Could use some help from a certain mod... (vert problem)
 

Icemark,

Could use a bit of help here. The wife's vert top wont go back up, I have swapped the switch out, no fix. When I use the diag plug, it blows the fuse. Any ideas?

I cant find the wiring diag for the 89 vert in the FSM...

ill take a stab in the dark, could the wiring to the motors be ungrounded?

If there wasn't a ground somewhere the fuse wouldn't blow.

Why not PM him.

Because PMs aren't searchable.. If someone else has the same issue, then when I fix it I want everyone to know what fixed it.

so voltage is coming out of the switch when you activate it? you will have to start ripping the car apart and metering the circuit

http://s8.photobucket.com/albums/a47...ng/Vert%20Top/ :)

Most ground points are shared by several circuits. If the motors' ground point was disconnected plenty of other stuff would stop working as well.

looking at that diagram... could something be screwed up in the CPU?

Also: http://www.rotorwiki.com/images/6/6c...ngDiagrams.pdf

Yep, a bad horn relay in the CPU is the most common cause of horn failure. You can replace the CPU with a used one, replace the relay in your CPU or even bypass the CPU entirely with another externally mounted relay.

Oops, I think I got this thread confused with another one... :dunce:

To correctly answer the question, the CPU has nothing to do with the roof control.

well it looks like there is some kind of separate CPU (not the body computer, but it says CPU right there in the diagram for the motor) in the RH convertible motor assembly. but that motor is only for opening the top, not closing it?

anyway, checking that G/W wire would be a good place to start. just my two cents.

Yeah, I am not sure where to start. I know that when I jumper the roof up on the diag plug, it frys the fuse. Guess I just have to tear it apart..

Was the top always smoothly opening and closing? Or did it have any rough/tight spots?

I've seen a *smiliar* problem due to binding/wearing linkages.

No, it goes up and down fine (when it works). I just works intermittently.

Sorry just seeing this thread today.

Okay lets start with the basics... at the diagnostic plug there should be the Black/yellow, red/white and Green/White wires as well as black and Light Green.

Turning the key to the ON position the Black/yellow should have 12 volts on it. Black is ground.

With the key on, if we jump the Black/yellow wire to the red/white, the roof should open (as long as it is unlatched in the front).

If it is already open (and the key is on) and we jump the black/yellow to the Green/white the roof should close.

Now the other biggy is the parking brake feed. If the parking brake light does not light up, when you have the car running and you pull the brake up, then the top won't work.

So have we been jumpering the wires correctly to test?

Shit then, I'm out :rofl:

Yep, when you jumper it to open, it works fine(the top opens). when you jumper it to close, it pops the fuse. As of now, the top is stuck down.

Then that points to either a bad motor or a pinched wire.

If you meter the Grn/Wht does it rest at a perfect ground or does it have a couple of ohms of resistance?

Gotta wait till the wifey brings the car home tonight. She insisted on driving it even though the top is stuck down. She is a bit strange..

:)

Where would I look for pinched wires?

was there any work done recently on the passengers side, or spare tire area, or underhood? Those are the most common pinch spots

Okay, I will start looking when she gets home.

So it does. Well, nobody said the FSM couldn't be confusing at times. :p:

Are you sure on that? I was told when I did my turbo swap in my vert that if I put the turbo ecu the top would not work? Its a s5. Would a j-spec ecu work then? Just a thought I had. Thanks

To correctly answer the question, the CPU has nothing to do with the roof control.[/QUOTE]

Not exactly.

There is the CPU that is the body computer found in the drivers kick panel, and the power roof CPU that is built into the right side roof motor.

And I am not sure about what harness the power top underhood/ diagnostic plug is in on a S5. If it is part of the engine harness (which I don't believe that it is), then yes you would need the correct engine harness for a convertible or re-wire the harness. Again, I am not sure about S5 models if they run the top controls through the engine harness as I try and avoid S5 models at all cost.

Okay Ice, I think you might be a bit befuddled here...:)

Black/white is 12 V

Green/white is close

Red/white is open

(this is a vert SANS airbag)

Is there a way to manally raise this thing?

Yeah, just pull

Serious?

And where is the E-brake switch, by the e-brake?

Yep... its just very heavy, as the roll bar is about 100 lbs

Yep, remove the cover to the E-brake and you will see it.

And are you sure about those wires???

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1192581821

Yeah, as I read that, B/Y is your 12V feed.

R/W is open,

G/W is close.

Black is ground, and the light green is warning... Unless I am reading it all wrong.

IceMark im just wondering why you say you stay away from S5's at all cost, just curious.

OP, when i first bought my s5 vert the motors were shot so I disconnected the main lift arms, and just lifted it up and down whenever i needed to, wasn't bad at all, but with new motors its just so neat to have it go up and down on its own.

Matt

I pulled up the carpet around the E-brake and found a sensor. If i Messed with it in made the brake light on the dash flicker. Same sensor?

So me and the wife just went and pulled on it with everything we had.. It wont budge.

Yep, the top won't close unless the light is on.

Ground the wire at the sensor, it sounds like your top should work after that

Oh, the light is on, top still wont work. LIke i said, we just cranked on it with everything we had.. It wont budge from the downzors position.

Even from the diagnostic plug? Do you hear it beeping? trying to close???

Even from the Diag plug. No beeping, nothing. It doesnt even load down the system.

If I can get to the LH motor maybe I can make sure the 12 V is coming down the G/W line?

Crap...

Judging from the looks of it I am screwz0red unless I can get that damn top up...

Yeah, that would be my next step... going to the motors, disconnecting them and seeing if I can pop up the roof (maybe the one motor is trying to retract the roof and that is why it is so hard to pull it up).

Well, here is where I am at..

I verified that if you move the switch to close, 12 V is applied to the G/W line at the left hand motor. So... Possible CPU problem? That would explain the intermittent nature of the problem up till now...

Is the CPU part of that LH motor? If so I will remove it, take it to work, and reflow the solder work.

Looks like the CPU is part of the RH motor. I give for the evening. Least I know the switch works!

Yep, you next step will be checking at the motor

You've missed out an important step, as explained in the owners manual. ;)

http://www.cabrio7.org/rx7man1.html

J-Rat, click on "If the top cannot be raised using the switch" and follow the instructions.

Whoops you are right... I guess I have already started to forget since I have not had a vert for 9 months now

Thank you!!!!!!

Sorry to hijack, but verts are equipped with roll bars?

This may sound like a newb question, but if I perform that procedure, will I be able to relock the mechanisms at a later date?

Okay, top is up. When I go to the down position, the motors work (beeps and everything). When I go to the UP position, I get nothing..

Bad limit switch, left hand motor!!!


HELLS YEAH!!!!

W00T!!!!!

Thanks for all the help everyone!!