diff mount
03-15-04, 03:37 PM
#1
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diff mount
Well, over the weekend I decided to tackle the dreaded diff mount because that SOB was getting on my nerves.
I bought a Mazdaspeed mount since it is stronger and the unsprung 6 puck and hard launches will not make the stock one last too long.
The whole job wasn't as hard as people say. It took me about 2 hours and this was my first time at it.
I read some posts about it and people make it seem harder than it is or take off things that wasn't necessary. Anyway, for those who want to tackle it I'll run down what to do while it's still fresh in my head:
First, get a 6 pack (beer or soda).
Get the rear up on stands.
Get a floor jack on the subframe and take off the 21mm and 14mm subframe bracket. Also loosen the 2 17mm nut at near the center but don't take it off. Just loosen it off near the end. Take off the sub link bolt.
Now lower the subframe as it should drop enough for you to get to all the bolts. Have the floor jack under the subframe for safety and make sure you block the front wheels well (always think safety first).
If you have a long ( 1/2" 2 foot extension) you can get to the top 2 bolts from the outside since when the subframe drops enough, the 2 bolts are accessible and MUCH easier to unbolt since there isn't much room under there. When the bolts and nuts are off, lift up the drive shaft by hand , pull out the diff mount and curse Mazda for the bonehead design and throw that POS as far as you can.
Installing is the reverse but you need to raise the subframe to seat the 2 bolts then tighten it down. This cannot be done from the outside since when the subframe is raised, the 2 bolts are not accessible.
That's it.
This was done with no lift as some people say you need.
I bought a Mazdaspeed mount since it is stronger and the unsprung 6 puck and hard launches will not make the stock one last too long.
The whole job wasn't as hard as people say. It took me about 2 hours and this was my first time at it.
I read some posts about it and people make it seem harder than it is or take off things that wasn't necessary. Anyway, for those who want to tackle it I'll run down what to do while it's still fresh in my head:
First, get a 6 pack (beer or soda).
Get the rear up on stands.
Get a floor jack on the subframe and take off the 21mm and 14mm subframe bracket. Also loosen the 2 17mm nut at near the center but don't take it off. Just loosen it off near the end. Take off the sub link bolt.
Now lower the subframe as it should drop enough for you to get to all the bolts. Have the floor jack under the subframe for safety and make sure you block the front wheels well (always think safety first).
If you have a long ( 1/2" 2 foot extension) you can get to the top 2 bolts from the outside since when the subframe drops enough, the 2 bolts are accessible and MUCH easier to unbolt since there isn't much room under there. When the bolts and nuts are off, lift up the drive shaft by hand , pull out the diff mount and curse Mazda for the bonehead design and throw that POS as far as you can.
Installing is the reverse but you need to raise the subframe to seat the 2 bolts then tighten it down. This cannot be done from the outside since when the subframe is raised, the 2 bolts are not accessible.
That's it.
This was done with no lift as some people say you need.
03-15-04, 03:44 PM
#2
Yep, it isnt as hard as some people make it out to be. I personally prefer to just drop the whole subframe and drag it out. It is a few more things to unbolt (sway bar endlinks, caliper, and driveshaft) but it eliminates having to putz around underneath the car. Youll want to have an extra set of hands getting it back up if you go this route though. Either way, good job. 
03-15-04, 03:58 PM
#3
Not hard but still a bitch because you have to pull that **** apart and it take a while.
BTW be careful. I tightened down the bolts on the mount as best I could at the time and about 3 months later the mount is self on the subframe cracked and ripped open.
I had to weld a new piece of metal in for it to mount to.
The Diff mount stayed on like a beats though! It went through a couple drag launches.
BTW be careful. I tightened down the bolts on the mount as best I could at the time and about 3 months later the mount is self on the subframe cracked and ripped open.
I had to weld a new piece of metal in for it to mount to.
The Diff mount stayed on like a beats though! It went through a couple drag launches.
03-15-04, 04:07 PM
#4
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Air tools are best for projects like this especially the suspension area.
The 21mm subframe nut might be torqued really tight so I suggest you get an extension or a breaker bar. That's the only ones that was somewhat hard to take off. All others were easy with 1/2" ratchet.
The 21mm subframe nut might be torqued really tight so I suggest you get an extension or a breaker bar. That's the only ones that was somewhat hard to take off. All others were easy with 1/2" ratchet.
03-15-04, 04:46 PM
#5
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It's a slight PITA to lower the subframe & differential down evenly 4-6 inches to do the swap & have room to tighten those bolts to 5000ft-lbs or whatever they were. I used LOTS & LOTS of jack stands, boards to hold the diff, and a pry-board to push up on the sub-link & subframe mounts to push it up evenly.
If you don't push the diff & subframe up evenly you'll never get the hanging down body bolts to line up correctly with the holes in the subframe & diff.
Did you also change the differential & subframe bushings? Mine seemed fine with 125K, so I didn't even bother. I did replace that huge subframe-diff bushing, but it wasn't really necessary as my old one is just fine.
If you don't push the diff & subframe up evenly you'll never get the hanging down body bolts to line up correctly with the holes in the subframe & diff.
Did you also change the differential & subframe bushings? Mine seemed fine with 125K, so I didn't even bother. I did replace that huge subframe-diff bushing, but it wasn't really necessary as my old one is just fine.
Last edited by vaughnc; 03-15-04 at 04:49 PM.
03-15-04, 06:53 PM
#6
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Originally posted by vaughnc
Did you also change the differential & subframe bushings? Mine seemed fine with 125K, so I didn't even bother. I did replace that huge subframe-diff bushing, but it wasn't really necessary as my old one is just fine.
Did you also change the differential & subframe bushings? Mine seemed fine with 125K, so I didn't even bother. I did replace that huge subframe-diff bushing, but it wasn't really necessary as my old one is just fine.
As for the subframe bolts at the ends. If you drop it too far down, you *might* have issues about it aligning .
I had a floor jack on the subframe and dropped it down but enough so that the bolt was still in the subframe shaft. Everything went up as it came down .
For some, it might be a good idea to loosen the 21mm nut but still have it threaded in case it drops out of the shaft.