Did this 13BT go bad on me?
Originally posted by T2 Tsunami
That would be great...I have all day Friday and Saturday during the day. I still need to try to pull it in gear first.
That would be great...I have all day Friday and Saturday during the day. I still need to try to pull it in gear first.
Well, I got it running today. It does'nt look good. I push started it in 2nd gear, it would'nt start at low RPM's but once it got over 2500 it spit out light smoke and started. Now the bad news...there is smoke coming from the turbo/exhaust manifold and it won't stay on at low RPM. The exhaust has a differtent sound and when I drove it back home it started making weird rattling sounds from the engine bay. Would I have problems starting if the turbo went bad?
Refined Valley Dude
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,283
Likes: 2
From: Kitchener, Ontario (Hamilton's armpit)
Have you checked for error codes yet?
http://home.rmci.net/panther/ecu_codes.htm
The motor doesn't have to be running and this could save you from wasting a LOT of time chasing your tail...
http://home.rmci.net/panther/ecu_codes.htm
The motor doesn't have to be running and this could save you from wasting a LOT of time chasing your tail...
Refined Valley Dude
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,283
Likes: 2
From: Kitchener, Ontario (Hamilton's armpit)
Don't know - I'm not a turbo guy. There's this from RETed's site:
http://fc3s-pro.com/TECH/PROBLEMS/TURBO/turbo.htm
Check out the rest of the site - it's all about the TII.
http://fc3s-pro.com/TECH/PROBLEMS/TURBO/turbo.htm
Check out the rest of the site - it's all about the TII.
A bad turbo would have nothing to do with it running poorly let alone not running at all. Unfortunatly it sounds like a pretty severly blown engine, doesnt sound good. Pull your upper plugs and turn it over a few times and see if you get any wooshes of air coming out of there.
Damn...I was hoping not to hear that. I'm hoping this one time your wrong. Otherwise it looks like I will be installing an engine real soon(K&D rotary is booked till August).
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,052
Likes: 1
From: usa
So aside from all the speculation and hoping, has there been a compression test actually run on this engine yet? That is always the first order of business before chasing control system problems. It requires a ratchet and 13/16 socket and about 3 minutes to do a basic "ear" test which will reveal if all the apex seals are intact or not.
Originally posted by T2 Tsunami
Damn...I was hoping not to hear that. I'm hoping this one time your wrong. Otherwise it looks like I will be installing an engine real soon(K&D rotary is booked till August).
Damn...I was hoping not to hear that. I'm hoping this one time your wrong. Otherwise it looks like I will be installing an engine real soon(K&D rotary is booked till August).
I have'nt done a compression check yet, I just got it running again. Would I be able to get a proper check just from turning it over?..it won't start unless I get it push started and then I have to keep it at high rpm's.
Refined Valley Dude
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,283
Likes: 2
From: Kitchener, Ontario (Hamilton's armpit)
What hypntyz7 is talking about is something that you do just by cranking the motor with the key. Have someone get in the car and crank it while you hold your head near the plug holes and listen...
Got a big headache now. Brought a compression gauge, removed both lower plugs before hooking it up and checked for air. No need for gauge..no whoosh whoosh coming from front rotor barely anything. Now the big question that hopefully yall can help me out with. Price Vs. Headache comparison when it comes to either sending it away(entire car) to have the engine rebuilt or purchasing a rebuilt engine and installing it myself. I've done some mechanical work before(i.e.-transmission, water pump), but I have never pulled an engine with the intention of putting it back in(just cut **** off). Give me the low down on this job, taking into consideration what is on it..A/C, PS. Thanx for all the help.
Refined Valley Dude
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,283
Likes: 2
From: Kitchener, Ontario (Hamilton's armpit)
Originally posted by hypntyz7
I second all that, and have some to add. An engine swap in a 7 is unlike a swap in any other car on the road; you can take a toyota camry and swap in a junkyard motor, and if everything is connected (and sometimes even if it isnt) the bitch will fire on the first turn of the key. Well, even though 2gens are still EFI motors, theyre vastly different, and far from a turnkey swap. Sometimes it takes even someone like myself 2-4 days to get an engine swap to fire up adn run anywhere near right.
The most common things that'll srew you: AFM connector loose or off; large vacuum/intake leak, such as intake tube, BAC tube(s), brake MC hose, etc.; non-connected wires (especially in and around the ecu area), fuel lines backwards (supply off the filter in front on the engine), or no fuel to the engine (fuel pump not running). Depending on what kind of engine swap (longblock, where all the accessories and wiring were not disturbed since it last ran, or shortblock where everything got transferred part by part) you can cause a lot of problems by jostling all that stuff around.
Bottom line, there are no les than 25 things that could be causing your problems, and probably a combination of them. This is the point in time when people on this forum, even those well experienced, wont be of much help to you because we're not standing in front of the car, able to put our hands and testing equipment on it. There are some things you just have to see/hear to figure out; you might call something a knock that I might call a click, etc. etc.
