Do you let your engine warm up?
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 286
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From: Racing Bear's Tepee
Well, mine is brought to operating temp, except a rare occasion, then she's driven slowly which about kills me :-) IIRC, my owner's manual suggest the same, but don't hold me to it and I know Mazda said so for the RX-8
'87/GXL/2+2
207,858 Mi/Engine Mods=0
Yep, I drove every one of 'em
'87/GXL/2+2
207,858 Mi/Engine Mods=0
Yep, I drove every one of 'em
I forget where I read it was better to drive right away, it was probably on another forum a while back, but I think it had something to do with burning excess fuel after start up. Either way, I think I will continue to warm my car up before driving.
I forget where I read it was better to drive right away, it was probably on another forum a while back, but I think it had something to do with burning excess fuel after start up. Either way, I think I will continue to warm my car up before driving.
I never go to wide open throttle until it's fully warmed up, that's not necessarily the temp gauge either, I wait until the idle bumps down to 750. The car just starts to feel right. I've gone WOT prematurely a few times before and I hear a high pitched metallic sound.
when i start my car it jumps to 3k rpm and stays there till i tap the gas then it drops in 750 idle. also what is operating temp alot of u guys say u wait till it gets to operating temp. how do i know when it gets there. i know this is a dumb question but please coop with me.
Originally posted by Black13B
2 words.
Carbon Buildup.
2 words.
Carbon Buildup.
If you can get carbon build up by letting it idle too long, IMO it would take just one redline push to rid all the newly formed deposits.
Originally posted by Ni5mo180SX
Im not quite sure about that one.
Im not quite sure about that one.
That is originally what Santiago stated..

If you can get carbon build up by letting it idle too long, IMO it would take just one redline push to rid all the newly formed deposits.
I cleaned carbon off someone's rotor when it coughed up an apex seal (I was given the internals of the motor). There was so much carbon built up, I could only get it all off with an electric wire wheel. Even then it actually took me a little while.
And were talking about an engine that is 15 years old, let alone 30.
Last edited by Black13B; Sep 28, 2003 at 06:57 PM.
Originally posted by Black13B
You don't think there would be alot of carbon buildup if you left a rotary engine (stock MOP - Burning 4 Stroke!!!) idling at 750 RPMs for 30 years?!
That is originally what Santiago stated..
Carbon will build up slowly (especially when burning 4 stroke oil) when left idling for long periods of time. By long periods, I mean 30 minutes or more at a time. Wouldn't surprise me if it was less than that.
I cleaned carbon off someone's rotor when it coughed up an apex seal (I was given the internals of the motor). There was so much carbon built up, I could only get it all off with an electric wire wheel. Even then it actually took me a little while.
And were talking about an engine that is 15 years old, let alone 30.
You don't think there would be alot of carbon buildup if you left a rotary engine (stock MOP - Burning 4 Stroke!!!) idling at 750 RPMs for 30 years?!
That is originally what Santiago stated..

Carbon will build up slowly (especially when burning 4 stroke oil) when left idling for long periods of time. By long periods, I mean 30 minutes or more at a time. Wouldn't surprise me if it was less than that.
I cleaned carbon off someone's rotor when it coughed up an apex seal (I was given the internals of the motor). There was so much carbon built up, I could only get it all off with an electric wire wheel. Even then it actually took me a little while.
And were talking about an engine that is 15 years old, let alone 30.
Even if carbon does build for 30mins, and lets say for the sake of argument that its less, 20 mins, 15 mins, we're talking in the range of about 10 mins max.
And assuming that winding the engine out does help with removal of carbon, i think it'd be a fair assumption to figure that the newly formed carbon from the recent idling is easier removed then most.
I start my car and tap the gas till I get it to about 2300 and hold it there for about two minutes, and then slowly bring it down. Then if she is idling fine I'll start driving, going easy below 3 until she reaches operating temp. But my car is different, if I don't do what's stated above she won't hold idle, she'll just die.
- Steiner
- Steiner
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
In the past, there have been alot of threads on warmups. Lots of info available.
However, I will repeat what I have posted in the other threads.
There is no reason for long warmups. Start the car, let it idle 30 seconds, and then drive easily until it comes up to temperature. Long idle periods do nothing but waste gas, pollute, and are bad for the engine and emissions systems. Just don't beat on the car until the temp guage is in it's normal position.
However, I will repeat what I have posted in the other threads.
There is no reason for long warmups. Start the car, let it idle 30 seconds, and then drive easily until it comes up to temperature. Long idle periods do nothing but waste gas, pollute, and are bad for the engine and emissions systems. Just don't beat on the car until the temp guage is in it's normal position.
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