Alright, so I was driving down the highway then I notice that it starts to get chunky sounding like a WRX, so I stop at the turnoff light to my house and it really starts to vibrate/become chunky and barely holds idle, get to my house, turn it off, take a look around, try to start it up again and it takes 10 secs or more to finally crank and still sounds and feels like ****. Revs fine up past 3-4 thousand and still idles but...What happened?

 

Compression test...

 

Werd. If you wanna do it the poor man's way, pull a plug and crank, if instead of some quick chugs you get a different sound, you know there is a definite problem...

 

I thought you cant idle if you are on one rotor? Atleast thats what someone told me.

 

You can idle, it just wont idle well.

 

Got a vid

http://s40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...t=MVI_0596.flv

 

My car idles on one rotor...

 

Its either blown, fouled plugs, or a primary injector stuck closed.

So yeah, start with a compression test. It's running on 1 rotor in that vid.

 

let us know what you come up with on the compression test. do you know how to perform a compression test with a standard made for piston engine type testers? if not, post back and i'll tell you how or someone here will.

 

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...ion_check.html

 

32psi on the front rotor -_-

 

sorry to hear that

 

geez, and you posted such beautiful pictures of your car too..

T2 swap it!

 

T2/V8 swap it!!

haha sorry i dont usually push swaps, but it just makes more sense in the end then to rebuild it, when u could use that money to go turbo/other methods of powering your fc. and no we are not here to debate v8 swaps.

 

a new 13B for your car would be an excellent choice, whether it be turbo or not. if you love the car, keep it and rebuild it.