clutch woes T2
05-29-10, 09:28 AM
#1
clutch woes T2
I have a funny clutch problem. When the car is cold the peddle is real easy to push to the floor, little resistance. When its warming iit fells like a small restriction halfway down the peddle and when iits hot there is a constant good resistance. The gears do not grind at all. Am I low in tranny fluid? Need to bleed the slave? Or is this bearing? I haven't gone underneath iit yet to look at fluid levels as I am on the road now with no tools. Thanks in advance for anyone help, this is my third standard car and oddly only my first clutch/tranny problem
05-29-10, 07:56 PM
#2
It means 12A all ways^
iTrader: (20)
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Northern IN
Posts: 769
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It could be somthing to do with the pilot bearing starting to get worn. But as long as the clutch works good, and its not grinding or anything funny it should be ok.
05-29-10, 08:32 PM
#3
Check the slave cylinder. Have someone push the clutch pedal when it is cold and see how it moves the fork on the transmission and if anything is snagging it.
Check your fluid in the master.
If everything up to the slave cylinder looks fine, probably a throw out bearing issue where the surface it rides on is pitting/wearing to the point the bearing is getting caught on it (replaceable)....
The pilot bearing is located on the engine and will have no effect on the clutch pedal.
Check your fluid in the master.
If everything up to the slave cylinder looks fine, probably a throw out bearing issue where the surface it rides on is pitting/wearing to the point the bearing is getting caught on it (replaceable)....
The pilot bearing is located on the engine and will have no effect on the clutch pedal.
06-02-10, 05:33 PM
#4
Check the slave cylinder. Have someone push the clutch pedal when it is cold and see how it moves the fork on the transmission and if anything is snagging it.
Check your fluid in the master.
If everything up to the slave cylinder looks fine, probably a throw out bearing issue where the surface it rides on is pitting/wearing to the point the bearing is getting caught on it (replaceable)....
The pilot bearing is located on the engine and will have no effect on the clutch pedal.
Check your fluid in the master.
If everything up to the slave cylinder looks fine, probably a throw out bearing issue where the surface it rides on is pitting/wearing to the point the bearing is getting caught on it (replaceable)....
The pilot bearing is located on the engine and will have no effect on the clutch pedal.
06-02-10, 06:38 PM
#6
Thanks, man. I bled the system and it feels great. Well, almost great. I feel like the clutch grabbs to high which makes me think its on its way out. I'm looking for a new clutch, pressure plate, throw out, and piliot but I'm confused. The pilot is on the engine so does that mean I need a cosmo spec bearing? Or T2? I want to get the best parts I can but not the wrongg ones. Any advice?
06-02-10, 07:16 PM
#7
Cosmo as in eunos cosmo sequenital twinn turbo. If that's the case I do not know where to find a flywheel for it. Does anyone have suggestions? Part number for throwout bearing for my motor? Sorry I'm a rookie but I know better to ask a question now rather then pay for it later. Thanks in advance everyone, its appreciated
Trending Topics
06-02-10, 07:42 PM
#8
Whoever did the swap will know what kind of transmission they used. I would assume they stuck the cosmo engine in front of a TII transmission since we are speaking of FC chassis here. If it is a TII transmission, get the throw out for the TII and as far as the flywheel, if they did put the cosmo engine behind that TII trans, the cosmo engine I believe only came with an automatic transmission. This would mean most likely you already have an aftermarket flywheel with the seperate automatic transmission counterweight if whoever did the swap did it the right way. Otherwise you may find a stock flywheel off some other series rotary powered car in there that fits the criteria for the correct counterweight (stock flywheels have counterweights built into them) to keep the cosmo engine in balance....
If you have the aftermarket flywheel, any 13B aftermarket flywheel (for the correct transmission, n/a, tii) from will bolt right up. Its the counterweight that you need to be careful of....
Don't get me wrong, the cosmo engine in an FC could also be bolted to a N/A transmission, but the same principal applies...
EDIT: Just figured it out for you, you will need to use an S5 Automatic Transmission counterweight with an aftermarket flywheel for the appropriate transmission you have or a stock s5 flywheel for the appropriate transmission. Didn't realize the REW (a.k.a cosmo) was the one in the FD which I already know s5 and FD's use the same counterweights
....
All parts can be found at your local parts store (bearings) or mazdatrix....
If you have the aftermarket flywheel, any 13B aftermarket flywheel (for the correct transmission, n/a, tii) from will bolt right up. Its the counterweight that you need to be careful of....
Don't get me wrong, the cosmo engine in an FC could also be bolted to a N/A transmission, but the same principal applies...
EDIT: Just figured it out for you, you will need to use an S5 Automatic Transmission counterweight with an aftermarket flywheel for the appropriate transmission you have or a stock s5 flywheel for the appropriate transmission. Didn't realize the REW (a.k.a cosmo) was the one in the FD which I already know s5 and FD's use the same counterweights
....All parts can be found at your local parts store (bearings) or mazdatrix....
06-02-10, 08:13 PM
#9
The Cosmo used a 13B-RE, but it's very similar to the 13B-REW. I believe it uses the same 9:1 rotors, so S5 and S6+ counterweights should work.
EDIT: From Ted's site:
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/SWAP/COSMO/13b-re.html
EDIT: From Ted's site:
Transmission
The Cosmo 13B-RE bolts onto the stock FC transmission with no problem. The Cosmo 13B-RE only comes with an automatic transmission option, so it will most likely have a counterweight and flexplate attached; if your engine did not come with a counterweight, you can use a Kouki FC3S/FD3S stock flywheel or automatic counterweight. If you are going to use an aftermarket (lightened) flywheel, the automatic counterweight is required. The automatic transmission counterweight makes it easy to install an aftermarket (lightened) flywheel in this case. Be sure to install a new pilot bearing and pilot bearing seal before installing the clutch.
The Cosmo 13B-RE bolts onto the stock FC transmission with no problem. The Cosmo 13B-RE only comes with an automatic transmission option, so it will most likely have a counterweight and flexplate attached; if your engine did not come with a counterweight, you can use a Kouki FC3S/FD3S stock flywheel or automatic counterweight. If you are going to use an aftermarket (lightened) flywheel, the automatic counterweight is required. The automatic transmission counterweight makes it easy to install an aftermarket (lightened) flywheel in this case. Be sure to install a new pilot bearing and pilot bearing seal before installing the clutch.
Last edited by RotaryRocket88; 06-02-10 at 08:20 PM.
06-03-10, 03:03 PM
#11
Its not an fd motor. From what I thought it is the rew... That's what the apexi says I'm running. I do have the turbos from an fd, as they are stonger then the cosmo turbos. I am under the impression that - have the eunos cosmo motor (5000 made) with something like 235hp stock. But with fd turbos turned up a bit I figured I may be more then the stock fd motor which is 280. Please someone educate me if I'm worng. Thank-you
06-03-10, 03:08 PM
#12
I'm all confused now. I need to get to a laptop annd off my phone. Too many numbers and letters are in my head and making me forget things. I can check more into what I'm going to need to buy and replace and for what motor-transmission its for.
06-03-10, 04:03 PM
#14
rew = FD engine.... regardless the info we gave you will be the same, its up to you to find out what transmission you have....
Just take a look underneath, is the oil pan ribbed or smooth? Does the bellhousing look like it is cast into the gear case or does it look like it's separate?
Just take a look underneath, is the oil pan ribbed or smooth? Does the bellhousing look like it is cast into the gear case or does it look like it's separate?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post