Ok here the deal. Installed a OS Giken super single with new pilot and t/o bearings. Clutch fork is good. Had to adjust pedal rod all the way out to get the clutch to disengage while car is running. So... the question is, is my slave or master cylinder weak and cant push the pp in or is it something else? Clutch fully disengages while pedal is pushed all the way to floor. Shifts just fine, but i cant stand it all the way on the bottom.

 

Im not sure if there is an adjustment to the pedal height of engagement, im sure some one will chime in. But what I would check is ur slave and hose. I had a similar issue issue and replaced both parts. And its good now. Corksport sells a clutch steel braided hose for like 26 bucks shipped.

 

^Mazdatrix one is 21 bucks or something! LOL

 

what was the thickness of the clutch disk? what flywheel are you using?

 

Its the os giken super single stamped steel setup. Clutch pp and flywheel are all one unit. Ill probably order new hydrolics to rule that out.

 

Any other suggestions?

 

Air in system, or properly flushed and bled with new fluid?

 

or the fork pivot broke under the extra stress.

 

Ok so where's the best place to purchase the slave and master cylinder?

 

Correct me if i am wrong, But dont you need a longer throw slave and clutch peddle system with that pressure plate?

 

OS Giken doesn't say anything about needing one on their website, says only for FD. But most single plate/flywheel kits like the OS and Exedy need the "movement alteration kit." OS site shows 2 different kits with different part numbers also, more than likely different counter weights. Was the release bearing and sleeve included with the kit physically smaller than stock? If it is you'll probably need the "movement kit." That's how it is with the OS/Exedy Nissan clutches anyways...

Suggest you call OS or whoever you bought it from for details.

I got my master and slave cylinders from a local Car Quest with free delivery . Specify you have a turbo model as the slave is different than an N/A and is noticeable by the mounting holes on the slave cylinder body.

 

"movement alteration kit" sounds like the old washer under the pivot trick

i know on some of the twin plates you sleeve the slave internal diameter down and get a longer throw for the same pedal effort
some even require a longer candlestick for the thrust bearing carrier to ride ( usually on a toyo box conversion )

however first try to wiggle the slave in its no effort position and see if you can cheat by turning a long bolt down to a slightly longer rod length ,, leaving only minimal wiggle when relaxed

if it does improve.. you may find a balance in doing this and adding the washer behind the pivot screw under the fork


PS.. doing these cheats can get around the missmatch from NA and turbo slaves .. must leave just a little wiggle when done

 

Not familiar with this could you explain how please?

 

whats to explain? unscrew the pivot and add a washer
grab a long coach bolt and turn the ends on a grinder to mimic the rounded ends of the stock slave ,, adjust length to suit so you still retain a little wiggle at the fork in its relaxed position

not rocket science.... have been using an NA slave on a t2 gearbox for years and years,,,, and its running with tranny fluid for a hydraulic medium ,, and has done so last 5 yrs when it was previously passing with brake fluid
== and i have a peddle that at the mid point and not on the floor like most ,, and doesnt ride

 

Ok thanks for the info. Called os giken and it runs stock t/o bearing but a its sleeved to move point of release. Ill try ur trick 1st.