just curious as to peoples opinions on how to test end float.

Haynes manual says with the front facing down to setup your dial indicator on the rear plate and needle on flywheel then use your hands to lift the flywheel and check your reading.

my diy13b re video the engine is horizontal he sets up the dial indicator on the front plate and uses the e-shaft bolt but doesn't show how he moves the float.

the Atkins Video shows That they have the engine front up with the dial indicator on the front plate to e shaft bolt.and they use a flat head screw driver and pry between the stat nut and counter weight.


when doing it by hand checking for play i get the correct reading of 0.MM which is spot on but when i use the screw driver method i get as high as .09 which is the max limit. my question is can your pry to hard and get a false reading?

and if the pry method is best can i just sand the spacer on some 400grit sand paper.

thanks
kiwi

 

If .09 is the max limit, then you are still within spec. I don't know how even you could get with sand paper on the front spacer. Why not try another one? They make a few of them (check mazdatrix) with different thicknesses.

 

i have 6 other spacers all being to large the spacer in using is 7.03 all the others vary from 7.05-8.03 the spacers you can get from mazdatrix are above 8 if i remember .09 is max but thta is pusing it when your building a new engine etc

 

Don't pry too hard, it does affect it. I use the screwdriver method on the front counterweight. I wouldn't run it at the maximum allowable end play. It just seems like a halfass way to do things. That extra slop can't help the accuracy of the CAS for example.

 

to get the 0.9 reading i was prying kinda hard hence the whole reason for this thread.. if i lightly pry i get the correct reading of 0.05 which is what i want.

but why would it affect it since its all metal on metal

thanks mate.