TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

Hi all. I'm about to drive 6 hours, and I have decided that I MIGHT want to get my cruise control working.

I have the turbo cruise control module, and I have the turbo UIM, and I DO have the turbo shroud that goes around the t2 gauge cluster (but not installed, I am currently using the NA one if that matters?).

I did have a t2 gauge cluster but I took it apart for fun and I'm quite sure I cant get it back togather.

Anyways when I press the button on the cluster shroud to turn on cruise control nothing happens.

I am running the t2 ecu and the t2 wiring harness and I have the cruise control plugged in...

What am I missing?

UPDATE: I'm going to go outside and actually put the cruises cable ON the UIM in case for some reason it has to be connected for it to turn on the cruise control. Now that I think about it.... it might... haha

RoughRex

I've recently been going through a lot of cruise headache so... You need the following:

1. Any S4 cruise switch
2. S4 Turbo cruise computer & Turbo cruise actuator OR S4 N/A cruise computer & N/A cruise actuator
3. Clip that goes on the cruis cable where it attaches to the UIM/TB.
4. Clutch and brake switches with rubber bumper/stops.

If you have all of that and it still doesn't work then something is probably broken.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

holy smokes really?!

Ok Im guessing its the bump stops that is causing my problem now.

I installed just the s4 t2 ..um actuator and now when I press the power button still nothing happends, but when I press set the cruise light comes on for a sec then turns off and I dont cruise at all. I have a t2 parts car so I'm sure I have all the stuff you just mentioned. Do you have any pictures or part numbers of what the cruise computer looks like and where it is located. I'm guessing I just need to take the switches off the t2s pedals and I should be good then...

but ... my s4 car already had cruise so it should already have the pedal bumpers on it correct?
So I guess I just need the cruise computer. where where where ??

also THANKS for the help!

RoughRex

The computer is tucked in the drivers kick panel to the left of the fuses. It has two nuts holding it on from the bottom and a big plug in the bottom of it. It's kind of crammed up in there behind the wiring. It should be marked FB01 or FB01A. The turbo one is marked FB44.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

Awesome, ok got the computer in there, went for a test drive and it took a second, my speed dropped, cruise kicked in for a 1/2 second jerk, then went away, speed dropped even lower, and then cruise kicked in for 1/4 a second jerk. Sometimes it would randomly jerk on for a sec, and sometimes it wouldnt do anything. Any guess?

My power steering works so I think speed sensing is fine...

Again thanks, your slowly saving my right foot from a slow 6 hour death.

RoughRex

Do you still have the N/A actuator? I'd try putting the N/A actuator and computer back in. It sounds like an electrical problem to me. Mechanical issues are usually consistent, electronics are erratic. I'd guess that either the TII CCU or actuator is bad.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

pooh kk ya I still have the NA but is the cable the same length?

RoughRex

I think it is but, no worries if it's not. It's removeable.... if you can get the rubber boot out to access where it's connected. the metal lip of the actuator is stuck in a groove at the base of the boot. The rubber is old and stiff so it could be a pain. well... uhhh it's removeable on the vacuum actuator anyway, I won't have a electric one to look at until tomorrow when fedex gets here (My cruise isn't working yet either, parts arriving soon ).

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

ok cool, I will try to switch to the NA's cruise control actu. and computer tomorrow, maybe the vac line going to the NA will help smooth it out. But I will bring the t2 act. and cpu in case you figure something out.

Thanks. good luck with yours.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

anybody else have any ideas on what is missing? I'm having a heck of a time trying to get the NA act. even connected, it seems to be 4 or so inches to short.

HAILERS

This combinaton(s) should work.

FB44 CCU with electric actuator.

FB01 CCU with vacuum actuator

The two switches on the clutch and brake pedal are not required for the cruise to come on. But will cause problems if you need to get out of cruise in a hurry.

The switch has to be a series four. It can be turbo or non turbo switch. It cannot be a series five switch. That switch can be made to work by swapping wires on the cruise switch's plug and permently depressing the ON button.

The mounting brackets for turbo actuators vs vaccum actuator are different if memory serves.

IF the cruise engages and then drops out, make sure your foot is not laying on the clutch or brake pedal.

So. Write back and state what CCU number your using with the vacuum actuator. Only the FB01 will work. I

HAILERS

About the switch. It has to be series four. A series five switch has a canted front. I'm talking the area that has the MAIN display. It should be straight up/down and not canted. Can't explain it better than that. Then again, I doubt the series five switch will do squat on a series four unless you rearrange the wires in it's plug.

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

ooookkkkkkk soooooo haha

Review: I have turbo ECU, turbo cruise acuator, turbo cruise computer, turbo uim, s4 cruise switch, and all the brake / clutch switches.

My cruise control is starting to work... kinda.
Description: I speed up to 70, press the power button on the cruise, nothing changes no lights turn on on the cruise switch, I press set on the cruise switch and nothing happends, I hit set again and it will start to cruise for 1 second then let go, speed will fall and then the cruise acuator will kick in once more but then let go.

Any ideas now?

scrip7

iTrader: (6)

If your car is turbo, the N/A actuator will not work under boost. That is why an electric actuator is used on turbo models. The N/A actuator works using engine vacuum, which we all know isn't present under boost.

HAILERS

And we all know that when your CRUISING the engine is NOT in boost and a vacuum operated actuator works just fine and dandy. Been there, done that and got a chip on my shoulder for the very thought a vacuum actuated cruise control won't work on a turbo'd car.

If your turbo car, with electric actuator, goes into boost, your not cruising anymore. IF you have a vacuum operated actuator and your in cruise, then step on the pedal to pass another slug car , then pass that car and let off the gas to return to the speed you were crusing at, the vacuum operated actuator will again hold that speed because when you let off the gas you were in vacuum once more. I've cruised for hundreds of miles with a vacuum operated cruise control unit in a turbo car and never had any problem.

So let's stop pretending a vacuum operated actutator will not functiion on a turbo car. When CRUSING your NOT IN BOOST. Darn it.

HAILERS

Has the symptoms of the actuators cable not being on right? Too much slack? Acturator not bolted down?

Pull the plugs off the brake and clutch switches and go for a drive and see if there is any difference. Use care and be alert because the only ways to turn it off if it engages is to work the lever/button on the switch or turn the ignition to off.

Look at the CCU. What is the number written on it? It really sounds like a non turbo CCU being used with a turbo electric actuator. Not viable.

scrip7

iTrader: (6)

With that said, there should be no problem ascending a hill during cruise and maintaining a set speed with his n/a vacuum actuator, with vacuum levels dropping under acceleration, whether in boost or not. I don't think so.

There is a reason Mazda chose to use an electric actuator on turbo models and not on n/a models. I'd like to hear your explanation for that. This should be interesting.

RoughRex

Ok.. following up now that I have both actuators to look at, the cable IS also removeable on the electric unit and it is longer. you may need to swap the cables for it to work. Also, I noticed that you said there is no MAIN light illuminating on the swith when you press the main power button. It's possible that the bulb is burned out but it makes me question the functionality of the cruise computer...

I still think your best bet is to put the N/A parts back in the car with the turbo cable.