Cool, I'll go try it out right now.

I post what the readings are afterwards. Cross my fingers.

 

Well Woopdidoo...It works.

At Idle, I'm at 18 or so. So I guess my engine is stock. No need for fuel upgrade.

That guy is the Carrera 4 was probably just a lousy driver.

Thanks all.

/thread.

 

Edit

 

I just wanted to say that this was a very good thread! Everyone helped each other with no drama and such, good job crew!

 

Vac is not necessarily a good indication of anything. I was (for smog only) running a 13b-re keg, with rew manifolds, turbo's and stock FD computer and electronics. Now I am running a standalone.

When I was adjusting the idle using the procedure provided in the FD FSM (on the FD comp) and various sources I could get the fairly tired 13b-re keg to pull anywhere from 10-19 in vac, at the same idle speed, and with the same overall steady idle.

 

Well, tried it again.

It stays around 20-21 of vac at idle...and goes up to 8 PSI steadly everytime.

I feel releived. You never know what these japaneese people do to the engines we buy.

 

+1!

 

Damn all you guys fail!

Take your lower intake manifold off, look and take a feeler. Should be MORE than obvious if it is. If the port is some what rough, its not ported that is the original casting from Mazda, It should feel somewhat smooth, it doesn't take a scientist to figure it out.

 

Actually, at least one of them goes post TB and should show vacuum.
This is for an FC turbo.


-Ted

 

Actually, it is if the RPM and ignition timing spec are consistent.
If we're talking stock specs - 750RPM / 5-degrees ATDC leading / 20-degrees ATDC trailing - then my experience has been...

18 - 20 inHg = stock
14 - 17 inHg = street ported
10 - 12 inHg = bridge ported (although I doubt you can get it to idle @ 750RPM)

Keep in mind that intake vacuum leaks will lower vacuum readings.
Which means that if you have low (high?) vacuum closer to 20 inHg, it's most likely stock.


-Ted

 

0-60 on a '99 Carrera is 5.0s, same as one of the later FD's (stock). Like the FD, Porsches shine more in handling than acceleration (not that both cars aren't good at both). 0-60 on a stock TII is ~6.5s. But you've probably added around 70 horsepower with the mods you've listed (w/o a street port). Not to mention a light flywheel helps a good deal off the line. I'd say you're about even.

Plus, didn't you say you got a new J-spec? Do those even come ported?

3263lbs., 296bHP, (11lbs./HP => you need 260bHP or ~220wHP to match), 0-60 in 5.0s
http://www.fantasycars.com/derek/cars/carrera.html

RX-7's are fast. I can't believe how many owners won't believe that. Heck, some rag on them so much I wonder what they're even doing here.

 

Still it's not a bad idea to get a wideband when you can afford one and keep a watchful eye on AFRs if you're concerned about longevity of your motor.

Good thread.....glad to see this much good input.

 

For future reference, which one?

 

If I remember correctly, it's the top one.

In my setup, I used the bottom nipple in the front of my UIM for the pressure signal, and I have the boost gauge tee'd there.

The blow off valve is directly connected to the nipple coming off the top of the LIM

My EBC is tee'd into the FPR vac line.