Can we have the "definitive" clutch thread? OK, thanks.

Anyway, my basic question is this: Yeah, I know, stage 2 holds more power than stage 1, stage 3 more power than stage 2... But, what I would like to know is, how much more difficult is it to drive around regularly with the higher stage clutches? If you're in a lot of stop and go traffic, is it too much of a PITA to engage/disengage the stronger clutches? Is it basically going to be either the clutch is engaged 100% or disengaged 100%, or can you drive pretty smoothly? I'm looking to get a new clutch, and with the upcoming mods, I'd like to get something stronger, but at the same time, my GF will be driving the car occasionally, and she doesn't quite have the leg power I have.

So, just how difficult are the higher stages to drive? Any reviews on brands or anything?

 

Well i mean i dont know much about the stage 3 clutch on the rotarys but, yea i had a lightened flywheel and a stage 3 clutch was solid and was hard at sometimes in stop and go traffic but i liked it... i mean i loved it alot...but that was in my honda crx... and it was hard and solid.... my mom couldnt drive it because lack of leg power. I dont know that is just my opinion but i loved the stage 3

 

my SPEC stage 2 isnt bad at all and can handle the power as well. also my wife has gotten in and drove it as well so you dont need a huge leg to engage or disengage. but it may help that i have a stainless steel braided clutch line as well.

 

XTD (ebay) Stage 2 6-puck racing clutch

engagement is really sudden, but its nice and light, so not too hard to drive

disadvantage: you have to slip the clutch into every gear, thus destroying your flywheel

 

But how long will it last. You get what you pay for. $150 for a clutch. I'm a little skeptical.

 

I like clutchmaster cluthces and they are all that I use. Pedal feel is nice (to me) firm and predictable. The only thing I did not like was the cost.

 

ok this whole stage thing is more easier for ppl whole dont know much about drivetrain or cars. when in reality i feel that its all depending on the materials used on 3,4,6 puck to full disk and in both sprung and unsprung. i have a friend and i just get so annoyed hearing him argue about his stage 2 bronze clutch is the **** and better then everyones **** when i tell him its just a used clutch 6 puck sprung and aint **** compard to a 3 puck ceramic ( from what i felt driving my friends t2) lol......im tired, correct me if im wrong.......like i said im tired

 

and dont forget the pressure plates. thats another thing

 

For a pretty much stock S5 NA *intake and exhaust* would a stage 1 be fine? I autoX and plan to take it to a few track days but don't want to hurt my tranny or rear end with a stiff clutch that grabs really hard.

 

AHHHHHHHHHHHHH

When did people start using Gran Turismo terms to name car upgrades.

Full face organic, ceramic face, 6 puck copper, and the clamping force of the PP are all you need to classify clutche in a nut shell. Plus that way EVERYONE knows what you're talking about.

But to add to the conversation I know someone who drove a 360HP FC daily with asprung 6 puck clutch and didn't have a problem with it.

 

XTD is a piece of ****. Killed it in 1000 miles. 500 was break in!

P.O.S.

 

i have an act stage 2 4puck clutch.

its perfect in my opinion for daily driving and gets the job done with power shifting/downshifting quickly. its nice and tight and give you a nice feel for the car. it does take some getting use to and is a bit of a work out but nothing too bad. engagement you can slip into and it isn't "on or off".

 

Just installed an ACT 4-puck today.. Got to say, its a very driveable clutch!!!

 

Love ACT's Street/Stip clutch!