Now on this issue of sparkplugs, it sounds like you may have just screwed yourself there. In your defense I have had plugs that seemed to be fairly tight going in/out before, and they just needed some lube/antisieze. I suggest you remove the plug, use liberal amounts of wd-40 etc. on the threads on the housing, and clean the threads of the plug itself with a wire brush or the like, then apply some oil or antisieze to the threads and slowly put it back in. I have yet to see a plug crossthread in a housing; even though theyre aluminum, theyre made very well/strong and the threads dont just give up without some major torque behind them, which is hard to obtain on a rotary because of the position of the plugs (and your ratchet in the engine bay).
I have gotten engines to run before with one plug totally missing (unbeknownst to me at the time) but it just depends on it's compression on the opposing rotor; having a plug loose would certainly decrease compression on one rotor and cut the chances of it starting in half. You shouldnt *have* to pull the thing either. Usually new (or different sets of used) plugs with some oil/atf in the lower holes will do the trick if nothign else is seriously out of whack. Keep i mind plugs foul easy as hell in a rotary, especially one that has sat for a while, or flooded, etc.
I second all that, and have some to add. An engine swap in a 7 is unlike a swap in any other car on the road; you can take a toyota camry and swap in a junkyard motor, and if everything is connected (and sometimes even if it isnt) the bitch will fire on the first turn of the key. Well, even though 2gens are still EFI motors, theyre vastly different, and far from a turnkey swap. Sometimes it takes even someone like myself 2-4 days to get an engine swap to fire up adn run anywhere near right.
The most common things that'll srew you: AFM connector loose or off; large vacuum/intake leak, such as intake tube, BAC tube(s), brake MC hose, etc.; non-connected wires (especially in and around the ecu area), fuel lines backwards (supply off the filter in front on the engine), or no fuel to the engine (fuel pump not running). Depending on what kind of engine swap (longblock, where all the accessories and wiring were not disturbed since it last ran, or shortblock where everything got transferred part by part) you can cause a lot of problems by jostling all that stuff around.
Bottom line, there are no les than 25 things that could be causing your problems, and probably a combination of them. This is the point in time when people on this forum, even those well experienced, wont be of much help to you because we're not standing in front of the car, able to put our hands and testing equipment on it. There are some things you just have to see/hear to figure out; you might call something a knock that I might call a click, etc. etc.
Now on this issue of sparkplugs, it sounds like you may have just screwed yourself there. In your defense I have had plugs that seemed to be fairly tight going in/out before, and they just needed some lube/antisieze. I suggest you remove the plug, use liberal amounts of wd-40 etc. on the threads on the housing, and clean the threads of the plug itself with a wire brush or the like, then apply some oil or antisieze to the threads and slowly put it back in. I have yet to see a plug crossthread in a housing; even though theyre aluminum, theyre made very well/strong and the threads dont just give up without some major torque behind them, which is hard to obtain on a rotary because of the position of the plugs (and your ratchet in the engine bay).
I have gotten engines to run before with one plug totally missing (unbeknownst to me at the time) but it just depends on it's compression on the opposing rotor; having a plug loose would certainly decrease compression on one rotor and cut the chances of it starting in half. You shouldnt *have* to pull the thing either. Usually new (or different sets of used) plugs with some oil/atf in the lower holes will do the trick if nothign else is seriously out of whack. Keep i mind plugs foul easy as hell in a rotary, especially one that has sat for a while, or flooded, etc.
Check out www.rotaryresurrection.com Kevin's the man for rebuilds.
He's who I'm thinking of taking the car to, I just don't know whether to do that or have an engine sent to me and install it myself. I would have to get my car towed to Tennesse, and possibly run two trips up and back down there to pick up the car. I'm just shopping for the lowest price for an engine to figure it all out.
just get a mazda reman from malloy mazda. its $2000 shipped with new gasket set. has a 1 year warranty if you blow it up you get a new one. you cannot beat that. i am currently installing one in my friends 89 TII he blew the rear rotor though. swapping engines on a TII is pretty damn easy ! 
Daily Domestic Killer
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,425
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio, Tx, USA
pulled, rebuilt, and installed my engine on my own....installation was more of a headache than rebuilding for alittle more than 700 bux 
My question how would you engine just DIE? I'm mean you musta detanated pretty big or somthing....
for alittle more than 700 bux My question how would you engine just DIE? I'm mean you musta detanated pretty big or somthing....
I have the slightest idea how it blew just like that, I was on the highway, not speeding bad probably about 80-85, and it shut off when I got off the exit ramp..probably doing 40. Hey Vosko..when you pretty damn easy is that pretty damn easy for someone who has never pulled an engine or pretty damn easy for someone who ***** rotors. I don't **** rotors...I've own 6 RX-7's and have done transmissions and general maintenance. This is my first turbo.
Daily Domestic Killer
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,425
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio, Tx, USA
that was my first rebuild, never rebuilt ANYTHING Before...though i had done a tranny job...if you figured the tranny out on your own you should be fine...get yourself the atkins rebuild video, print out that section on the FSM and you'll be fine...