Bunchies

iTrader: (1)

You might as well contact a shop that actually knows what it's doing. I personally, would NOT trust any store like napa or pepboys to give me any advice about my car, especially when it's possible that they may not understand rotary engines quite as well as they do other sorts of internal combustion devices.

In short, since you're near the bay area, you should call a local shop and ask them what they use. I know that Rotary Extreme is in Fremont. Their phone number is 510-683-8850. It couldn't hurt to give them a call and ask about it. I'm sure they know just a tiny bit more than pepboys does.

BuujinBejiita

iTrader: (4)

Well if someone stated this sorry but I did not read the whole thread. I work at a shop where we do radiator flushes so I know a bit about coolant. DexCool is just GMS form of coolant, just like motorcraft is Fords brand of oil. I would not use DexCool in a non-GM vehicle just as the reason being it is not for a non-GM vehicle. Ford has a new coolant but I forgot the name and it is a really light orange almost pink colored coolant. Seeing how Ford now owns Mazda that is my best guess to being as why a parts store would suggest using it. As for coolant to use, us a already premixed 50/50 green coolant. And for a flush kit just get the Prestone coolant flush kit.

Marcus_F

Yes, that's it. Get another opinion. Ask Icemark. When and if he says DexCool is crap, you can move on to the next testimonial. Who cares what the Zerex technical director has to say? He only has a PhD and works for Zerex. Forget the fact that Zerex themselves savs that DexCool isn't for your car. What could the manufacturer of the product possibly know that the "clerks from Pep Boys" don't? Toss aside the fact that DexCool is for GM vehicles built after 1996 and Saab's built ofter 2003. Not to mention the fact that it doesn't even work right in it's intended application - http://www.consumeraffairs.com/autom...m_dexcool.html Disregard the fact that there are DOZENS of individual lawsuits and any number of websites asking people to sign up for class action lawsuits because DexCool has devoured their cooling systems.

http://www.cwcd.com/dexcool.php
http://www.injuryboard.com/view.cfm/Topic=1095
http://www.lawcash.com/settlement/la...docket&ID=2574

Just dump that crap in your car and drive it like you stole it. The Rx-7 community needs more parts cars. I'd say in six months you'll be ready for a donation.

darksider

the question for icemark was to ask him what he uses specifically. and i stated "LIKE icemark" meaning someone with the experience and knowledge. i never neglected the facts from zerex about the Dex-Cool. thats is why i DIDNT use it and was searching for more information. its kind of common sense to know that different chemical chemistry will destroy you radiator and motor. you didnt really have to state that, but since you think your so smart, why dont you do all of us a favor and tell us what you use. thanks

ohh and again im sorry if im comming off as a jackass. im jstt caught up in the middle. i mean certified machanics tell me one thing and you guys tell me another. i just want to get it right. sorry agian.

darksider

ohh one more thing i call a lot of shops and they got a new chart for the Zerex coolant and it states ZXEL1 (orange) for all mazda. so the guys at zerex with the phd like to be hippacrits.

Marcus_F

It’s your car, run whatever you want. If you want someone with more experience than me, more power to you. I’m just a guy who does his own maintenance and who personally put over 367,000 miles on his original S5 engine before having it fail.

BTW, here’s a link to the current Zerex application chart.

http://www.valvoline.com/zerex/pdf/Z...olantChart.pdf

As you can see for yourself, Zerex doesn’t recommend DexCool for ANYTHING built before 1996. Rather than Zerex being hypocritical, it really sounds like your sources don’t know what they’re talking about.

But like I said, it’s you car, use whatever you want.

fidelity101

iTrader: (11)

Can't you just run straight water on it? I mean its the summer.

Bunchies

iTrader: (1)

I don't understand what's so difficult about listening to a nearly unanimous opinion in not recommending dexcool.

Would you rather believe rotary owners or some clerks at an autoparts store that probably can't even tell you how a rotary works?

Like I said before, give those rotary shops a call and ask them what they use.

darksider

you guys are making this bigger then it has to be. you guys shop at napa and peps. why dont you just tell me what you guys get for coolant? DONE, thats i all ask man.

darksider

i feel you man, youre just looking out for the community. i just dont unerstand why their charts says orange for all mazdas but online its different. i cetainly trust you guys more then them so what should i get besides that stuff online? i dont really want to wait.

thanks

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Because it contains no corrosion inhibitors, no water pump lubrication, could freeze if he forgets to remove it before the cold weather, etc. Running pure water in a steet car is always a bad idea.

