Clutch lines.
10-27-05, 09:58 PM
#1
Clutch lines.
I just purchased and brought home my 89 GXL today. I had to trailer it home but in the few tiem sI had to move it she smoked somethign awful when the clutch was depressed. I mean, acrid awful nasty stuff that came up from the shifter and from under the car. I saw some spots of liquid that was where the car had been when I moved ehr so I do think my clutch line(s) are leakign or have holes in them. I was wondering if this could cause my clutch to slip and is it an wasy process to replace them?
10-27-05, 10:00 PM
#2
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Low clutch fluid I do not think will directly cause the clutch to slip. It will, however, prevent you from disengaging/engaging the clutch. The lines are not hard to replace they are accessible on the driver's side on the firewall. If a lot of fluid has somehow seeped down onto the clutch itself THAT would cause some slippage.
Last edited by AcidShock; 10-27-05 at 10:05 PM.
10-27-05, 10:02 PM
#3
yes that was what I was thinking...since the fluid is burning and the car is not leaking anything else. The clutch seems to engage very late and i have to keep the revs up to nearly 4 grand to get her to move a bit, in first or reverse. I will be getting a clutch kit as soon as I am able to so that is another question, what is about the right set to use for a stock S5 N/A?
10-27-05, 10:07 PM
#4
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Just go with the OEM disc and pressure plate. It has worked this long, it must be decent. 
If you want to go aftermarket, the ACT S/S kit is a good one as well. Make sure that your kit includes a new throwout bearing, pilot bearing, pilot bearing seal, and alignment tool.
If you want to go aftermarket, the ACT S/S kit is a good one as well. Make sure that your kit includes a new throwout bearing, pilot bearing, pilot bearing seal, and alignment tool.
10-27-05, 10:10 PM
#5
Yeah I knew I was going to need those, since Ill be doing that to my 88 SE as soon as I get my other upgrades outta the way....But I cant do any work to it until the 89 is running right. but so far the motor is up to snuff, she purrs all the way to 8 grand and has very little smoke at startup...well...little for sitting for a year and a half.
10-27-05, 10:10 PM
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10-28-05, 01:45 AM
#11
^--- what jono20 said.
If you're replacing the clutch line, I'd go with this: http://mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=4990
$18 stainless steel clutch line.
If you're replacing the clutch line, I'd go with this: http://mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=4990
$18 stainless steel clutch line.
10-28-05, 01:58 AM
#12
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k thnx a bunch guys i found that out by reading aarons mcguiver page on a ghetto tranny pump which actually looks pro imma drain the clutch fluid and the tranny fluid next friday. jono i do see a couple dropps of oil =( and ever since i've notice that it gets pretty hard to shift when the car is cold but when its warm its easier than when its cold but its still not smooth. do u think its my slave cylinder? if so how much would it cost? thnx
11-03-05, 08:33 PM
#14
well I have figured its the slave thats leaking, but until i can afford to monkey in ther i have to let her sit for now. THanks for your help gentlemen, though now i wonder if its possible to do the work with the motor in the car...
11-03-05, 09:40 PM
#15
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What do you mean with the motor in the car? You can absolutely change the slave cylinder with the motor in the car. All you need is 1/4 rachet, an extension, socket, and maybe a universal joint.
11-03-05, 10:23 PM
#16
Originally Posted by AcidShock
What do you mean with the motor in the car? You can absolutely change the slave cylinder with the motor in the car. All you need is 1/4 rachet, an extension, socket, and maybe a universal joint.
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