schctrg

Hey I was wondering if i could disable the fuel pump by removing the EGI Fuse? I want to see this stops my car from flooding because i'm not sure if its flooding w/ coolant or fuel. To lazy to install a switch can i just remove the fuse while the car is running until it stalls so i can try to start it up again and see if it smokes? is it safe to do? any consequences?

HAILERS

Pull either EGI and the engine will die right now if not sooner. AND the fuel rail will still be pressurized to approx 39psi for ???? thirty minutes or so (it'll gradually disapate from 39psi to zip psi.

You could pull the Circuit Opening Relay above the steering wheel shaft and that would kill just the fuel. Yellow relay base will ID it.

Or pull the fuel pump connector apart and that will kill fuel only. You might rev the engine to ?? 2-3 grand and have someone pull the plug apart while you do that. Then the fuel pressure will drop down to pretty much nothing at all.

schctrg

ok so if i pulled the fuse, will the car still flood(due to the residual pressure) if the injectors are leaking? would it work if i rev the engine and pull the fuse? would that depressurize the line so i can start it up and see if it smokes? also will i need to prim the fuel line so it will start when i throw the fuses back in.

MOBEONER

iTrader: (18)

if u pull the fuse the car will die right away.by pulling the egi fuse you disable all four injectors

HAILERS

If you have a seirs four car, like it says in your Profile, then you have two EGI fuse.

If you pull the EGI INJ fuse, you kill the power to the coils and the injectors and the car dies. The fuel rail maintains 39 psi for at least thirty minutes if the checkvalves are working in the fuel circuit.

If you pull the EGI Comp fuse, you kill the power to the ECU. Now you have no output from the ECU and the coils die and injectors stop injecting and the engine stops running......and the fuel rails are still pressurized.

Pull the fuel pump connector and then engine still runs til it runs out of fuel/pressure. If you are reving the engine as you do that, then the rail will almost completly depressurize. Floor the pedal as the other person pulls the plug apart.

Heres why things are not going to work out. You do the above and then go to Start. When you go to Start, it takes approx 2 seconds or LESS for the rail to repressurize to 39psi.

You don't need to prime the fuel rails. On a normal car that sits overnight, you go and start it. Before you started it it had zippity fuel pressure in the rails. Holding the key to START is what causes the fuel rails to pressurize. Holding the key to START sends power to the Circuit Opening Relay and that relay powers up the fuel pump anytime the key is HELD to START. Let go of the key and if the engine did not start, the pump will run no more.

Do this. Run the engine and rev it to three grand. Then have someone pull the fuel pump plug off. At the very same time floor the pedal til the engine stops. Now there will be no or very little fuel pressure in the line. Now go to the engine and pull off the fuel feed line (fwd of the two fuel lines). Residual pressure will be let out. Then put that line back on. NOW you know there is no pressure in the line. Now let it sit for a hour or so or overnight. Then go start the car with everything connected back up. Look for whatever your looking for. No priming needed.

Again, pulling either EGI fuse will not depressurize the fuel rails. It'll just turn the engine off and leave the rails pressurized.

Or don't wait an hour or overnight after pulling the hose off. Just go start the car. It should not flood due to injector leakage. There wasn't enough time for the injectors to leak fuel to cause flooding imho.

What's the deal anyway? Having flooding problems? Does the flood happen in the morning on first start or later in the day?

I wish you knew how to depin a wire from a ECU plug.

schctrg

Heres the deal, I start up my car and it wants to stall, smokes a while(smells really gassy) and then runs perfectly fine. I've had to de-flood my car before because i kept it in storage for at least 6 months and ever since its been smokey at every start-up. I don't seem to be losing coolant either. oil level stays the same. So I figure if i could manage to isolate the possibility that its a leaky injector then i can really see if it is actually coolant leaking in whenever i shut off the car. I am going to do another pressure test on the cooling system and perhaps this time let it sit over night and see if the pressure holds. Any tips? could it be old spark plugs? Btw after i let the car sit over night the smoke isnt as thick as if i were to turn it off after driving it and restarting it after about 45 mins to an hour of letting it sit. Thanks for your continuous help.

HAILERS

No real ideas here. Mabe try the deal where your engine is running and then pull the plug off the pump (plug behind the left rear strut tower under the carpet) and at the same time floor the pedal.

If you pull the plug while at high revs and floor the pedal the fuel pressure should drop to almost zip. Then wait thirty minutes and start it again. The injectors can't leak is there's no fuel pressure in the rail or at least not as much.

Or instead of the fuel pump plug pull the Circuit Opening Relay while at high revs, and then floor the pedal as you pull the relay.

Right after you do one of the above, you might pull the fuel pressure line off AT the engine and let any remaining pressure bleed off. Just in case all the pressure didn't fall during the above procedures. Then you might start right back up.......or wait a given amount of time and start up again. Your choice.

At one time I had a fuel cut switch and used it to kill the engine. Well one day I had a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel lines, and I noticed if I just flipped the switch to off, the engine died but I still had fuel pressure in the rail. I found I could almost completly drain the pressure if I held the revs to three grand and then switched the cut switch to off as I floored the pedal at the same time, almost all the rail pressure would disappear.

I don't use that setup anymore.

Other than that the only other option is to pull the dynamic chamber off, pull the fuel rails off one at a time. Then zip tie the injectors to the rails so they won't blow off, and then jumper the yellow fuel pump check connector and turn the key to just ON. Fuel pump runs and pressurizes the rails and you stare at the injectors to see if they drip/leak.

Usually the smoke will smell sweet if you have anti freeze in the radiator and the anti freeze is leaking into the rotor chambers. Smoke could also be oil leaking by the oil control rings on the rotor into the chamber. But if this was so, to me it would seem that the engine would smoke a lot more after sitting overnight, and that isn't your case.

Some recommend looking at the color of the smoke to tell what it is. I never could do that for some reason. I have deflooded a car where it was severly flooded and it smoke white smoke big time. Then again I've started up a number or rebuilds that smoke Real big time (rebuild lubricant in the chambers like vaseline and motor oil) and the smoke always seemed to be white smoke also. So colors don't mean a lot to me, just everybody else it seems.

You might try burning off all the old gas and put new gas in to see it that helps. Plus you coolant leakage test you mentioned.

schctrg

I personally have a really hard time identifying what kind of smoke I am blowing. I'll try pulling the plug in the rear tower plus the rev and see what happens. Thanks a lot hailers. I'll post afterwardss and share what happens.

HAILERS

You won't have time to pull the plug.........jump back in and rev the engine. You'll need some at the plug ready to pull it off as you rev the engine high and then pedal to the floor. Just FYI if you were considering doing it by yourself.