2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Which clutch hydraulics should I use??

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Old May 25, 2012 | 07:52 PM
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Which clutch hydraulics should I use??

I want to replace the master and slave, but I'm a bit confused.

Car is an 88 Vert, with a 91 tII engine.

So I'm thinking all s5 clutch hydraulics. The slave is easy enough cause its on a s5 tII transmission, but I'm not sure if the master will bolt up to the s4 firewall. Anyone know for sure?
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Old May 25, 2012 | 08:20 PM
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The master cylinder is the same, across all years of FC (maybe even more) turbo or non turbo. The slave cylinder must be from a TII, year matters not.
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Old May 25, 2012 | 08:28 PM
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Yeah, I found that I could have figured that out on MazdaTrix's site.

Now that I've thought about it some more... might be the hose. Something is telling me that the N/A hose is still on the car from the swap.

The clutch works, but engages about 1mm from the floor... no bueno.
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Old May 25, 2012 | 09:45 PM
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The hose shouldn't matter.

Is your pedal's pushrod adjusted correctly? Loosen the nuts and wind it out until you feel a tiny bit of resistance [when it touches the piston in the master cyl.] and back off a quarter turn and tighten it.
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Old May 25, 2012 | 10:16 PM
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keep bleeding it.
I did a total clutch/trans job.Got it in,bled it..yay.
went for a ride and Poof..down to the floor.
air was stuck in the system.
Moral of the story,bleed it til it Screams!
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Old May 25, 2012 | 10:19 PM
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Can it all of a sudden just go out of adjustment? I *was* leaning toward the hose flexing excessively. Ill try that in the morning.
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Old May 25, 2012 | 10:48 PM
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Unless the hose has Bulged..you should notice that though.
But I would guess a bad bleed.
It took FOREVER to get the frigger to get up off the floor.
That job I mentioned?.I changed Every single friggin part,,that meant Clutch master,hose,slave.Clutch.PP.Bearing,TO bearing..New Fluid..
OH and also the Pedal assembly because a Moron though the clutch would magically come BACK to life if the Throw out bearing was Sheared in half!...he Bent the pedals..(yup.)
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Old May 25, 2012 | 10:50 PM
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will do!

glad you posted again. i wouldn't have seen the job you mentioned if you didn't mention it in this last post.
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Old May 25, 2012 | 11:11 PM
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I hope it works for you.Good luck.
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Old May 26, 2012 | 07:03 PM
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Clutch bled, and back to normal. Lets see how long it stays this way. The bleeder screw may be letting air into the system over time.

Agreen. You coming out to sonic tonight? Ill be there at about 930.
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Old May 26, 2012 | 07:39 PM
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I don't think I'll be going out tonight. If only I lived closer...
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Old May 26, 2012 | 09:54 PM
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.......and it did it again. I'm going to guess it's the teflon taped bleeder screw that has failed.

Yay... more pre-tropical storm fun for me tomorrow!
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Old May 27, 2012 | 06:53 AM
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There's a sealing seat on the inside of the slave cylinder, the threads don't seal against anything. If anything, putting teflon tape on them will cause it to not go down all the way to seal internally.

Pull the slave cylinder and take a look inside. Maybe flush it out a little and see if there's some sort of trash inside breaking the seal. You'll probably end up replacing the slave cylinder anyways.
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Old May 27, 2012 | 12:54 PM
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get a new slave.
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Old May 27, 2012 | 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by misterstyx69
get a new slave.
The sad thing is that it IS new (O'reilly). The machining of the hole for the bleeder screw wasn't so precise, and I had to teflon tape the screw just to be able to bleed it. Air was coming in through the threads, and up the nylon tube.

There was no real way to know when there wasn't anymore air in the clutch line.

Guess I should just get an OEM one. I'll re-wrap the screw for now, it held for a year, should work for one more week.
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