damn damn damn
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damn damn damn
Right before i get my new house. Something happens to my car. I put it in gear and it rev high as hell then i shift into 2nd same thing. I cant go past 40 wtf is going on
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sounds like his car is running like ****, so hes stomping the throttle cause he doesnt have any power and its making him frustrated
EDIT: i say fuel pressure related
EDIT: i say fuel pressure related
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Sry i'm just so pissed everything was going good. Ok when i pull out of the drive way
it dosnt start moving intul about 5 grand in first gear i shift when the light says and it rev very high it hit 8 grand in 3 and would only go around 40 mph
it dosnt start moving intul about 5 grand in first gear i shift when the light says and it rev very high it hit 8 grand in 3 and would only go around 40 mph
#14
I R SAD PANDA W/O BAW
normally a clutch wont just magically begin to slip like crazy unless it's been slipping for a while already or he did something he shouldnt have been doing.
#17
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if you bomb it into gear and the revs shoot up but the car doesnt go forward, its the clutch, buy a clutch kit from an auto parts store and slap it in, it takes about 4 hours if you rush. if your car is a daily and you arent beating it, you dont have to resurface the flywheel, its cheap, and any machine shop can do it so if you have the time then go for it. not a reason to sell your car, if you cant do it, pay someone, i will tell you this right now, if you decide to do it and you are going to resurface the flywheel or replace it with another one, goodluck getting that flywheel bolt off, and no a turbo flywheel wont work on your car, they are balnced to the counterweight i believe and you have to change both.
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no if its n/a. they are different
and yes that more than likely is the clutch slipping. there are places on the motor to take off inspection plates and you can see the clutch and flywheel from there.
this is where you should start.
and yes that more than likely is the clutch slipping. there are places on the motor to take off inspection plates and you can see the clutch and flywheel from there.
this is where you should start.
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you only need the counter weight if it is a auto or an aftermarket flywheel. the nut is rather easy to get off. i found a great way to do it.
also, to have the flywheel resurfaced it is a 2-step flywheel so it will cost about 70 depending on where you go.
but like i said before, check through the inspection plates first!
also, to have the flywheel resurfaced it is a 2-step flywheel so it will cost about 70 depending on where you go.
but like i said before, check through the inspection plates first!
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you only need the counter weight if it is a auto or an aftermarket flywheel. the nut is rather easy to get off. i found a great way to do it.
also, to have the flywheel resurfaced it is a 2-step flywheel so it will cost about 70 depending on where you go.
but like i said before, check through the inspection plates first!
also, to have the flywheel resurfaced it is a 2-step flywheel so it will cost about 70 depending on where you go.
but like i said before, check through the inspection plates first!
#21
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sorry, meant to put pm me on how to do it... but anyways here it is (sorry no pics of the thing i talk about):
basically all you do is get your socket, breaker bar, and the longest cheater pipe you can find/fit under the car.
now to stop the flywheel from turning. i believe you can get it at lowe's or someplace like that. (i had it lying around the house) its a piece of metal that has a 90 degree bend all the way down it and it has holes on both sides of the bend. its really simple, take one of the flywheel bolts for the pressure plate out, put one hole from the piece of metal onto one of the pins sticking out from the flywheel and tighten the bolt down onto the piece of metal so it is slanted across the flywheel and now is touching the ground. thats all there is to it, the ground will stop the metal piece and flywheel from moving and you can easily break the nut free. also its a lot cheaper than buying the **** Mazda has you using.
hope this helps at least one person.
oh, and also i did this with the engine out of the car so im not sure how easy this will be with it in the car.
good luck!
basically all you do is get your socket, breaker bar, and the longest cheater pipe you can find/fit under the car.
now to stop the flywheel from turning. i believe you can get it at lowe's or someplace like that. (i had it lying around the house) its a piece of metal that has a 90 degree bend all the way down it and it has holes on both sides of the bend. its really simple, take one of the flywheel bolts for the pressure plate out, put one hole from the piece of metal onto one of the pins sticking out from the flywheel and tighten the bolt down onto the piece of metal so it is slanted across the flywheel and now is touching the ground. thats all there is to it, the ground will stop the metal piece and flywheel from moving and you can easily break the nut free. also its a lot cheaper than buying the **** Mazda has you using.
hope this helps at least one person.
oh, and also i did this with the engine out of the car so im not sure how easy this will be with it in the car.
good luck!