BklynRX7

Ok guys I want to remove my BAC and AWS sunday and I just want to make sure im doing this correctly before I get started.

As far as the BAC goes the only thing that worries me is the coolant line that runs through it. I was just going to remove the valve, block off the location on the engine and relink the 2 coolant lines with a piece of similar sized pipe. Does anyone here know the diameter of these hoses? If not Ill check tomorrow night.

For the AWS I just see the 2 lines, one runs to the UIM and the other under the dynamic chamber and into the intake. A search told me just to remove the solenoid, plug the hole in the uim, and pull out the other hose.

Am i missing anything?

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

You should get blockoff plates for the cold start and bac.

They are sold here

http://www.2751engineering.com/2751parts.html

BklynRX7

I have the block off plate for the BAC, the aws doesnt need one, and s5's didnt have a cold start setup, mazda recalled it.

t-too

I've been playing with my BAC little bit... I blocked it off with a piece of gasket material(left the middle intact) and i couldnt get my car to run... It runs when I leave it unplugged, but when i block it off it doesnt work at all. I'm assuming you'd have to adjust the throttle body to get it to work right?

BklynRX7

Well i installed an intake that does not have holes to attach the aws and bac, they are open in the engine bay with breather filters on, the car wont idle on the first try but can hold a stumbling idle after it starts. Im hoping blocking them off so no more air is taken in will solve this. I adjusted the tb to get it to idle in the first place.

NZConvertible

You're sucking in unmetered air and making the idle mixture too lean. Add a connection to the intake pipe like it's supposed to have.

BklynRX7

I know whats happening thats why Im blocking it off. I want to see if I can live wiht removing the systems before I resort to figuring out a way to make them work again.

NZConvertible

So veave them both where they are and disconnect the electrical plugs to disable them. They'll stay closed and you'll know what it's like to live without them.

Personally I'd ditch the AWS (pointless without cats) and leave the BAC valve. I like idle speed control.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

I personally don't even see the point in removing the BAC on an NA car. It won't add any power and it can hurt drivability. I agree with NZconvertable, idle speed control is a good thing.

HAILERS

****, the aws doesnt need one, and s5's didnt have a cold start setup, mazda recalled it.
************************************************** ***********************
You mispoke there. Only the SUBZERO ASSIST was removed. They had enough sense to keep the fast idle cam, water thermowax, cam roller etc.

I've no idea what cold start setup is other than the above list of parts.

NZConvertible

It's in the S5 FSM...

BklynRX7

yes, I mixed the 2 up. I realized the difference now.

dreadseb

What are the pros and cons of removing the BAC valve, I've been thinking about removing it but just haven't convinced myself to go through with it yet.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Pros: None. Well, I guess removal could make the engine bay look slightly "cleaner".

Cons: ECU can no longer control idle. Thus, any load on the engine (electrical or mechanical) will cause a drop in RPM. Causes annoyances like the car stalling when you turn on the headlights/defrost/AC, makes the car easier to stall if you drag the RPM too far down during decel, etc.

dreadseb

If there are no pros to this then why has it been done on more than a handfull of occasions?

Omixeo

iTrader: (1)

Because people are retarded.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

People are stupid?

There are a number of reason really...

On a pure track car, there's no reason for the BAC, so that's a valid option.

Sometimes people don't run them with standalones because it's not always necessary as you can more finely tune the idle with varying loads.

Some people think it makes the car more reliable to remove "unnecessary parts". When you think about it, when is the last time that a BAC failure stopped someone from driving their car? To me, a car that needs to idle at 1000+ RPM, may stall when the headlights/e-fan/AC/etc. is turned on is the definition of unreliable.

Some people think they will get more power. No idea how that one started.

But by far, most people don't understand what they are doing and are just imitating others without putting any thought into it.

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

i dont get it?
i said somthing similar about people being ignorant and i get a warning for it?

BklynRX7

As of right now the aws is gone and the BAC is unplugged. The car idles at around 850 with the lights and fogs on and doesnt drop below 500 when decelerating hard. I dont have any other accessories.

When I start it after sitting several hours i have to tap the gas one time to keep from shutting off but its smooth sailing from then on. Ill probably totally remove the BAC next sunday. Once I removed the AWS the check engine light came on, ill find a way around this.

NZConvertible

Try it with the headlights, foglights, brake lights, wipers, rear defroster and stereo on, simulating sitting at an intersection on a rainy winter day with foggy windows. Add A/C to that and you'll know why I'll never remove my BAC valve.

To get rid of the CEL and error code, measure the resistance of the solenoid's coil, and put a resistor of similar value across the connector pins.