Hello all…I need help with my damn squealy drive belt. (87 mazda rx7) I have only 3 pulls being used... Alternator pulley which I thought was it and maybe had a bad bearing went to spin it and it freely spun. Not alternator... Next is water pump pulley which I replaced a little more than a month ago now. Spins freely as well. Last I have my main eccentric shaft pulley (whatever you wanna call it). That thing is a beast to spin so... No idea there. I have cleaned all the pulley's with a scotch brite rough pad to get rid of debris and maybe rough it it up so the belt doesn't slip. I even bought a new belt fyi, Gates brand. Yes also tried belt conditioner which did not work. So people please toss me some ideas. —

 

Is it tight and taught? Also, you will want to make sure you have two belts looping around the water-pump as it can slip under load sometimes. Also replace the belt since they're cheap anyway.

 

yahoo belt

 

OP said he bought a new belt. You sure you have the tensioner adjusted properly for this? the alternator you loosen up and pull on till the belt is taught, then snug the nuts back up.

You said you have 3 pulleys in use, but said nothing about if you have AC, PS, secondary air pump. These are another 3 possible culprits to your squeely dilemma

 

Is this a new condition?
Why did you replace a waterpump pulley?

And boys, the word is "taut".

 

drain on alternator? locked up bearing? this is all after the belt is taut.

 

I teach my belts things, they sometimes learn from them.

 

Well, I stand connected then.

 

Ok I have no PS, and AC is there but I took the belt off awhile ago because AC does not even correctly work in my car.
Repalacing my water pump was necessary because it was leaking bad and almost had a fried engine a few times. So I replaced the whole thing.
So you think I should put the AC belt on just to give the pulley more grip and spin?
Also… I was informed by a buddy of mine that if the alternator pulley is shiny metal like in the bottom of the groove that this is a sign of ware and the belt will not seat properly causing it to slip no matter how tight I can get it.
THOUGHTS?
Thank you for responses by the way. I can't sleep unless it is fixed and I actually figure out the problem

 

Pic of alternator seated

 

I'd try a slightly shorter belt. Looks like your alternator bracket setting is MAXED out.

 

Ok… So what size belt and how do I know if it is shorter and will fit properly?

 

+1 on the shorter belt. Just take the belt off and bring to you local auto parts store and tell them you want it shorter. They should be able to help you out.

 

usually it is 11a 800 ( metric ) and should be halfway on the tensioner

the metric equiv yahoo belt is 10a 550

i will say it again.. you need this "yahoo" belt if you have removed the airpump. and especially if you retain a clutch fan


go there.. or do not pass go

 

So is this yahoo belt a brand..?

 

its the name pineapple gave to a particular size of belt that fits in the spare airpump valleys and goes just around the main pulley and the water pump without a tensioner
( goes on like a bike chain where you have to turn the engine over to make it stretch on )

google

 

It's "yoohoo" belt...have I taut you people nothing?

 

^lol, clokker is such a crackup.

There's inadequate belt contact with the water pump groove without the second belt. That's why people typically install a dual alternator pulley. The alternate option is rarely used, but if you're really cheap (like auzzies), follow bumpstart's suggestion and use a yoohoo belt. The key is finding the exactly right belt size. Another reason to use a yahoo belt is if you plan on eventually reinstalling your air pump (yeah right). Consider using the search function for more details.

 

while it is cheaper to run the yoohoo type belt .. that is not the reason i choose to use it

in fact i have only just worn out an alternator that i placed on the car many years ago.. brand spanking new,, with twin pulleys

the outside pulley race is still a virgin

i use the yoohoo because .. it works
i pull down and rebuild all my engines and those of others.. 24 yrs and counting .

and i see the wear in the front stat bearings.. caused primarily by running a belt too tight

and usually these are the people who used the breaker bar to lever up the alt to get the belt super tight because a single belt .. or the inside belt on a double,, squeals

on the double.. you put on two new belts..
in a short time one stretches more than the other
and forever more you have one the slips and squeals until you change them out as a pair

of which you get a respite.. for a short time,, and the process repeats

i found that lesson 20+ years ago .. using the car as your daily driver soon puts a sense of perspective on the ongoing cost of the consumables

yes,, your shiny blue or red anodised alum twin pulley may look sexy

but it will eat belts, still squeal and step wear the alum pulley unevenly

if you drive the car once a week.. it may take a while to become apparent
but doing it daily brings home truths

 

Well Since I cannot find the pulley replacement I guess I am just gonna buy an alternator. The alt pulley seems to be fairly dished and not gripping. I am gonna try this so here goes.

 

Fair enough bumpstart, good to know your experience. There certainly can be cons related to the dual alternator belt - it's not a panacea. That said, I've been using a (non-sexy black) dual pulley successfully for 10 years and so have others I know. Not sure why your belts are stretching asymmetrically, when I replace belts in pairs from the same manufacturer I've not had load sharing problems.

Once upon a time, belts were sold in matched pairs to ensure equal lengths - no longer. Iit's uneconomical to stock paired bets for the practically nonexistent applications. Also major belt manufacturers control their manufacturing processes well enough that using any two belts with the same part number results in belts of practically identical length.

Besides, if belts are stretching haphazardly, the yahoo belt would be hit or miss too since there is no tensioner to compensate for the resulting variation. Basically, I agree that the yahoo belt can work although I've avoided it since I prefer the ability to set belt tension, rather than hoping the belt length produces the proper tension via luck.

And to the OP: you don't seem to be listening, a single belt around the water pump without an idler is doomed, new alternator or not.

 

You can relocate the alternator to provide better water pump pulley coverage.
If you're creative, it might go where the air pump used to be (removal of which is what caused this problem to begin with) or, if you don't have PS or AC, there are kits which move it over to the driver side of the block.

 

Ok I got the Tahoo or yoo-hoo belt today. Gonna put it on tomorrow and see how that goes. Along with the AC belt back on to help spin it. I think this should help things. Thanks guys