I have a 86 Sport with a fried coolant seal somewhere around the compression/exhaust stroke. My car is not burning coolant, but instead bubbling all my coolant to the overflow.

Heres my proposition: Could I cycle the coolant back into the system back via the lower rad hose. I found a JAZ overflow with a nipple on the top and bottom of the tank for $25. My theory is that, is there some way to get the air from the coolant seal leak out (via check valve?), but get the coolant back into the radiator through vaccuum in the lower rad hose?

Heres a link to the overflow.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...51518_-1_11797

PS, I plan on rebuilding my motor this Christmas, but am currently at college. This would simply be to keep my car driveable and limp my way through the fall.

-Alex

 

sorry i'm a little lost....were in the car is the compression/exhaust stroke???

 

I do not know EXACTLY where the seal is leaking, but I do know there is possitive pressure into the coolant rather than leaking around the intake and actually burning coolant. The combusted gases push outwards and INTO the coolant.

Ive make a mock up of how Id have it set up. Note, the check valve would be necessary to vent the combustion gases so the overflow wouldnt become pressurized.

 

The rotor spins, compresses/intakes, spins some more, compression/exhaust, etc...


Thats just a quick explanation, not exactly correct to all standards...

 

The car should still be drivable with a coolant seal failure however the engine will flood and continue to degrade until it doesn't start anymore. I don't see how your band-aid would help anything. Also please remember that coolant sitting still inside the engine will quickly corrode it.

 

so how would you keep the coolant from seeping into the chamber this way?? If the seal is broken it WILL leak coolant into the chamber when it's not running so I don't see what you're trying to do nor do i see how it would work with the internal coolant seal compromised.

 

I know that it will leak back into the engine when not running. This is not my first bad coolant seal. My problem is that, after ~45minutes, enough coolant gets pushed to the overflow that my engine starts to run hot. This is not a permenant fix, just a band-aid to get me through the fall.

 

Sorry to burst your bubble, but it doesn't matter where your leak is, the engine is screwed. Mine was doing the exact same thing: bubbling a bit and slightly pressurizing the coolant system. As long as I transfered the coolant from the overflow tank back to the filler neck it worked just fine, no burning coolant or anything. Then, suddenly and for no apparent reason, it started spewing coolant everywhere and blowing massive smoke.
The verdict: A ruptured water jacket, like most coolant leaks. Basically, when the crack is small it doesn't really burn coolant but it will have some blown coolant seal symptoms. Eventually, though, it WILL fail catastrophically and you will need to pull the motor apart immediately to avoid permanent engine damage from rusting or major overheating.

There is not fix, it will fail. Start saving for a rebuild ASAP.

Oh, I ran mine like this for about 3 months before it finally blew big-time. Every day before I started the car, I would pull coolant from the overflow tank to the filler neck with a cheap-*** vacuum plunger thing I bought from advance auto. It worked great while it lasted.

 

Have you tried Running the Car with the Rad cap loose.That way the Cooling sytem doesn't build up pressure.It's an Old school method,but it may work for a little while.There is another Thing,Called I think:sodium silicate?..I'll have to find it.The guys on a local car forum swear by it.It's Like Glass.it forms in the Grooves of the Hot area and seals it up.Maybe someone Here has heard of it?You get it at a Pharmacy.

 

I KNOW I need to rebuild. It wont be my first rebuild. I am away at school and dont have several days to go home until Christmas. I was just wondering if this would work at all, not cure my motor. As for a blown coolant seal ruining a motor, the original motor in my car had a bad seal and every internal was reusable, minus a cracked coolant casting on the front iron.

 

im have a smilar issue, but i dono for sure. and i need someone to check it for me asap. anyone in mass wana take a look.

 

Get Kwik-way ceramic fix or what someone else suggested in a similar thread a few days ago, blue devil...follow the instructions EXACTLY how it is told.

 

+1

that is the only product that will get you though that year or two while you save for a rebuild.

http://irontite.com/adds.htm