puppyslaughter

hey guys,
i am currently having a prob. with the T2 diff i just put in my GXL. now let me tell you a little bit of history on this diff. so i got the diff from a guy who claimed its was a "jspec" diff. personally i didnt really care if the diff was "jspec" as long as it was LSD and hopefully a 4.10 ratio. ok so back to the point. we first put it in the car and had all sorts of clattering in the rear when you would shift or go around a tight corner. so we assumed that said diff was so bad *** that it was popping out of the front mount. so we installed the competion front mount. this seemed to work fine however, in a tight corrner the rear end seemed to shift. (the fine people at mazdatrix informed me this was just the rear steering). other than that it seemed to work fine. untill the next day and then the clattering was back,(not when i shift though) this leads me to belive that it is either the stock diff ear mounts or that something is messed up on the inside of the diff.

ok so here is where the real question comes in. if a diff was strickly set up for drag would it bitch and moan around corrners? i dont know anything about diff internals nor did i remove the cover and look inside, could the diff be bad? and if so wouldnt there be metal in the 90W?
if you guys can help it would be great
thanks,
jeff

Icemark

chunky tires sounds if it is a a lock diff, and the DTSS could be kicking in if the diff is locked up.

puppyslaughter

ok exactly what does that mean and what would i do in order to fix it?

Icemark

Fix the differntial

puppyslaughter

yeah that is what im tring to do.
im sorry i think you might have to break it down to me like im 5yrs old.
i no hardly anything about diffs so please bear with me.

so lets say i drop the diff and crack open the case what exactly am i looking for to fix. would it be a chiped tooth or a bad clutch plate?