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

Marcus_F, how did you get 367,000 miles on your engine? What fluids & mods do you have?

darksider

yea i wondering the same thing, was it freeway miles? did it acually leak coolant/oil at around 200ks but it wasnt bad so you drove it untill it gave? or was it running with no problems down to 376ks (leaking no coolant/oil) and then just gave?

Marcus_F

It ran fine until the coolant seal went. No fluid leaks of any kind, Burned about a quart of oil every 1000-1500 miles, good fuel economy, good power, no hot start issues - ran great until the coolant seal went at 367,000 miles. It did smoke some on cold start for the last 60K or so. All I did was normal maintenance - radiator, water pump, brake MC, clutch hydraulics, oil cooler lines, tons of brake pads, countless sparkplugs, tires, coolant, dino oil (valvoline, castrol, chevron, whatever was on sale), brake fluid, trans oil, axle oil, etc. .

A couple of mods - additional grounds, an upgraded California spec ECU (the ECU $150 upgrade did absolutely nothing – I had a spare N350 ECU and a N351, but they all ran the same), early RB header, late model RB mufflers, Random Tech cat (when it had a cat, RB pre-silencer when it didn’t), RB lightweight flywheel, BBS wheels, Mallory CD ignition, several different electric fans at different points (none of them cooled as well as a mechanical fan), and probably some other junk that I’ve forgotten over the years.

Lots of freeway, lots of street, and lots of southern California canyon runs. Just your average 430,000+ mile 1989 GXL.



The real trick to rotary engine longevity is regular maintenance (oil changes every 5K <3 months or so for me>, yearly coolant changes, annual sparkplug changes, bi-annual brake fluid changes, transmission fluid every three years, fixing everthing as soon as it breaks), and SoCal RX-Club!

darksider

basically true love. so is there anything i should know about zerex ZX001 (yeah its green) before i put it in?

also what is all this talk about running coolant with no pressure? it builds pressure to circulate right?

i empty out some of my coolant today and it realy does look like a faded orange. whiped some up with a white paper towel and it looks some what orange. im going to drain the whole thing out in a clear container to see if it really is orange.

so its possible the coolant that was once green truned orange brown over use? i know someone answer this already but i would like some more input. thanks

MIGHTYMAX

How much coolant does a rx-7 take?

Marcus_F

An NA with a fresh rebuild will hold 7.7 quarts. A TII will hold a quart and a half more. Even with the block plug I could never get all the coolant out on a simple change. About 7 quarts for an NA.

fidelity101

iTrader: (11)

how is it bad, like what if he lives in a warming climate and it doesnt freeze at all. I think it would be fine.

MIGHTYMAX

Is that for a stock radiator? I just bought a new koyo radiator. Would it take the same amount? Thanks

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

What is hard to understand about "no corrosion inhibitors and no water pump lubricant"?

I can always tell an engine that has had straight water run in it because the water jacket is FULL of rust and the housings are dissolved to the point where they start to become useless for anything other then bookends...

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

I don't think he understands what that means. Let me simplify:

Straight water will rust your engine.
Antifreeze "oils" your water pump. Your pump will jam without it.

Marcus_F

I don’t know what the capacity is on a Koyo radiator. If it has a higher volume than the stock radiator, I’d use additional distilled water to make up the difference. “Additional distilled water” meaning rather than a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water, having a higher proportion of water (40/60 for example) but ALWAYS having it mixed with antifreeze. People who don’t see the problem with straight water may not have seen a disassembled an engine – piston or rotary. Water devours aluminum. This is what can happen to a rotor housing that’s run on water. At this point, it’s good for nothing.

darksider

i guess yall just missed it...

thanks

darksider

so no bleed plug for n/a's?

please explain the pressure thing to me. i have decided to use green.

thanks for all the help so far.

darksider

aight so i located the radiator drain and the engine drain plugs. for the engine drain plug do i just let it spill out onto the engine mount and what evers in the way? i begining to think i should get the flush n fill.