BluePatrician

I'm sure someone here is going to tell me he's seen this thread basically a hundred times before, but I'm looking for specific questions and answers.

I have a N/A 13B that is in my 88 GXL. I plan on keeping this car and engine for a long time, but also want to push some power out of it. I'm looking for a good mix of reliability and speed. I've yet to do a compression test because it runs fine, but with 180k~ miles on it I know it needs a rebuild.

So, here are my ideas, and I'm wondering if people can point me in the right direction for services/parts.

-Complete rebuild. I'm thinking an overall kit from Atkins Rotary. Would doing the bearings be worth it just for the sake of reliability?

- (Edit) gonna keep the S4 intake due to porting.

-Bigger fuel injectors and oil injectors. Could someone point me in the right direction with these? Based on my goals.

-Upgraded fuel pump and ECU.

-Street Port. Thinking of taking this up to one of the places in LA.

-REW Exhaust Sleeves. Was told these will give an increase flow into my headers.

-REW oil pressure regulator.

-Dowel Pinning reinforcement.
What else should I be looking to do? Thanks in advance guys. Your help makes owning a rotary easier than ever.

professionalpyroman

1. Complete rebuild is a good idea. You won't know what condition the bearings are in until you see them. The FSM has a spec for them.

2a. You will size fuel injectors based on what you want to do. If you want something quick, but not obnoxious, the size your injectors for maybe 25-35% higher flow. These will work with a moderate streetport. This should be reasonable with the stock ecu, or light aftermarket stuff. (This is one of the starting points of the money pit). I prefer RC Engineering injectors, but others may suggest something else.

2b. Oil injectors are oil injectors. All they are are banjo bolts with a vacuum check valve in the top of them. All oil flow related to them can be attributed to OMP duty cycles controlled by the stock ecu.

3. Upgraded fuel pump is ok, a lot of people prefer the walbro 255, but if you don't need to flow that much fuel you can size a pump that is more appropriate as related to your increase in fuel flow from the larger injectors.

4. A mild streetport is about all you need if you are doing a modest level of upgrade.

5,6. Not sure. Stock oil pressure regulator should be fine with what I have listed.

7. Dowel pinning isn't necessary unless you are wanting to put out a lot of power, or just want it absolutely bulletproof. Have to ask if it is worth your expense.

8. (unsolicited) Don't throw away or sell parts until after you have finished this upgrade. Keep using things like solenoids, vaccum devices, EGR stuff, and stock exhaust parts. As long as they are clean and functioning, they help your engine run better. When I first got my car, I did the "delete all the things" as a young man, and have been slowly collecting all that stuff back again so I can enjoy my vehicle. Try to make conservative upgrades, that way the car operates closely to its stock condition. The evap system helps keep the car from stinking, the secondary throttle vacuum system keeps you from grenading your engine when it's cold out. All these little systems help out in some way. Also, replace all your crusty vacuum lines.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

fuel injectors, this is easy, you just need some 88 turbo injectors, probably only the secondaries. the S4 NA's do not run very rich, and so larger injectors plus something like an SAFC would work ok. with the stock injectors and an SAFC, you really can't do much, because it doesn't let you make it richer. if you're going to run a full ecu, the stock injectors are actually fine.

for oil injectors, run the FD ones, N3G1-14-631 i think, more reliable, only the ones in the rotor housing. the two in the intake just need to be checked and if they are good you can put them back.

fuel pump, the NA pump is totally fine, if you had a T2 pump laying around, you might use it, but its not needed.

ECU is really good to have, the stock computer is OLD and SLOW.

the REW oil pressure regulator bumps oil pressure from 71psi to 110psi. if you're going to go racing its nice, if its just a street car its not needed.

dowel pinning is not needed.