jbreezy

Clutch works fine for about 30 minutes the it starts engaging higher and higher up on the pedal until I can hardly get going in first gear. It doesn't grind or anything. It just feels like it's barely engaging and have to give it more gas to keep from stalling. I don't understand why it works fine when it's cold...Checked the fluid level and it's fiine. HELP!

1987 non-turbo

pip

I had a similar problem, replaced clutch master cylinder and just for kicks added the ss hose both from mazdatrix. Total cost $83 and my clutch has been rocksolid ever since.

turboii87rx7

mine did the same thing, then eventually just went completely... i replaced the master and the slave cylinders and the line (turns out i had a good size slit in my hydraulic line) mine came to about $80 as well... for all 3 --> www.nopi.com
master = $30
slave = $20
www.mazdatrix.com
ss line = $18

83/86Rx7

iTrader: (2)

I just got through sorta haveing the same problem. My clutch wouldn't engage til way up in the pedal at all times. If I got on it hard, the clutch would slip. The clutch was better while it was cold also, wouldn't slip as easily, but got alot worse the longer the I drove, and eventually, just the slightest bit of gas would send it slipping away. I replaced the clutch and discovered there was actually still a fair amount of clutch left ( for the slipping it was doing I figured it had to be close to metal to metal ). Turned out my Slave Cylinder was half frozen. Would engage the clutch, but wouldn't return back all the way, thus, keeping the clutch partially engaged. The rubber brake hose had disinegrated from the inside out, and all the crap ended up in my slave, and afterwards, my master cylinder.

Rotory Nut

The ss hose should fix the bellowing of the older rubber lines. But if it gets worse, i'd agree with with the above, master cylinder.

SureShot

If money it tight, do the master first.