I don't know if I'm crazy or just stupid here, but I'd like some good opinions on the subject.

If I were to buy a TII FC, would there be a way to de-turbo it? My thought pattern is that TII models had stronger drivetrain and brake components. So if you de-turbo them, you'd have a sturdier platform, and good get better lifetime out of it.

I'm just trying to think of ways to make a reliable FC, and I know that NA>Turbo for reliablity and less repairs.

So, does my idea hold water, or is will it go the way of the Titanic?

 

well if you have an 88 GXL and an 88 TII. they share the same brake components. THe driveline is different but your not making any power to make that matter.

honestly, buy a NA rotary to start with. "de-turboing" would cost more money to get it to run correctly, with less power, and no advantage

prognosis: Buy an S4 GXL

 

The GXL had the same big brakes & the LSD & such. They are weaker than the TII parts, but as long as you're not significantly exceeding 200WHP, the drivetrain will be fine. If you're pushing 200WHP & doing drag racing, you would want to get the TII drivetrain bits, but for most reasonable NA use, the NA drivetrain is fine.

Also, the turbo motors are different internally than the NA ones. They only have 4 ports (instead of 6 on the NA), and have lower compression. Running a turbo motor with no boost will give you less power than a NA motor of the same series.

Finally, reliability is less related to the series and more to what you do with it. A well maintained NA will be more reliable than a poorly maintained TII any day of the week. You just need to expect that you'll be replacing parts when you get the car to replace worn out pieces. If you replace 20 year old parts up front, you'll generally have a quite reliable vehicle. If you replace things after they break (and often damage other things on the way out), it will be an absolute nightmare.

-=Russ=-

 

ya buying a turbo then deturboing it sounds like a bad idea seeing ah how all you have to do to make a rx7 w/ 4 pot brakes into a "non-turbo turbo" is swap diff and tranny. your better off buying an n/a

 

The driveline isn't the primary failure point of an N/A that's being used for reliability.

I believe the cooling system is the primary failure point and thus the section you would want to make sure is up to snuff more than anything else.

This, of course, changes some if you're intending on making 200+ RWHP.

 

The lifetime on a TII isn't ridiculously short. I'm in no way an expert on the overall wear and tear that they receive but mine is nearly at 140k now and still boosting hard enough for me to port my wastegate further than I did the first time.

Similarly you could get an N/A that has been treated poorly and have it crap out at 120k or less. My point is that in order to get the absolute best reliability you need to study the cars inside and out, then do your best to buy one that fits your standards and do not settle for anything less. It took me 2 years to find my TII but it hadn't been wrenched on past the usual oil changes and clutch swap. It took me some cash to bring it up to a fully reliable platform but you need to expect that with these cars.

They are not unreliable; people are.

 

Don't do that.

 

you would be fine with an n/a. you only need to start worrying about the driveline taking a crap is when you start to exceed about 250 horses, which would be a lot of work WITHOUT turbo.

 

if you do ill trade parts with you

 

On the flip side, The 4 port N/A builds seem to make better power than the 6 ports. I'd say get an N/A and swap the irons out. Somewhere, on one of the rotary forums I'm on, possibly this one, a guy made 210 hp with a 4 port N/A with just a streetport. I am unaware of how aggressive it was. I'd say just swap out the Irons and modify the N/A LIM to match, or buy a TII LIM and find out if an adapter is necessary for an N/A UIM to TII LIM. Or you could just get a TII LIM/UIM. Of course it really depends on what you're trying to do here. If this is gonna see a lot track/strip then a TII drivetrain might be the way to go. I'd say look for a no-motor TII for starters, then look for an N/A motor and do a 4 port iron swap.

 

...or just buy a GXL..,

 

Or a GTUs

 

Or a Civic.

 

Or a sport model?

Lightest model with 4 pot brakes and LSD?

 

Sport models didn't come with LSD...

The absolute best N/A FC ever built was the S4 (88) GTU... Had manual windows (although I've seen them with power), sunroof, clutch type LSD, 4-pot TII brakes, spoiler, aluminum hood, etc... Even the S5 GTUs can't really compare to the all around feel of the S4 GTU... Throw a Miata gearbox in it, some RB true duals, CAI, etc, and have fun with it...

 

how about a turbo'ed 88 GTU !!!!
except i didnt get the wing or alluminum hood (the 7 was crashed before..) and have power everything.... YAY

 

My mistake. But if you wanted to throw in a Kaaz or something... =D

I think I've seen Sport models without sunroofs - this could be a perk depending on how you look at it. Personally, I prefer no sunroof.

Only then, it'd be equal to the S4 GTU, but a tad bit lighter w/out the sunroof.

 

88GTU

[/thread]

 

88 GTU or 89-90 GTUs...................If you're worried about the reliability of the drivetrain then you probably are going to beat on the 7 and it's not the car for you. Everyone that beats on a 7 KNOWS that it needs to be maintained properly in order to keep it on the road...and if your solution is to deturbo a car to make it reliable then you REALLY REALLY need to do a little more research before you go buying a 7.

IF i thought you had a GOOD point, which i dont, I would tell you to buy the RX7 tranny, and rear end and swap THAT in( along with the starter, clutch/flywheel and DS) but i honestly think you are tackling this the wrong way.......

 

S5 TII then put a 3 rotor N/A in it? lol...

- Chris

 

don't even start that one.................next think you know he's going to buy the 20B and try to deturbo that and we'll have more threads about this..............let's all agree that this is not a good idea and he should buy/modify an NA rather than raping a TII.

 

I agree totally. My TII has 148,000 on the ticker and still takes 8 pounds of boost easily. I need a FCD for it, but other than that it runs like a top. This car has been driven hard by numerous owners, but was always maintained properly.

If you buy a T2 you will find that you would rather take the extra time to maintain it rather than deturbo it.

RR87

 

I'll bite.

Bullshit.

 

you call bullshit on what? his info? his avatar? his face?

i mean I would disagree with the MIATA tranny because it blows hairy monkey *****...but I don't see anything wrong with his statement......a bit vague maybe......

 

Haha... I said best N/A FC fool...

Slow your roll...