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Old 06-25-10, 06:23 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by RockLobster
Unfortunately none of that nonsense applies to turbo cars, necessarily. A turbo car simply wants the least amount of static pressure losses possible. In the upper RPM range on rotary turbo cars especially there is very little difference in temp and thus density of the compressible exhaust fluids. in a 2.5, 3 or even slightly larger exhaust. Quite simply, the bigger the better with an ever increasing diminishing returns effect.
You would be correct sir and thank you for knowing what you're talking about.
jjwalker, you need to do some reading yourself apparently and get off the fake *** Wiki pages. In an NA car, no bigger than 2.5" would be correct and depending on your goals would want either a short or long primary exhaust to help with the scavenging of exhaust gasses. Turbo cars don't apply to this. The best exhaust for a turbo car is, as stated, no exhaust. I've played around with NA's long enough to know what is right for them
Old 06-28-10, 12:38 PM
  #52  
Let's get silly...

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Originally Posted by FirebirdSlayer666
You would be correct sir and thank you for knowing what you're talking about.
jjwalker, you need to do some reading yourself apparently and get off the fake *** Wiki pages. In an NA car, no bigger than 2.5" would be correct and depending on your goals would want either a short or long primary exhaust to help with the scavenging of exhaust gasses. Turbo cars don't apply to this. The best exhaust for a turbo car is, as stated, no exhaust. I've played around with NA's long enough to know what is right for them
I have also found that all things considered a single 2.5" seems to be the best for N/A Cars, with a good header.
Old 06-29-10, 07:13 PM
  #53  
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Yep. The FB's love the long primary, so a well designed uncollected header, with twin 1 7/8"- 2" pipes all the way back then collect to a 2 1/2" just before the rear axle.
Old 07-01-10, 10:06 AM
  #54  
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Ok, so one more question. Can anyone recommend an FCD that clamps voltage? Will a knights sport FCD cause any lean mix issues?
Old 07-01-10, 04:13 PM
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Another question. Do I need to spend 250$ on a Bonez cat? Or will a regular universal cat with an airpipe work?
Old 07-05-10, 07:43 PM
  #56  
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Any takers?
Old 07-05-10, 08:39 PM
  #57  
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I have a Racing Beat FCD that works great if you are interested... It on my for sale thread.
Old 07-05-10, 11:57 PM
  #58  
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I told you I have an FCD for sale too.
Old 07-06-10, 09:07 AM
  #59  
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12A, I need the FCD for an S5.

Incubus - I would like to buy your FCD, but I still need to verify it clamps voltage, and doesn't just use a resistor type driver. You said it was knightsport? Does anyone know if Knightsport uses clamping voltage?
Old 07-06-10, 11:34 AM
  #60  
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BAMATO.

IF your trying to be cheap and simple. I would recommend the SSAC exhaust for turboII's
Its about 250-275 shipped
THe only bad part about it is that the resonator is 2 1/2. IT is very light and very tight under the car. I have coil overs and my exhaust has never scraped.

MY mods.
COne filter, 720cc x2, fcd, SSAC exhaust, S5 engine in 88TII

FCD is a must. I would almost want to say 720cc secondaries are a must also.
I say that because with my basic mods im seeing up to 12 psi on cool night in 3rd and 4th gears. GL
Old 07-06-10, 12:35 PM
  #61  
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Not necessarily trying to be cheap and simple.... I just enjoy the idea of building my exhaust. Yes I have mentioned I don't want the most expensive stuff, but I don't want to be cutting corners either. I don't want to spend a few hundred dollars or more on a system that I'll end up hacking apart to make emissions legal, or to sound the way I want it.

I will be buying an FCD, no question about that. As for the secondaries, I'll have to see how my boost levels come out to know what route I'll end up taking.
Old 07-07-10, 04:57 AM
  #62  
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don't worry about emissions i can take care of that for ya
Old 07-08-10, 01:45 PM
  #63  
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Alright, new shopping list:

Corksport 3" downpipe (ordered)
Innovate WB gauge/sensor (ordered)
3" Universal Cat with air inlet
2.5" piping to mufflers

I was originally going to use the magnaflow stainless mufflers.... but I'm afraid I'll be a little louder than I would like. I just don't want to sound all raspy. I know it's sort of hard to do on a rotary engine.... Would a resonator help smooth out the tone if I kept the magnaflows?

Or should I go with different mufflers all together? My main goals are to avoid giving myself headaches while cruising, and I don't want to sound like a civic with a coffee can welded to my tailpipes.

Last edited by Bamato; 07-08-10 at 01:49 PM.
Old 07-21-10, 07:04 PM
  #64  
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Alright, so a box of goodies arrived in the mail today



Resonators


Mufflers


And I got this...


To handle these..


I've already got the 3" corksport downpipe. I've got a hi-flow cat coming tomorrow, and I should be all set. Still waiting on my old-school VW boost gauge though.

Decided to go three inch all the way to the "Y", then 2.5 the rest of the way back With any luck, I should get this done this weekend

Also still waiting on my injector resistors...

