gshaffer

I changed my alternator. Not exactly rocket science. I had to pull a couple plugs and pump it out since I flooded it when the battery was low when I tried to start it and pull it into the garage. I took it for a test drive and all was cool, untill I pulled in my driveway and it wouldn't hold an idle. It sputters and bucks until it stalls. The next day I fired it up and it idled fine until it warmed up, and it starts idling rough until stalling again. I double checked the wires for the plugs that I pulled and they were on the right plugs, but I even swapped them to make sure. I pulled the coil end of the plug wires one at a time while running and found one that didn't change the idle when it was cold much. I replaced that wire with one I had laying around and that didn't make a difference. I also replaced the 2 plugs that I pulled with spares with no improvement. I tend to think that it is a coincidence and not related to the alternator change, but do any of you have ideas on what to look for?


Thanks

WAYNE88N/A

Something not a lot of people know is that the mounting hardware for the alt is its ground. This connection is just as important as the positive wire's connection at the top of the alt.

So, check your metal-to-metal mounting surfaces and make sure that they are clean. On my alt, anyway, the standoff bracket that supports the small bolt is painted black, which means it doesn't conduct. This leaves the long bolt and its contact surfaces to perform the duties of grounding the alt. Then, of course, you need good water pump housing-to-front housing conductivity, and on and on with the housings, but that's another story for another day

Something easy to check, anyway