elmayimbe4eva27

iTrader: (2)

So I completed my s5 TII swap into my s4 vert w/ s4 electronics, harness, sensors etc. The engine was rebuilt, 0 miles, mild street port intake, exhaust, and wastegate.

First after months of trying to figure out why my engine would not start, it was because my injectors were low imp and i needed a resistor box. My engine builder told me they were high imp, which is why i didn't bother checking in the first place. Anyways that solved that problem.

So here is were my first issues lies. The car will only turn on with starter fluid and remain on till whenever I turn the key off. When i try to turn it back on it won't, unless i add some starter fluid. The fuel pump (walbro 255), filter, and all 4 injectors are new. I added gasoline to the tank 4 months ago (yes thats how long its taken me to turn this POS on) so i'm under the assumption that the gas is old, and that's what's giving me trouble to start initially.

Second issue Electrical Gremlins.
-All my gauges work except M.P.H. I just changed the 7.5A Meter fuse because it was burnt, so the fuse isn't the issue.

-Horn doesn't work: based on the 2nd gen FAQ (bad solder joints at the CPU)

-Gauge cluster light's don't work: Yes I checked the dimmer control (doesn't work). Based on the 2nd gen FAQ (The light switch connections may have burnt out. Check the back of the light switch. If they are burnt, you will need to replace the light switch and light switch harness.)

-Headlights work, Tail lights, stop lights, Hazard lights all don't work (Yes bulbs work, they are new): based on the 2nd gen FAQ (The light switch connections may have burnt out. Check the back of the light switch. If they are burnt, you will need to replace the light switch and light switch harness.) And this THREAD that another user created with the same issue.

How the hell did so much stop working after a swap? Everything was working before the swap, however, the car was sitting for about a year and a half before it got it's first taste of electricity.
So my question is, have I approached my issues correctly or am I heading a different direction? Thanks.

BomberMan

iTrader: (4)

Well to start with, brand new engines will have difficulty starting until they are broken in properly, (you said the new engine has 0 miles right?) while a port job that may affect your idle will not help this, here is my $0.02:

Set your idle higher for the break-in period. Something like 1.5k rpm will do. Next start the car with some fancy footwork on the accelerator pedel, oil in the plug holes, or starter fluid, and drive it as much as possible keeping off boost and rpm's low at LEAST for the first 1k miles. Starting and compression will improve after awhile.

Speedo is mechanical and needs to be hooked up to your transmission. Since you did the T2 swap you probably just forgot to plug the cable in to the transmission.

Since you probably want to take apart the cluster to check out the speedo anyway (right?) I would check all the bulbs, and connectors including the dimmer switch. (but before this check all the fuses... got the order wrong )

elmayimbe4eva27

iTrader: (2)

Thanks. The BTN fuse under the hood was burnt, so i changed that, all life came back, minus the speedo, but I'll figure that out.

A new problem arose however while trying to drive the car. When I would get into 1st gear (with the clutch fully depressed) and me accelerating (to about 3,000 rpm), the car is practically crawling to get some speed. Unless I almost redline the car will it begin to walk. What's up with that? Clutch, pressure plate, and throwout bearings are new (Exedy). Master and slave cylinders are new (Mazda OEM). Anyone have a clue? Thanks!