever comes first).

See oil changes remove the acids and other byproducts that are created from using the engine.

Icemark

No, Actually I personally think Syntec is crappy for any high reving motor. Castrol GTX is much better.

Haven’t you seen that Castrol has reformulated the Syntec 3 times now, trying to bring down the things like phosphor and fix the deposit build up problems.

Heck 2 years ago, they threw out the whole thing and started fresh with new petroleum base stocks (instead of the vegetable stocks that all the better synthetics use).

andrew lohaus

wow so thats where synthetic oils come from, vegetables! now i know. i always wondered how they could call it "synthetic" when just about everything else synthetic in the world IS derived from petrolium. good info icemark. do you have any more info on how they actualy turn vegies into oil?

ddub

really? this is straight from the amsoil site for their synthetic products "Personal passenger vehicles with gasoline engines: drain oil at 25,000-mile or one-year intervals, whichever comes first.
Turbocharged gasoline engines: drain oil at intervals up to three times as long as those recommended by the engine manufacturer or at six-month intervals, whichever comes first."