chick needs help wireing issue
11-12-05, 01:47 AM
#26
Originally Posted by JStewart
battery was tested at autozone, they verified that both are good. stock gauge shows 10v when car is off. and 12v when car is running.
Prôdigy
11-12-05, 10:42 AM
#29
Engine, Not Motor
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Thread cleaned up. Some people here really need to grow the hell up. The thread will stay clean, or it's gone.
Now, about the original problem. I'm starting from the beginning.
The first absolute thing to do is get a known good battery in place. Start the car, let it run a few minutes, then turn it off. Let it sit 10 minutes. Is the battery dead? If so, then there's another problem. If not, then it has been fixed.
If the problem remains, disconnect the alternator (big connection to battery, small connections as the back), CHARGE THE BATTERY FULLY and then repeat the test? Fixed? If yes, then you need an alternator. If not, then continue.
Disconect the ground cable from the battery. Charge the battery fully. Get an ammeter that can read to 20A or so and connect it in series with the negativce cable and the battery. Do you have a big current draw? It would take hundreds of amps to drain the battery so quickly, so I doubt it. Even so, if you do, start pulling fuses. Once you pull the fuse that stops the draw, you have found the problem circuit.
If you get a huge shower of sparks when you disconnect the negative, you have a HUGE current draw. There are only a few things that can draw that large. The alternator is already disconnected, so disconnect the starter. They can fail and short accross the solenoid.
The big battery cables run down the drivers frame rail, grounding at the shock tower and go directly to the starter. Check along their length for shorts. There is also a power wire that runs up to the fuse box and then along the body harness into the cabin. Check it.
Now, about the original problem. I'm starting from the beginning.
The first absolute thing to do is get a known good battery in place. Start the car, let it run a few minutes, then turn it off. Let it sit 10 minutes. Is the battery dead? If so, then there's another problem. If not, then it has been fixed.
If the problem remains, disconnect the alternator (big connection to battery, small connections as the back), CHARGE THE BATTERY FULLY and then repeat the test? Fixed? If yes, then you need an alternator. If not, then continue.
Disconect the ground cable from the battery. Charge the battery fully. Get an ammeter that can read to 20A or so and connect it in series with the negativce cable and the battery. Do you have a big current draw? It would take hundreds of amps to drain the battery so quickly, so I doubt it. Even so, if you do, start pulling fuses. Once you pull the fuse that stops the draw, you have found the problem circuit.
If you get a huge shower of sparks when you disconnect the negative, you have a HUGE current draw. There are only a few things that can draw that large. The alternator is already disconnected, so disconnect the starter. They can fail and short accross the solenoid.
The big battery cables run down the drivers frame rail, grounding at the shock tower and go directly to the starter. Check along their length for shorts. There is also a power wire that runs up to the fuse box and then along the body harness into the cabin. Check it.
11-12-05, 02:41 PM
#30
'86 N/A Phone Dials
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It seems that there have abeen alot of batt/alt problems lately on the thread. For pictures of where your stock wires are, and or a starting point to redo your wiring, check out my thread. I've been plugging it alot latley, but it'll help you get a visual of where your stock wires are.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/fd-alt-new-wiring-install-s4-480242/
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/fd-alt-new-wiring-install-s4-480242/
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2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
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