Dies at idle?? question before buying.
#1
Dies at idle?? question before buying.
okay well theres a kid in my school with what look to be an s4. the body and interior is sweet, but he said when its cold out or he just needs to get in and go it dies on him. i stood there when he started it up today and it died on him twice(while in gear) then he put it in neutral and the accelerated start up kicked in.
now is this normal to die out like that? or what signs are these showing. he wants like 2500, and for that price i might be able to find a decent s5 instead.
i could only think of seals going, leaky injectors, and he said he replaced the spark plugs on it recently.
also how much are compression testers? i think i might check that too before i go get it :P
now is this normal to die out like that? or what signs are these showing. he wants like 2500, and for that price i might be able to find a decent s5 instead.
i could only think of seals going, leaky injectors, and he said he replaced the spark plugs on it recently.
also how much are compression testers? i think i might check that too before i go get it :P
#2
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: May 2006
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hmm leaky injectors, low compression, sounds right . but if your in doubt i would not buy it, especially if it's been owned buy a young kid who has most likely beat the crap out of it. you can't afford a real mazda comp tester there like a grand. you can do the basic test with a standard piston compression tester you just need to remove the little 2 way valve in it.
if the motor is bad your looking at 1500-2500 for a new one think of it like that. also seeing as your a student do you really think you can handle maintenance on it?
if the motor is bad your looking at 1500-2500 for a new one think of it like that. also seeing as your a student do you really think you can handle maintenance on it?
#3
Your Girl Wants Me
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hmm leaky injectors, low compression, sounds right . but if your in doubt i would not buy it, especially if it's been owned buy a young kid who has most likely beat the crap out of it. you can't afford a real mazda comp tester there like a grand. you can do the basic test with a standard piston compression tester you just need to remove the little 2 way valve in it.
if the motor is bad your looking at 1500-2500 for a new one think of it like that. also seeing as your a student do you really think you can handle maintenance on it?
if the motor is bad your looking at 1500-2500 for a new one think of it like that. also seeing as your a student do you really think you can handle maintenance on it?
#4
thats why im looking at an FC, is because the maintenance isnt as bad as an FD...
im pretty sure i can handle the maintenance, and i go here almost everyday to read up and look at close sales.
i think ill pick up a compression tester from like pep boys and check the engine. theres another s5 around here tahts an automatic but i reallllly dont wnat to do a conversion or anything like that.
115+=new
100-115=good
90-100=avg
80 below= bad right?
im pretty sure i can handle the maintenance, and i go here almost everyday to read up and look at close sales.
i think ill pick up a compression tester from like pep boys and check the engine. theres another s5 around here tahts an automatic but i reallllly dont wnat to do a conversion or anything like that.
115+=new
100-115=good
90-100=avg
80 below= bad right?
#5
i'll blow YOUR valve off
Join Date: May 2004
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Don't get the automatic, lol.
If it compresses well, think about things like a kid fucked with his idle adjust screw, the car can't breathe, he read about premixing and put 2 cycle in his gas tank, or any of the other 10,000 things that could happen.
If it compresses well, think about things like a kid fucked with his idle adjust screw, the car can't breathe, he read about premixing and put 2 cycle in his gas tank, or any of the other 10,000 things that could happen.
#7
Red Rotary Rocket
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Syracuse NY
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its just cold.....keep ur foot on the petal at 1500 rpms for a minute or 2 and she'll idle.....at least thats what mine does.
u should never just hop in a car and drive it anyway....especailly these cars
u should never just hop in a car and drive it anyway....especailly these cars
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#8
Jpk3200
Join Date: Oct 2006
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As long as you try to stay below 3000 until it's warmed up, there shouldn't be any problems. Otherwise, you are just wasting gas. All engines, piston and rotary, are engineered to be driven immediately after startup. Just make sure you shave some lead off your foot for the first 5-10 minutes.
#9
anyone elses thoughts on what could be causing it to die on start up as said in my first post?
oh and to clear it up. when he started it up the third time,he put it in neutral and the accelerated start up kicked in, and it jumped RIGHT up to 3 thousand.
also no smoke at all when he started it up.
oh and to clear it up. when he started it up the third time,he put it in neutral and the accelerated start up kicked in, and it jumped RIGHT up to 3 thousand.
also no smoke at all when he started it up.
#10
Mazda Tech
iTrader: (4)
Mazda fuel injectors are bulletproof they DO NOT LEAK. Only the injector seals leak. Injectors never leak and cause flooding its low compression.
Do not buy this it will be nothing but problems for you, buy an s5 from somebody else thats run and drive no problems. You'll thank yourself.
Do not buy this it will be nothing but problems for you, buy an s5 from somebody else thats run and drive no problems. You'll thank yourself.
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