cezonetheillest

nah i just have the stock pulley. i was also thinking that it might be like that cause i don't have the airpump pulley and then i might be getting some belt slippage. it doesn't squeel but i just got another alternator tested and i am going to see what that one does and maybe my friend just gave me a shot alternator

cezonetheillest

well just put a new all and the voltmeter in the car reads 14v and then when i did it by hand it read on the battery it was 12.45 at idle. it was also the same on the alternator. also i noticed that there is a wire on the crank angle sensor that is just bare an has no color. i need to investigate more but it's too dark.

cezonetheillest

well just put a new all and the voltmeter in the car reads 14v and then when i did it by hand it read on the battery it was 12.45 at idle. it was also the same on the alternator. also i noticed that there is a wire on the crank angle sensor that is just bare an has no color. i need to investigate more but it's too dark.

cezonetheillest

also it was exactaly like this the last time starts at 14v then it went to 12.5 constant then dead.

cezonetheillest

is there anyway that ******* up the rear defroster could be the cause of all of this head ache. cause i removed the tint my self and messed up the rear defroster things. didn't think that it would do much. any possibilities?

cezonetheillest

bump

HAILERS

Make sure the two small wires on the alternator are arranged as shown in the bottom, lower part of the attached jpg. That plug is being looked at from the wire side of the PLUG. The 12v, fused source goes to the BW position. The other is for a ground signal to the relay in the CPU.

You probably read approx 12v on the WB, but that is nothing but back feed thru the CPU relay.

If the colors are no more on those two wires, put a meter on one, with the key to ON, then pull the fuse (third row from the bottom, second fuse from your left). The 12v should have been removed from the wire that should be BW in color. The other wire will probably still have a somewhat less than 12v on it. To prove that one goes to the CPU ......remove the CPU plug and that voltage should disappear.

No, I don't think the rear heater is part of the problem. Just disconnect it's plug if you still wonder about that. Slim and none.

cezonetheillest

alright i will check that out. i noticed this mourning before work that the volts were at like 12.2v instead of 12.5 but when i started the car volts went to 14v then when i started driving they went up to 14.5. and never any less even at idle. also doesn't the s5 alternator have the b+ terminal facing up? cause the alternator that i put in last night had that terminal facing up.

HAILERS

If the Bplus terminal is the output wire to the battery.........the series five is different. I think it points upwards. To install a series five on a series four all you have to do is rotate that *block* that hold the wire to the battery terminal. It's held on with a nut facing aft. Take the battery cables off prior to working on that. I'm fairly sure if you put a series five on a series four, you NEED to do that because of the intercooler interference.

IF you have a series five alternator on a series four, you need to address those two small wires. The small wire that is fed from the second fuse from your left, third row up.......that wire goes to your left, if you are looking at the alternator from THE FRONT OF THE ALTERNATOR. The other small wire on the alternator goes to the right. Where else? That wire is going to the CPU'S relay for the idiot light cluster. THAT wire will read a touch lower than the other wire when you check voltage on them with the key to ON. That's because your reading thru a relay's coil, thus the voltage drop.

If you have a series FIVE on your series four car.....then make SURE that the wire to your left has the solid 12v when the key is to ON. Again, left being standing in front of the alternator looking aft.

You can prove that is the right wire by pulling the fuse (again, third row from the bottom, second fuse from you left) and seeing that there is NO voltage with the fuse out. Then put the fuse back in and you'll have 12v. Now you know you have the right wire in the right place on the alternator if it's a series five you have in your series four car. That would be with the key to ON when you check for voltage at that small wire.

HAILERS

Also......the voltage might read a bit low at the battery post or at the connector at the battery feed wire on the alternator IF the connection at the alternator is crummy, soiled, rusty etc. Put the meter directly on the post on the alternator when checking the output of the alternator. If the battery post plus reads a lot lower, than what you read at the alternator....then you have a bad connection at the alt or batt. A difference of a half volt is not reason to troubleshoot.. There. Done. Through. Gone. Fixed.

cezonetheillest

i think that maybe it was a short in the amp that made the remote turn on never turn the amp off. i think that is what the problem is. iam going to run it for a couple of days without the amp and see if that fixes the problem.