Ok. I know how to do this on an s4- there is just a plug on the bottom of the radiator that you unhook, and thats it.
BUT- On my s5, there is no such sensor!
I don't have cats, and I really hate having the engine rev to 3000 as soon as you start it, untill you tap the gas. It's a pain, not to mention not-so-good on the cold engine!!
Any way to disable this on an s5?
Thanks

 

Just start the car in gear, then go about your merry way.

 

I have the clutch disabled too... fro my remote starter. This is where it's annoying- to hear you car wind out like an indy car with cold oil when you are in the house.
Also- when working on the car, and you just want to reach in the window and start the car for a second... WHHOOOMMM!! It sucks.

 

If you put it in 1st gear and start it won't do that. There is a way to permanently remove it but I don't know how...

 

I've never had an aswer to this. try unpluging the AWS it will be alot lower. but you might get a check engine light.

 

Ok. If the water temp sw on the radiator is disabled(86-88) you disable too many other things like the function of the switching solenoid, relief solenoid, acv etc. The starting the car and immediatly bliping the throttle seems to be the less disruptive. I remote started my car with the hood up and just tickled the tps(not the linkage)plunger, and the high rpm stopped. So its the signal from the tps that makes this method work. Starting in gear works. You are ridding the ECU of a ground signal that you get from the transmission switch. In gear = ground signal. Out of gear..no ground signal. So for a fellow who is doing a remote start from the engine or wants to just reach in the window and start the car, I think disconnecting the neutral switch would fit you to a tee. There is one small problem with this though. When the car is cold, the idle may do a small rev up and down cycle till it gets hot. Just a couple hundred up and down til hot. Some people have written on this forum saying their car never does the 3000 rpm for 17 seconds startup cycle. I think its due to their neutral switch being bad. No ground signal equals no 3000rpm for 17 seconds. All the above was made up from past experiences. Not written in any manual that I have ever read. Cost nadda to disconnect the neutral sw on the right hand side of the transmission to give it a try. I know of no other after effects of doing this other than what is written above. Probably is something else.

 

Disabling the neutral switch turns out to be a bad idea. The 3000 rpm for 17 seconds will never happen again, and the acv, swithching and relief solenoids remain functional, but there is a drawback. Where I had a 750 rpm idle prior to disabling the neutral switch, I now have two hundred less at idle i.e. 550 rpm. Seems the ECU decides to cutback on fuel or ???? if the neutral sw is not giving a ground to the ECU. So tapping the accelerator pedal at startup is the best way to go ot disable it.

 

haha you play with cars too much

what about upluging the plug on the AWS?? does that give you a light? I'm sure that would get rid of it. if it does give you a light you could just leave the harness pluged in but block off where it goes into the engine. the ecu will open and close it so it'll stay happy but no air will get into the engine.

 

On a 86-88 the air bypass solenoid valve (aws for those with newer cars) will not kill the 17 second, 3000 rpm start up. Been there, done that. All that will do is lessen the rpm to about 2400 rpm instead of 3000. The air bypass solenoid works in conjunction with the bac to produce the high rpm. Reason I know is that I broke the wires at the air bypass solenoid valve and to my surprise, the next morning I had the seventeen second high rpm startup. Disconnected the bac and no high rpm. I know that tapping the pedal or fingering the tps plunger will do it in, but the fellow above wanted to just reach in the window and start the car without producing the high rpm. Breaking the neutral circuit to the ecu disables it, but produced the drop of 200 rpm at idle also. And I broke a wire to the neutral connector that I had to fix to get back to square one.