Changing the front diff. mount
#1
White Comet
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Location: Orange County
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Changing the front diff. mount
Well i've run a search and looked at an endless amount of threads regarding the front diff mount and it seems like that general consensus is to drop the rear subframe exhaust, drivshaft etc etc.
But I also ran into an unorthodox method posted by riptyde described as such :
"just took off the two subframe nuts, pried it down and jacked up the differential with a small floor jack. It worked for me."
Would this method work? Are there any cons to this? Has anyone else done this? Thanks.
But I also ran into an unorthodox method posted by riptyde described as such :
"just took off the two subframe nuts, pried it down and jacked up the differential with a small floor jack. It worked for me."
Would this method work? Are there any cons to this? Has anyone else done this? Thanks.
#2
Sick & Twisted
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: FT Lauderdale, Fl
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All i can say is good luck.....i did mine on a lift and it was a pain in the A$$.....but thats because of whoever the previous owner was had no clue what the hell they were doing....ok enough venting. I wouldn't recommend doing it on the floor, also its not exactly a one man job. Some guys here will disagree cause they have done it....either way....good luck.
#3
Do a barrel roll!
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I have dropped the rear end of my FC more times than Id like to.. Trying to change the mount without dropping the entire subframe will result in nothing but cussing and headaches. It may be "possible" but it is in no way easier. Dropping the subframe really isnt all that big of a deal. I can have it down, rear end out, new rear end in, and back up in a matter of 2 hours or so (not rushing) Dropping it down is a 1 man job. Take off cat-back ( probably just Y-pie depending on brand..) Unbolt calipers, drivershaft, bottom strut mounts(17mm)center stabalizer bar(17mm), and then the rear anti-sway bar from the toe-links (14mm). Then put a jackk under rear diff, and unbolt the 2 side diff mounts(17mm) and the 2 subframe mounts (21mm) along with the little bracket that goes over them (15mm). Now just slowly lower the jack (you will probably need to pry in all 4 corners a little bit) and it will drop down. To get it back up, I have done it myself, but it is alot easier with 2 people, mainly just to help guide it up on either side. But, you will definately want 2 jacks to get it back up, one under the diff, and 1 under the center of the subframe. Maybe get a set of poly bushings for the rear while you are at it, makes it alot easier to put in when you can access everything so much better.
Last edited by Rxmfn7; 10-04-03 at 08:35 AM.
#4
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Damn the T2 engine lol. I replaced my engine/tran. mounts, should have done the diff also.
I rarely go WOT in first but did so yesterday and I knew something was wrong after Yea, might as well replace all the bushings as well and put the JICs in at the same time. Sounds like 1 week downtime
I rarely go WOT in first but did so yesterday and I knew something was wrong after Yea, might as well replace all the bushings as well and put the JICs in at the same time. Sounds like 1 week downtime
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