i have a streetported JDM 90TII engine in an 88 TII body. stock turbo and ported wastegate. 15row greedy I\C up front. efan to cool it but its not cooling it enough. my engine bay is running WAY too hot. anybody have any good ways to further cool the rad?

 

15row greedy I\C?

How thick is this intercooler?

 

thick... too thick for the front end... anyone have any good ideas. i have a flexlite 150 too. running all the time...

 

*in your signature* 1980 AE-SOLD!

I didnt know they made 1st gen AE's??

Check your thermostat is operational; throw in a a pot of boiling water and see if it opens. Are you running the plastic tray under the engine bay? ALso, are you sure that your fan is operational?

 

answered one of my own questions.

 

plastis tray is on. tstat should be working... im gonna check it once my engine isnt 10K degrees.... ha

and yes, they did make 1st gen 10AE's. theyre just rare
and it isnt sold anymore, its chillen in my garage begging me to drive it around again.

 

Wow, never heard of them! What was the special features of the 1st gen AE's?

Good good, check the Tstat. I'd say thats the most obvious solution right now... exactly how hot is your motor running?

 

tstat is running perfectly. temp climbs up to 100C (would go higher but i stop and wait for it too cool) consistant at 94 with heat blasting in my face. im really considering a new fan. i think the combo of a large fmic and A/C is starving the rad. i need a bigger fan and i may attempt to draw air from the top hood scoop to be blown onto the rad. ill wait till summer for that though... ive had a few ideas cross my mind.

i dont think if there were any really special features. it was red, moon roof. honeycomb alum. wheels. 12a. anniversary badges. hauled *** for a 12a though.. haha

 

Only 10AE I know of is a 1988 model. Is this the one for the 10th year they were selling cars or somethinglike that?

*edit* oh yeah.. cooling prob huh. What's the mix on coolant? Is it just not getting enough air through the radiator?

 

i believe it was the 10th year of successfully selling cars in nothern america. a bit of a milestone i guess..

mix is 50-50. the flexalite is pushing, i think, about 2800 cfm. im going to start searching for something along the lines of 3800-4000 cfm. i think that should do it.

 

The problem with electric fans is that these fans are usually rated at a specific static pressure (or s.p. this a measure of the resistance the fan is working against). What you have done with the radiator, the 15 row IC, and the A/C condenser is increase the s.p. Just because your fan is rated 2800 cfm, that doesn't mean that the fan is moving that much air against the resistance it sees in your situation. And the new one at 3800 might be more or less sensitive to the s.p. Engineers design the fan for the s.p. load so that they move the correct amount of air to remove the calculated heat. You have both raised the s.p. (which decreases the air moved) and greatly increased the heat load. This means less air removing more heat. No wonder you are having cooling problems. This is a good example of what I consider the law of unintended consequences. We run into this crap all the time when we mod cars; just part of the game.

You see, this is now becoming a crap-shoot. Designing around issues such as this is why car companies have engineers. You will be better off to replace the stock visco-fan. At least as it senses the increased heat load it will work harder. The electric fan is just doing all it can. There is no guarentee that a 'bigger' fan will move that much more air.

You could also put in a pusher fan in front of the a/c condenser, if there is room.

Good luck with the car.

 

has anyone checked the water pump?

i've seen massive I/C cores on naturally hot engines such as the 13BT, 2JZ and none of them ever had any heating issues.

i'd think it would be in cooling system itself and not airflow related, if it was airflow related, you're probably have too big an I/C for your power level


just my $.02

 

I\C fine. im upgrading the turbo in the future anyways.

im thinnking about putting a pusher between the I\C and a\c condenser. or anywhere else it will work. what i dont get is that ive seen cars that wre much more modded thatn mine, with little to no cooling issue.

and is there any way to test the water pump easily?

 

not that i know of. just get a new pump and tstat. i dont remember quite exactly but somewhere on here i saw someone who was selling 160* tstats. you should look into that as well

 

since we're on this cooling/heating topic. Ill throw a post in...

if your Water/Coolant seals (inside the engine) are torn, or in no good condition. Would you see oil in your coolant? if not, then under what conditions would you see oil in your coolant? I cant think of anything else besides having internal damage.

Thanks!

 

either a **** port jobs, or yes, damaged seals.

tstat is fine. i testedit and it works perfectly. its registered for 82C. which is roughly 160F.

todays idea is this. im taking my flexalite off and rad off, putting the flexalite in FRONT of the rad so it PUSHES air into the engine bay. im going to get a taurus fan or a merc. fan (the dual one, from a mystique iirc) remove the blades and flip them over so it becomes a puller. i believe this should aid in the heat situation, if not solve it. but i hvaent really looking too far into this idea yet. im getting a new fan no matter what though.

the only problemsi can think are:
1. Space to fit everything
2. Power consumption.
I got a upgraded batt. (like heavy duty) that registers 13.75V on my microtech. that should take care of the power issue, but ill still add a few things in for extra precautions.

Anybody have any input on this idea?

 

I didn't see it mentioned anywhere... do you have an upgraded radiator?

 

i see. sounds good. Also, have you heard of Evans coolant? I believe its the Evans NPG+ or NPGR. I heard its an awesome product, would it function correctly on a Rotary? Last I checked the boiling spot is at about 350 degrees. Im sure no rotary SHOULD get that HOT but, if it is indeed true. That would just show the strength and stability.

Pineapple Racing sales them, and has good comments about it. Here's Evans page.

http://www.evanscooling.com/html/npgPls.htm

One more thing, switching coolant requires a complete system flush? This includes Engine, and Radiator. I have plenty of write ups on how to flush it completely. Is there anything else I should be aware of?

My car can be heat challenged sometimes. Either way its on the road for a rebuild I just wanna do several projects, tests until then.

Thanks in advance!

 

no i havent heard of evans, ill prolly just stick to 50-50. the boiling point increase would help stability, but it also but hurt the seals. prolly not, but i dont like risks.. hahaha.

fan is a flexalite black magic 150 pusher. i guess that could be sonsidered an upgrade..

 

Cool. My blackmagic e-fan is on its way. I can only hope I install it correctly haha =P

 

its easy stuff. but i fried the circut on mine... now im running it direct with a manual switch in the cockpit

 

LOL oh nooO! Yes... I think I should refer to other manuals... or sources for this one. I can be pretty handy with electric components... or ... can i?

 

anybody else have any comments about my fan idea?

 

Stock radiator?

 

I went back and looked at this. Do you have an aftermarket guage?

Why do you think that 100C is dangerous? If that is the upper temp and it stabilizes, you may be ok for awhile. Check out this link from ReTed:

http://www.fc3spro.com/TECH/MODS/EL/GAUGES/wtemp.htm

You are probably ok and have some time to work on this.

BTW, after you do all that blade and fan reversal, check each fan by itself and make sure that it ends up blowing the correct way. I have seen some pretty smart guys get it backward with both a pusher and puller canceling each other out.

Good Luck!

Don't think about using the Evans coolant while you are having cooling issues. Fix the cooling issues first, then switch to the Evans NPG+ if you want.