2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Crank, no spark.

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Old Jan 24, 2025 | 05:04 PM
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Kazmon's Avatar
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From: florida
Crank, no spark.

1986 N/A

This issue started after I replaced the alternator and removed the throttle body to make adjustments as my idle was out of whack. I replaced TB, started, checked idle, stopped engine, removed TB, adjusted, replaced, Repeat- about 3 or 4 times- with the fourth time being the last as i couldnt get the engine to fire again. All of my fuses are good. Compression is good. I couldn’t hear the fuel pump running anymore, so i swapped to a new walbro 255. Still no bueno. I checked resistance on my CAS- good,,, and checked resistance on my AFM, all good except e2+Vc. This is as far as I’ve gone as I’m a little lost as where to go from here, any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old Jan 24, 2025 | 05:31 PM
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From: san diego
Did you check all the fuses, inside the cabin & under the hood? Just bringing it up because there is the one under the dash for the ecu.

Do you have power to the engine harness? should have 12v to your sensors, fuel injectors with ignition on.
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Old Jan 24, 2025 | 06:11 PM
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From: florida
Originally Posted by DR_Knight
Did you check all the fuses, inside the cabin & under the hood? Just bringing it up because there is the one under the dash for the ecu.

Do you have power to the engine harness? should have 12v to your sensors, fuel injectors with ignition on.
Fuses are all good, under dash and under hood. I haven’t specifically checked for voltage but i do smell gas when cranking, so should i assume the injectors are firing?
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Old Jan 25, 2025 | 09:17 AM
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From: Pittsburgh
Like the other poster mentioned, checking for voltage at the ECU and sensors/etc is probably the easiest way to sort this out.

Alternatively, you can ohm out your wiring to the ECU as well.

I had a similar issue that just mysteriously corrected itself twice now.

The other two times were different. Once the fuel pump was bad. There is a fuel check connector. With the feed line disconnected at the engine and stuck in a fuel resistant container. Bridge the check connector and tap the ignition switch. You will see some fuel in the container.
The second thing was a connector that wasn't connected at all. A visual inspection or ohming/voltage check will find this. Best wishes!
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Old Jan 27, 2025 | 08:08 PM
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From: florida
Originally Posted by Jeff76
Like the other poster mentioned, … A visual inspection or ohming/voltage check will find this. Best wishes!
Okay, I will be able to check on these things this weekend, thank you. It’s difficult to find time during the week but I will let yall know what i find as soon i can. Thanks
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Old Jan 28, 2025 | 09:12 AM
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From: san diego
You smelling gas is probably a sign the ecu is working but should verify. How were you verifying no spark? Are you aware of the common problem of leaking fuel injectors causing the engine to flood? Have you tried pulling spark plug wires & verifying spark. Should pull the plugs and look at the tips to see if they’re wet, cranking the engine over with no plugs to deflood the engine. Good idea to try new dry plugs.
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Old Jan 28, 2025 | 12:11 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
pretty much if the ECU has power and sees an RPM signal, it should spark. also typically it defaults to flooding.
so like if you crank it, and smell fuel in the exhaust, its getting fuel, and probably flooded
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