melicha8

iTrader: (1)

I just wanted to show my progress on my new intake setup and get some questions answered.

Are these two plugs for my AAS system? Can I cut the plugs off and cap them since I have RB springs and HKS Dampers or will it throw some code? Though not visible the white plug is six prong.



A)WTF is this?
B)Can I remove or relocated this
C) If relocated can it be oriented in a nonspecific postion
D) I'd also like to know an answer for C in regards to the pressure sensor which will definitely not be removed


This is my initial design which is so multifaceted with concave angles that glassing this thing would have taken many pieces, monofilament, and prep work. Another design flaw is that not much room is left outside the box for the afm(s4) with engine movement in mind. Keep It Simple Stupid was definitely not what I was thinking.


That is now scrapped for a much simpler design. It encloses the afm inside the heat shield and uses the stock mounting holes at the back to mounth to the heat shield. This is the general shape but more will be added/removed to better seal around the hood and monocoque. Though not noticable in the picture I'll point out that the area where the hole for the afm will be cut is at a perfectly square and leveled angle in relation to the stock plastic elbow. Also pictured is the extruded aluminum velocity stack and filter I'll be using

adrock3217

Err..where are you going to be getting air from?

melicha8

iTrader: (1)

Here is what I've made since I took the last picture. I'll be using the stockelbow for daily driving and probably a louvred headlight cover for the track. I'm getting the contours of the hood with the cut pieces of zip tie and tape. Just one more piece to cut out and it's ready to go.

speed_monkey

Your going to use one of those headlight covers with the vent in it? You do realize how little flow that is going to get to your filter... right?

dufourmike

iTrader: (1)

SHHHHH dont make fun of him.

anyway, the first one is the ***, the second one that is green, thats to adjust your TPS, the third is to adjust your richness(or leanness) at idle.

and nice cold air boxes, i wish i had the time to make one

dufourmike

iTrader: (1)

and you can move them anywhere you want, but make a cool bracket for them.

melicha8

iTrader: (1)

I hadn't exactly settled on the headlight cover so frankie says "relax". Heat shield has been finished and glassed. I ran out of parafilm though argh. I hope 3 layers is enough rigidity because that is all I had.

Noel Caraballo

iTrader: (2)

sweet, whats all the supplies you need to make something like that,

rotorforce

So that was a fiberglass mold you had...Love to see the finished product.. good job

melicha8

iTrader: (1)

This is my second custom fiber glass project so I had a bit more confidence this time. The foam board is easy to work with, consumable, and cheap so it is a good material to work with. I haven't done the tube connecting to the elbow yet and I may do that in fiberglass too. I've been tossing around the idea of making a skeleton of foam board and fill in the other area's with the can insulation and shave it down. This too would be destroyed once the resin set but who cares it's a one off part. I think once this is done it will be a big improvement over any other out there in terms of simplicity and flow.

Materials:
1/4" foam presentation board(CVS/RiteAid)
Razor Blade and razor saw blades
Straight edge/Ruler
Protractor
Compass
Line Level and Straight Edge Level
Hot Glue and Gun
Pen
Parafilm or parafin film substitute
Awl
10mm driver
Rotary tool with cut-off and sanding barrel attatchments
Body filler
Sandpaper
resin
hardner
glass cloth
zip ties
tape

melicha8

iTrader: (1)

I took the covering off but it's still in late green cure. I think I need to add some more layers. I ran out of parafilm and used tin foil and it made the surface much smother. the only drawback is you can't see air bubbles. You can sort of tell in the picture

Jager

iTrader: (10)

I'll buy one if its legit when you're done .

fc.fanatic

id buy one too, pretty close to what i was looking for. u should consider making more! lol. nice work tho.

melicha8

iTrader: (1)

So I got the piece fiberglassed with random strand 2" chop for two more layers and then let it cure overnight. It came out well and I even salvaged the foamboard plug in relatively undamaged condition. I did a little more rough cutting and smoothing out of the edges. I gave a little bondo a try but I don't like how it came out. I should have just kept it au natural fiber chop texture.

bradenscreed

now, my question, which is more efficient, metal box, or fiberglass?

melicha8

iTrader: (1)

fiberglass is not a conductor, lighter, and also stiffer. 3 strikes you're in the garbage metal

adrock3217

Metal heatsoaks, which would make hot air come in even though it's boxed around. So, fiberglass would most definitely be better, as long as it is sealed properly around the hood area.

initforthefun20

hey if you don't want to spend the time to make a few and all when i go home in two weeks i can make a temp. and thena mold and make then for a faraly cheep price if there is a call for it.. if your interested PM me and we will talk..

melicha8

iTrader: (1)

So now I have one more question. This turned out to be much more than just an intake. I pulled my whole upper intake manifold and took a look around. I have pulled all the injectors and am sending them out tommorrow to get tested and cleaned. I ordered tubing and clamps to replace my oil metering lines(www.corbincorp.com, thanks thread author for this info). 1.Is there a source for crush washers for those? my pulsation damper was also rattling like a spanish castanette when I shook it so I assumed it was screwed(my main reason for even getting pulling the uim). The PD and the washers have just been ordered from mazdatrix. Now my main concerns. I checked the spider(not in bad shape so not ordered) and the oil metering lines and did not see any cracks yet I see a more oily than gas-like(from PD) residue. 2.What other points might this whole system leak at? 3.Is there a recommended method for cleaning the primaries? 4. Are there any other general wear and tear things I can replace to oem or improved condition while I'm in the area and have said items removed? I don't want to do anything crazy and it's snowballed into something way bigger than I realized so relevant info would be much appreciated. Can any veterans help me out?

fcdrifter13

Said It once and Ill say it again. Double walled aluminim with good stuff in the middle getting air from a brake duct and totally sealed off from the rest of the engine bay FTW.


And yes that is the longest FTW on the internet

NZConvertible

It's the variable resistor, which is used to adjust the idle mixture. It can go anywhere and and way, but leave it plugged in. The same applies to the MAP sensor, but pointing the nipple downwards prevents moisture getting into the sensor.

melicha8

iTrader: (1)

These questions have already been field. I did ask more so feel free to answer those

Roger_rex

I may be obtuse, but wot's the parafilm for? I am thinking doing some fibreglassing myself and I am learning