initial D is REAL!

I found some eccentric LCA bolts to adjust front camber for like 20 bucks. I was wondering if anyone else has these? Has anyone had these break on them?

Im a little low on cash right now to buy camber plates, but I would hate for these bolts to break on me. I asked this question before and had no replies.

Black91n/a

They're a perfectly acceptable way of adusting camber, and the only way of doing so with stock sized springs, camber plates only work with smaller coilover springs.

They can slip over time and they will compromize wheel/tire clearance because it angles the wheel relative to the strut.

initial D is REAL!

Ahh, good point. Anyone ever break these eccentric botls before? I know in order for there to be adjustment, instead of a straight 12mm bolt, the eccentric parrts is 12mm, but the other part of the bolt is thinner

Malefoda

I got in hand the same product, I've asked the manufacturer, Intrax, wich said there nothing to be scared of, it's premium steel.
I still want a user to confirm... I also find it's thin...

I'm also longing for answer here.

Don49

iTrader: (3)

There are a number of car manufacturers who have used this method. I have never seen a problem with stength. Make sure you are not overtorqueing the bolts.

Roen

iTrader: (2)

I have them on my car, my control arms are notched slightly so that the locktabs have a place to rest.

magus2222

iTrader: (22)

no, just stay away from those, they really dont do much more than the stock ones. the rear is non adjustable for a reason, unless you run the mazdatrix adjuster.
for the front, the best way off adjusting the front camber is either plates or just slot the stock towers, its actually the best way for true camber adjustment, you just got to be REALLY careful when slotting, very precise cuts are needed. or else camber, toe and caster get all kinds of fucked up!

peace

Roen

iTrader: (2)

I've tracked my camber bolts with no ill effect yet. Then again my crash bolts have locktabs, which i've slotted my control arms for. I run the Ingalls ones btw.

initial D is REAL!

Locktabs, are those the washers with spikes coming out of them? Is this something you did yourself?

Roen

iTrader: (2)

You see the tabs in the photo? those are locktabs.

initial D is REAL!

Which photo? The photo for the Ingalls kit?

Roen

iTrader: (2)

yes

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

I've had them on FC's in the past.

They don't provide very muhc adujstability so depending on your reasoning for using them - they might not fit your requirements.

But if they're installed properly they'll work fine as a replacement bolt.

They're a ******* PAIN in the *** to remove once they've been on the car for a while though, I'll say that.

Roen

iTrader: (2)

^^

Crap

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

So...

This replaces the lower bolt of the strut to caliper thing?

I'm trying to visualize where it goes.

I've got positive camber on my front left tire so being able to knock it back a few degrees may save my front tires from bad wear.

Roen

iTrader: (2)

We all have positive camber stock on the FC, it's within the manufacturer specs.

Yup, it replaces the lower bolt. If you have an impact gun, you can actually see the brake rotor tilt as you're impacting the bolt back and forth.

initial D is REAL!

I thought most cars come with anywhere from 0 to -1 camber. Ive never knew they came with positive camber

Roen

iTrader: (2)

You'd be surprised looking at our stock specs.

locketine

yeah, the stock specs are pretty freaking good for the class of car we drive.

So my question is this. I dropped my car 1.5" front/rear using tein springs. The camber is perfect in the back at about 1.5 positive but the front is 0.5 negative and I'd really like it to be back to atleast 1.0 positive. Can these bolts do that?

I'm stuck with making spring caps for camber plates otherwise...

magus2222

iTrader: (22)

heres my question, why would you want positive camber? thats like walking with your knees together, try that at a fast pace.
i think you are getting your numbers confused. - camber is when the tires are slanted in at the top and out at the bottom, providing a better grip at higher cornering speeds, but horrible for tire wear.
and 1 degree + is alot.

peace

Roen

iTrader: (2)

actually, you'd be surprised how negative you can go with your camber for tire wear as long as your toe is set to zero. It's because with camber, your tire is still rolling along the ground, but at a different angle, whereas with toe, it starts sliding along the ground.

initial D is REAL!

Wow, camber in the rear is 1.5 positive? I guess the rear control arm swings a whole lot?

Roen

iTrader: (2)

^^, I hope you were being sarcastic.....

locketine

yeah, I always assume positive things are good.

So I'm positive 0.5 in the front and negative 1.5 in the rear. I'm fine with the rear camber but the front I'd like to be negative 1.0. I'm glad no one actually answered the question.

Roen

iTrader: (2)

bolts will get you halfway there, Camber plates though would be ideal.