TristanTII

My TII idles rough when warm, this weekend I'm going to go through it,a nd try to fix this.

If I can't find what's wrong to readjust or replace I supposed I could always just disable the thermoWax, and set it so the car always idles as if cold. That would presumebaly fix my problem.

But my questioin is, am I doing any real damamge?

I'd assume I probably couldn't pass emissions lie this, I'll probably foul my spark plugs somewhat faster then usual, and my gas mileage will probably go down. But I'd rather deal with all that then stalling every once in awhile.

anything else that might go wrong?

hypntyz7

Doesnt work like this. IF you remove the cold start/idle stuff, it will not idle when COLD, but will idle the same when warm(assuming the cold idle stuff worked). IF its idlign way high when warm and wont come down, this might be the right thing to do. Just means that it'll be closer to a carbureted engine...cold natured. Should still start, just wont wanna stay running until its warm.

TristanTII

What I'm thinking of doing is not removing the thermo wax, but somehow fixing it so that it doesn't warm up, or doesn't act as if it warms up. I haven't really gotten in there and thought of any ideas on how to do this yet, but an example would be to remove the coolant lines to the thermowax (I don't plan on doing this, it would probably be a pretty bad idea) so that the coolant woulnd't warm up the wax, and the warm idle would never kick in.

I'm thinking along the lines of removing the wax and replacing it with a bar that is the same size as the cool state of the wax.

good idea? certain death?

hypntyz7

Ah, I see more what you mean. It still wont work like you want. IT would only result in a high warm idle. The thermowax only holds the throttle open until it heats up, the same effect as holding your foot on the pedal, it just does it for you automatically. Sometimes when cold engines dont want to hold an idle, so the thermowax holds it for you until it warms up and can hold its own idle.

IF you removed the coolant lines, it would hold the throttle open ALL the time. SO youd always have a 1500-2000 idle. IF thats what youre after, I can tell youa couple of ways to get that which are alot easier.

There are other sensors that the ecu looks at to determine idle speed and richness, including the thermo switch on the radiator(3000rm warmup) and the water thermo switch on the back of the water pump housing, which etermines the ecu "mode" warm or cold, righ or normal. I once had an 88 SE that would never really give much power, but showed good comression. After running a straight exhaust, it still had little power. I also noticed it never really warmed up more than 1mm over the C line. Come to find out there was no thermostat in it. I installed one, which allowed it to reach operating temperature, and the car regained its power. IT ad been in "cold" mode and ran really rich.

TristanTII

What would be an easy way to keep the throttle on a little when I'm idling. All my idle problems go away with just a little throttle.

thanks

hypntyz7

Find the throttle cable where it attatches to the intake manifold. There are 2 12mm nuts holding it in position. Loosen one and tighten the other, this opens or closes the throttle just a little bit. ITs not hte best way, but its the easiest. Under the intercooler(if you wanna take it off) there is a throttle stop screw with an 8mm stop nut around it, this is the "proper" way to raise idle, aside from the BAC adjustment which doesnt always work. There is a flathead screw inside the BAC valve, you hav to use a jumper wire to bridge the initial set coupler when adjusting it.