Lynx

Ok i have a 87 TII that im trying to work out all the bugs. Of course the idle sucks. I dont have problems dying it just sticks to high. You start it anf the idle is alright like 900 thats not to bad you turn on the AC and the air supply valve works, it drops a sec then comes back up. The prob is as soon as you rev it and it comes back down is sticks at like 1350 and the only way to drop it is to hold the brake and slip the clutch alittle and force the idle down and it brings it back down. OK what i have done:

1)Checked everything for vac leaks and repllaced everhose i could, also spayed WD all over checking. (has good Vac at ilde like 18psi)

2)Set the TPS and timing properly

3)Made sure the initial set connector was dissconnected

4) checked BAC 12ohm OK and it clicks with power

5)But i dont get nothing when i unplug it, Aslo made sure it ahd good connection.

6)(with engine warm)Ok so i got a 10K ohm resistor and put it on the BAC connector and then Checked the AC volts across it with the Key on. Its suppoesed to be 6-7volts and 5 or less would be abd ECU. Well I got a "HUGE" 17 volts AC.

Is the ECU shot or is somthing else causeing this? The car other wise runs pretty powerful.

Lynx

P.S. While im asking are the side seals spring loaded like the Apex seals? (Doing ATF soak soon just courious if it helps the side seals too.)

HAILERS

Yes, the side seals do have a spring under them. About the idle. It seems a good place to start is to jumper the initial set coupler and try to set the idle. Pull the plug on the BAC while doing this just to make sure its not inadvertantly messing you up. I went thru this screwed up idle on a rebuilt 87t a few months ago. My major problem was a cracked TID where it connects to the turbo and secondly the fast idle screw was off along with the throttle plate initial gap (.018 or so). The fast idle cam and thermowax were off also. It was a pain to check these items due to the intercooler coming on and off and having to remove the throttle body to check the butterflies, but did solve my problems. A fellow named Kaegleas(mis-spell probably) came up with the idea of throwing the cooler to the side and temporarialy using pvc pipe to act as the cooler. That way you can run the engine and get at the screws whereas with the cooler you cannot. A straight piece of pvc and a 90 degree elbow work. Maybe five bucks. I found my leak at the turbo by getting under the car with it running and spraying starter fluid at the connection. ON the idle, did you look at the rich/lean pot to see if its cranked full rich? Plays a part in the idle, but I think you have a slight vac leak or the fast idle cam is off.