Last edited by Bamato; 07-21-10 at 07:08 PM.
Old 07-27-10, 09:53 AM
  #65  
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Didn't get any of the exhaust built this weekend. I had problems with everything. While installing the Rtek in my ecu, I believe I may have dropped a bit of solder somewhere I shouldn't have from my crappy solder sucker, or I overheated the board components. So when I plugged the ECU back in, and turned the key, all the solenoids in the engine bay went crazy. And the car would no longer start (later discovered my friend hooked the fuel pump up backwards...).

The stock intake manifold gasket broke apart when I pulled the UIM off to replace the secondaries, but I was able to drive out to the westside of town to get a new one from Turblown.

Found a JDM N374 ECU locally (thanks Gurew) with a knightsport chip already in it, so I can throw my Rtek in it's place without fear of destroying another ECU.

Started the car finally yesterday, only to discover theres gobs of fuel pouring out from somewhere under the UIM. My guess is one of the injectors didn't seat right. But I'm not sure.

So after all that, I haven't touched the exhaust. What a sham of a weekend...
Old 08-01-10, 08:11 PM
  #66  
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Got my exhaust installed Some of the bends didn't come out the way I wanted/planned, but I was pretty impressed. My buddy and I tried to use math, but it didn't work out so well. So we resorted to the tried and true guess and check method. Once I get all the pictures rounded up, I'll probably post the whole build in the non-tech section. Here's a vid. Thanks to everyone that gave me suggestions, and helped out!

Not the best vid, but it works. Exactly the volume level I wanted. Not crazy, but you can definitely hear it . But the mic on my camera stinks....

<object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/yvbTbyDiDsg&amp;hl=en_US&amp;fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/yvbTbyDiDsg&amp;hl=en_US&amp;fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>
Old 08-02-10, 11:27 AM
  #67  
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I just realized I've just been talking to myself the last month.. lol....
Old 08-02-10, 12:16 PM
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Sounds good, but I would have done without the resonators personally. What made you choose to use them?
Old 08-02-10, 12:44 PM
  #69  
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sounds nicee
Old 08-02-10, 02:01 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by jjwalker
Sounds good, but I would have done without the resonators personally. What made you choose to use them?
low profile tone! sounds nice.

can u get any underbody pics?
Old 08-02-10, 02:38 PM
  #71  
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One other thing... Wideband O2 sensors are pretty sensitive to heat & pressure, and the temperature coming right out of the turbo (as well as the pressures there) will cause it to get out of calibration pretty quickly, and outright fail more quickly too. A better place for it is right down around the bend in the pipe circled in green in the stock setup picture you posted earlier; I've had mine at this spot (the approximate distance from the turbo is whats important), with a home-made heat shield, for a couple years and things are still good (checked against a known good sensor in the same location)
Old 08-03-10, 09:27 AM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by jjwalker
Sounds good, but I would have done without the resonators personally. What made you choose to use them?
Thanks! I wanted more control over the tone. And wanted it to be modest.

Originally Posted by lonewolfrx
sounds nicee
Thanks!

Originally Posted by GuiltySoul
low profile tone! sounds nice.

can u get any underbody pics?
Once I get all the photos together, I'll post some up

Originally Posted by toplessFC3Sman
One other thing... Wideband O2 sensors are pretty sensitive to heat & pressure, and the temperature coming right out of the turbo (as well as the pressures there) will cause it to get out of calibration pretty quickly, and outright fail more quickly too. A better place for it is right down around the bend in the pipe circled in green in the stock setup picture you posted earlier; I've had mine at this spot (the approximate distance from the turbo is whats important), with a home-made heat shield, for a couple years and things are still good (checked against a known good sensor in the same location)
I mounted the bung fairly far down the pipe, about 1/3-1/2 of the way down. I really wanted to mount the controller in the engine bay, and not have it strapped to the bottom of the car.
Old 08-03-10, 09:32 AM
  #73  
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Oh, and for anyone ever changing fuel injectors out.... ALWAYS assume the o-rings need replacing. The ones that came on the injectors looked just fine. But one decided it didn't feel like doing what it was supposed to, and sprayed fuel all over the engine
Old 08-03-10, 10:41 AM
  #74  
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You can strap the WB controller on the transmission crossmember, or there was a nice little spot inboard of the frame "rail" that was boxed on 3 sides, right near where the speedometer cable exits the transmission. I don't know if this is only there on 'verts, but it's worked well for holding it, as long as you take care of any and all slack in the cables so they don't drag. I also made a thin aluminum shield that the cable is strapped to, so that it doesn't contact the driveshaft's U-joint (since the wires for mine run up through the shifter hole and around to the passenger footwell to the ECU & gauge)
Old 08-05-10, 09:16 AM
  #75  
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Having some issues with AFR's and jerking/pulsing at casual acceleration. Started a separate thread about. Hoping I can get it sorted out soon.

Oh, and also, turns out I didn't burn up my ECU. Rtek used the wrong hardware when they wrote the software for the chip. I got a full refund


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