I just purchased a 88 GXL and for some stupid reason I for got to check the condition of all fluids before buying it. The owner made me confident that he took real good care of the car and I guess because of that I got too excited and bought the car fast. Anyways on the highway driving home I suddenly lost all power. My revs start dropping no matter how much gas I give it. I ended up pulling to the side of the road, opened the hood and the first thing I did was check for oil and there was not a single drip on the dip stick. I had my buddy go and drive to get some oil while I waited I also checked the condition the spark plugs they were black and had oil on them so I replaced them at the same time. When I went to go start the car it was hard to fire but eventually started right up. I had to hold the rpms up or else it would die. With the rpms up it sounds normal but it just cant idle. Some thing that scared me too is the dipstick flying out and smoke coming out from where the dip stick goes. I know most likely I'm looking at doing a rebuild but since I'm new to RX-7's I'd like to know if anyone else has experience this and what they had to say.

Sorry for the long post, just trying to be as specific as possible. I know the mistake I made of not checking fluids and the overall car and I feel stupid for it so I'd appreciate it if all the flamers didn't flame me. I'm already feeling bad as it is.

Cliffs: Tried to start car, wont idle with out me having to feather the gas, Dip stick pops out with a stream of smoke coming from where the dipstick would be.

 

Start off by doing a compression test, even though it sounds more like a spun bearing to me.

Do you feel any odd vibrations through the clutch pedal? Like a pulsing that follows RPM?

How much oil did you have to add?

 

Alright, I'll do a compression test as soon as I can get one. The entire incident I didn't notice or feel any vibrations through the clutch pedal. I had to add 3 1/2 quarts before the dipstick read mid level.

 

the no idle sounds more like a vacuum problem to me. if it idled fine before you were tinkering around with it, i would suspect that you knocked a vacuum line off or cracked a hardened vacum line.. i would check all connectors as well in the general area that you were messing with and make sure you dodnt knock any loose..

 

The only area I was working in was where the spark plugs and oil filler cap would be located. It's dark out right now so I'll wait till tomorrow to check on it. What concerns me the most is the dipstick popping/flying out of the tube along with a stream of smoke puffing out from where the dip stick would be. It was idling fine before, a little on the high side(1200-1300). I'll fallow up with checking for vacuum leaks.

Appreciate the advice guys.

 

It sounds like your PCV / emissions got messed with, and the "crankcase" isn't vented properly.


-Ted

 

I just went outside and I noticed hose missing from here. Don't know what it connects to but it's located on the bellhousing.



The owner told me that this plug was for a diagnostics readings, I don't how sure he is so I thought I should ask here.



Heres a few more pictures in case theres something you guys spot thats off please tell me.

 

There should be a fitting at the base of the oil filler tube - can you take a pic of that?
Trace any fittings off the oil filler tube - can you tell us where they go?

I noticed your bypass cap on the thermostat cover is plugged - do you have a bypass on the radiator?
Can you take pics of any caps on the radiator?

That first pic...
If you're talking about that shiny thing in the middle of the pic, it's for the clutch slave cylinder bleed valve - it's normal not to have anything connected to it.


-Ted

 

Hey that engine is clean! In your first pic, you are referring to the clutch bleeder screw. It doesn't have hose, but you should go and get a cap for it! Good luck!

 

That green 3 prong connector *is* for diagnostics. We use it for TPS adjustment with the lights, or most of us just use a multimeter on the TPS connector in front of the TB to check resistance.

The open nipple looking thing on your bell housing is the clutch slave cylinder bleeder valve..

 

Thanks for letting me know. Previous owner said I may have to bleed the clutch since it gets spongy at times, but thats off topic.

Thanks for the compliment. Yea the whole car is pretty clean but as far as the interior goes, it's filthy. I spent 2 hours Yesterday vacuuming and cleaning it up.

As for the pics, there is a hose on the radiator that I believe goes to the coolant overflow tank. I couldn't really get a shot of the base of the oil filler. The picture I took may not be much help but I'll see if I can get a better shot. I have to get to class so I'll report back with what I find later.

Thanks for helping me out Ted




This is the same hose thats connected to the radiator, I'm just showing where it goes.





This next pic may not help, I'll get a better pic when I get back home.

 

Okay, the fitting at the base of the oil filler neck looks like it's connected correctly - the hose runs from that fitting to that black UFO looking thing right above.
The UFO thing is called a "purge valve", and it's for emissions.
I still have my suspicion that the "PCV" system is not working correctly.
The pics show that vacuum hoses were replaced, and having just one connected wrong will explain the jumping dipstick.

Since Stanello already mentioned it, do a compression test.
Excessive blow-by will explain the excessive pressure the the crankcase and causing the dipstick to pop.
As a quick test, check the color of the oil.
If the oil was changed recently, it should not be BLACK.
If the oil is BLACK, do another oil change and then check back in a couple weeks.
If there is excessive blow-by, the oil will change BLACK very quickly.

The radiator bypass looks okay.
You're running an aftermarket OEM replacement copper rad that has that funky bypass.

Have you asked the previous owner about the dipstick problem?
Is the previous owner on here?


-Ted

 

I'm relying on my friend to get me a compression tester so I wont be able to get readings right now. The car had no oil when it died, the previous owner never filled it up when it was low. I put 3 1/2 quarts new oil yesterday and the best I can do was to get it idling with my foot on the pedal releasing the pedal would cause it to stall. I just checked right now and the oil is already starting to get dark(carbon looking caramel color). I only tried starting it twice and had it run 10 seconds each time. Unless the motor oil in there was already really dirty to begin with, that could be the cause for the new oil looking already dirty.

I'm sure the previous owner isn't on these forums. He only owned the car for a month, doing a good deed purchasing it off the first owner which was his buddy who really needed the car sold. Previous owner won't even pick up his phone. Car has 104,000 miles