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Compression #s / advice needed!!

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Old 10-16-11, 04:52 PM
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Compression #s / advice needed!!

Ok, so heres my situation... Been outta the rotary game for a while now, but finally looking for another T2, owned 2 FDs, a few N/A FCs and 3 T2s in the past. I cant remember what a good compression test number is at the moment... what is a new motor? 120psi?

Heres the 2 cars im looking at, ill list all the **** wrong, some specs and price ive got them down to so far, according to both the motors are newish but compression test tells otherwise and i can just tell in general.

I compression tested them with a regular compression tester with the valve pushed in (never failed me for years / all my other rx7s lol) warmed the motors up for 10 mins, let cool a little bit then when cranking throttle was maxed so the intake was open. Tested on trailing plugs


Number 1:


White FC (S4)

Bad:

-Body harness Wiring chopped up so the following does not work

-Windsheild wipers dont work

-Turn signals in front need wiring / dont exist

-heat logicon does not work / not wired

-Does not have heatercore or heat, or any lines for the heatercore

-Paint is all faded

-Bodywork ( lots of minor Surface rust)

-Front bumper has big dent

-95psi on both rotor housings, sounds strong without spark plugs in (is that bad or good... the motor supposedly brand new, but i looked the car up and the motor had 5,000km on it 5 years ago and its a mystery where its been since then)

good:

Microtech LT-10 + Microtech ignitor box
320rwhp @ 10 psi, GT35R, large street port, all supporting mods and no mechanical problems at all

Price ive got down to: $6000






Red FC (S5)

Bad:

-Low compression on rear rotor housing (85psi) Sounds a bit weak when
cranking with trailing spark plugs out, front rotor housing has 110psi

-Body work (1 big dent) / lots of Other minor body damage from being so slammed

-Front bumper cracked / all bodykit is loose / scraped up from being so low

-Paint here and there.. will need a paint job after bodyworks fixed

-Wheels rubbing

-Brakes squeek

-Transmission 2nd gear syncro is odd.. instead of going strait down to 2nd from 1st , it goes to the lower left, hard to explain

-Headlight wiring (headlights dont go up or down)

-big leak out of turbo manifold

-needs a tune really bad

-Gas mileage obviously, lol (250 / tank)

-wiring nightmare here and there

Good:

Microtech LT-8 Freshly rebuilt from Microtech
400rwhp @ 14 psi, new T67 hybrid, Half bridgeport, all supporting mods, has really nice rims

Price ive got down to: $7000









What should i do... any of them worth buyin? or should i just wait lol. Ive got way better deal on better cars but theres nothing out in vancouver right now worth buying. I got a FC with a microtech that just needed a clutch and tune for 3500 once..wish i kept it .
Old 10-17-11, 09:41 PM
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PedoBear

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neither, both are garbage.
Old 10-17-11, 10:25 PM
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buy a stock turbo FC for under 3k and dump the 4 more into it to have your own custom car.
Old 10-17-11, 11:56 PM
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If the same situation apply in BC than in the Quebec province, the clean FCs are getting rare. So, unless you absolutely need one right about now, take your time and search for a good one. There is always an old rich man that kept the cleanest example in a garage for 20 years, that is now willing to sell it for a decent price.

If you've been outta the rotary game for a while, I guess you don't want a come back with a shitload of problems in a crappy car. Unless you're only missing the feeling of having problematic cars.

Two thighs my father always kept telling me:

1st: Do you know what is rarer than a rare car for sale? - Someone to buy it!

2nd: There is amazing deals every weeks... every weeks!
Old 10-21-11, 12:30 AM
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1.3L piston eater

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Thanks for the advice guys.. I ended up finding a 500rwhp on pump gas FD, fully built, brand new everything for 12K. Just needs minor body touchups and perhaps a few giant resonators for the loud full bridgeport idle.. hehehe
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