Derpderp

Nothing is firing at the moment.. These coils are new too.

satch

iTrader: (1)

At the leading coil does the B/Y wire have voltage w/key to on?

Does pin 3I at the ECU have voltage w/key to on?

Are you sure the ECU is grounded?

Are the coils firmly grounded to the fender?

Derpderp

Alright, broke out the multimeter

B/Y wire at the coil tested good
All the plug wires tested good
Ground to the middle connector on the ecu was good
And the 3I plug was good

Crap.

satch

iTrader: (1)

There are 4 grounds at the ECU, which one did you test? Have you looked at the CAS as it is vital for spark to occur. You could remove the largest plug at the ECU and do an ohm test between pin 1N (Green wire) and 1P (Blue) and it should read between 110 to 210 ohms. Do the same thing for pin 1T (Red) and 1Q (White). Might as well clean up the plug at the CAS if need be.

Are the coil/igniters firmly bolted to the fender? This is how they find a ground. W/o the ground they won't fire.

Derpderp

Does the key have to be in on position or cranking for those?

satch

iTrader: (1)

When testing for ohms you definitely don't need the key.

Derpderp

Alright, in that case neither showed anything. Not even a blip.

satch

iTrader: (1)

So with the meter set to ohms and the plug (largest plug located on the far right) removed from the ECU you stuck one lead into one pin as noted and the other meter lead into the other required pin and you got no reading?

Derpderp

I used the ecu connector diagram from the fsm

fifth and sixth on the bottom row
3rd on the bottom and 4th on the top row

Neither showed anything, meter remained at '1

satch

iTrader: (1)

If you read these pins from the left to right then those are the correct positions. Now if you have your meter set to ohms (not volts) and touch both the meter leads together does it register 0?

Derpderp

Yes

satch

iTrader: (1)

Why did you have to say yes?

Go to the CAS and disconnect the plug and focus on the short harness coming out of the CAS and situate the plug where the plastic nub on the outside of the plug is positioned on top. Then take an ohm reading on the two terminals on the right half of the plug (upper right and lower right) and then do the same for the left side two terminals as well.

Derpderp

Just got back from doing that. I got the proper ohms from the wires going directly to the cas, however got nothing from the wires going to the ecu. I guess I'm finally getting somewhere.

Could this also explain my previous problems of no idle/hard to start/etc?

satch

iTrader: (1)

If the readings at the disconnected ECU plug are accurate then that would definitely cause some running problems. I hate to beat a dead horse but are you sure your meter terminals were making good contact with the ECU plug pins in a sufficient manner? If need be, place two paper clips into the back of the pin positions w/o them touching and take another reading if need be.

Also, look above and to the right of the ECU and check for any connections involving two plugs which appear to not be mated in a proper fashion. Actually, before doing this take a voltage reading on pin 1O (as in the letter o) with the plug connected to the ECU. If the mileage on the car is between 100 to 120 k or 200 to 220 k then it should read about 12 volts w/key to on. If the mileage does not fall within those parameters then the voltage will be below 1.5 volts. No reading would suggest a disconnected plug in the area I spoke about.

EDIT:

In looking at the wiring diagram I forgot that the wires at the CAS do not go straight to the ECU as there is an intermediate 4 wire plug located near the Brake master cylinder/Main relay area. If this connection is poor that would be one explanation for your CAS readings at the ECU plug.

Derpderp

1O had a couple of volts to it. Car has 87k on the clock

I fiddled around with the connector near the MC, it was getting the proper resistance on the side leading to the cas

satch

iTrader: (1)

Then the problem would seem to lie on the other side of said connector. Disconnect this plug by the MC and leave the large plug off of the ECU and conduct an ohm test and or continuity test on each of the four solid colored wires.

Derpderp

No resistance going to the ECU

jjwalker

I just did this yesterday, and I didn't screw anything up.

Granted I was jump starting my neighbors chevy, still. I guess I'm lucky his battery was deader than a door nail.

satch

iTrader: (1)

You took the resistance measurement at the plug located near the MC on the side of the plug closest to the CAS if I understood correctly. How about doing the same test on the "other side" of the plug and see if the plug connection is the problem or not. Also, when you did the ohm test at the ECU plug did you stick the meter probes into the back of the plug or not?

Derpderp

This started up after I removed the safc, is there something special done to rotaries when you hook them up? All the wires were put back in proper order.

When you say to put the meter plugs into the back of the plug, do you mean the side all the wires are coming out of? I just pulled it off and stuck it in the holes that connect to the ecu

And out of curiosity, what is the small brown relay that's about a foot down the line from the ecu plugs?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Into the back of the plug where the wires come out. You said the CAS ohmed out properly when you measured it from the plug near the master cylinder that was on the side leading to the CAS thus the next logical step would be to take the same type of measurement from the other side of the connector which would be the side that leads to the ECU. Placing the meter leads inside the front of the plug makes it hard for the meter leads to make good contact so placing them into the back of the plug makes for a snug fit and an accurate reading.

Not familiar with the relay you mention w/o pics or a description of the wires connected to it.

Derpderp

It's just a small brown regulator with two prongs, one has two blue and orange wires leading into it and with one wire going to 2M (pressure regulator control valve?) and the other leading father down into the harness. The other prong has a green and black hooked to it that also continues down into the bundle of wires.

I checked voltage at 2M with the key 'on' and it read around 2v with the regulator both in and out...

Derpderp

On second thought I think this may the the wire to the narrowband the PO installed

Derpderp

Bit of a necrobump

I have gotten the car running and it idles nicely when warm, but there is some severe backfire on decel as you can see in the video. I have tested the TPS and it showed normal 1.8kohms when closed but at wot would reach almost 7. Could this be the problem or should I look elsewhere.

<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="480" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/vila-JK4uBY?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

satch

iTrader: (1)

The TPS should read 1 volt on the Green/Red wire when fully warmed up which actually takes some time to accomplish. So at idle the G/R reads 1 volt and as you press down on the throttle the TPS piston will extend outward and when it is fully extended the voltage should read about 4.5 volts if I remember right. Does yours do this? The Anti Afterburn Valve located in the ACV also can contribute to back firing besides the TPS. The FSM has a fairly quick and easy way to check if it works properly.

To check the valve remove the hose that runs from the ACV to the air pump at the air pump and raise the engine speed to 3,000 rpm and pull off the throttle in a quick manner and there should be vacuum at the hose end for a few seconds or so.