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clutch in backwards??

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Old 07-16-04, 11:47 AM
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I just put a new slave cylinder in...

And throwout bearing, so i did pull a little on the clutch fork. any troubleshooting ideas for the slave cylinder?
Old 07-16-04, 11:58 AM
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****again...We all go through things like this when we first started out figuring out what a wrench was...****

err, ahhh,....I had to figure out what a spanner was. humor.
Old 07-18-04, 03:14 PM
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Without pulling my tranny again, what are good ways to "make sure the clutch fork is in there right"?
Old 07-18-04, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by genII Drifter
Without pulling my tranny again, what are good ways to "make sure the clutch fork is in there right"?

you ALMOST can't..too much pressure from the pressue plate to move it around...buest guess would be to measure how far it is sticking out and have someone measure theirs and see if they are the same.....get you minds out of the gutter folks
Old 07-19-04, 10:25 AM
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What if I "CAN" move it with my hand?

Sorry, I'll stop asking questions after tonight. When I get off work, I'll try again.
Old 07-19-04, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by genII Drifter
No, was I supposed to?
some say yes some say no. I usually clean the surface with a scotch brite (roloc) wheel.

If it was there is a correct and incorrect way. The PP landing surfaces must be machined the exact amount that the surface is otherwise the clutch will wear prematurally.
Old 07-19-04, 10:36 AM
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A stock clutch will not install backwards, but an aftermarket or custom clutch - maybe..

If the clutch pedal is not returning, you have a problem in the clutch hydraulics, not the mechanics.
If the fluid is low - bad master or bad slave or bad hose.
If the fluid is dark - bad master
It could also be air in the system - bleed it.

Last edited by SureShot; 07-19-04 at 10:38 AM.
Old 07-19-04, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by SureShot
A stock clutch will not install backwards, but an aftermarket or custom clutch - maybe..

If the clutch pedal is not returning, you have a problem in the clutch hydraulics, not the mechanics.
If the fluid is low - bad master or bad slave or bad hose.
If the fluid is dark - bad master
It could also be air in the system - bleed it.
Would a bad Master cylynder have gone bad in the time it took me to change the clutch?? Otherwise, I think it is something else.

I played with the clutch pedal height and freeplay enough to get the car to drive, but something is really wrong. There is a "rubbing" noise, kind of like bad brakes. And I'm pretty sure it is leaking fluid form somwhere, haven't had time to get under and check where. I don't know. I'll be off in about 2.5 hours and will check.

Thanks again for the help. If anyone would like me to post my findings.... let me know. Otherwise, I will let this thread die.
Old 07-19-04, 02:55 PM
  #34  
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Ive got a dollar that says you didnt bleed your clutch well enough and a bubble came back and bit you in the ***. Did you try re-bleeding?
Old 07-19-04, 04:56 PM
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You probably owe me a dollar. I accept money orders/personal check through the mail, credit card over the phone or through paypal.

I've got a dollar that says you didn't read the whole thread before posting reply, did you?
Old 07-19-04, 05:36 PM
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Hey when you put your pressure plate on did it scrinch down on your disk or did it just bolt in flat? Also how old is your pressure plate? I'm thinking you might have a broken spring on the pp which is causing the clutch to slip. Either that or for some reason the ball on the clutch fork (it's behind the fork) wasn't put in all the way and is now allowing the clutch to slip.


Edit: I just read your first post, I would double check that fork, if it's not pivioting right it won't let the clutch fully disengage and cause the symptoms your describing. One other thing I just thought of, does your clutch require a special pressure plate? Just something to think of.

Last edited by Froggmann; 07-19-04 at 05:43 PM.
Old 07-19-04, 06:23 PM
  #37  
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Froggman has an interesting point- I had a pressure plate prematurely fail on me (I think about 20K on the clutch at that point) because the pivot ball for the fork arm was so worn that the fork was going in at an angle to the P/P...So, if you're going to pull her apart again, that's something to take a good look at...The tranny front cover (that contains the "pivot" ball) is only like $40...
Old 07-19-04, 06:47 PM
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I got it to move. I got it to move like it is supposed to.

I played with the clutch height and freeplay... a lot. Reinstalled the slave cylinder, re-bled a whole bottle of fluid, and played with the clutch fork as much as could be done from outside the tranny.

It is running, and the clutch isn't in backwards, I guess it probably isn't possible with the disc I put in there. But, I think I may have installed the throwout bearing or the pilot bearing without enough grease. It is still "whirring/whizzing/scraping" after a short driving period. So I still need to take it apart.


The ball on the fork may be going bad, I didn't know to look for that. I will. Are there any symptoms I dhould look for when looking at the "pivot" ball?

I appreciate all the help. I know it will only take a fraction of the time to take it apart and put it back together as it did the first time.


BTW, where would I order a tranny front cover... Victoria British, maybe?
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