Wankel7

Yeah , that is all it really is...and considering how that pipe spends a lot of time glowing..there is a lot of material left on it

James

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Good to know.

Wankel7

You know...when I was putting the new wrap on I realized something....the stuff that fell apart did that after 7000 miles. Not 15,000. Sorry about that :P

James

fdpocketrocket

It's only been 2 months since the last post but I was wondering .... if the ceramic coating or similar (Jethot, etc) is applied on both inside/out, what if it starts to flake off on the inside.

What negative effects could it possibly have? Clog the cat? Slim chance of physically damaging O2 sensor?

I'm torn between wrapping and coating at this point due to this reason. I'm going to buy a brand new DP from rx7store, so the pipe will be new should I decide to have it coated.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

I think what has not been mentioned here is that with the right ceramic coating is not supposed to flake as well as, if done correctly, can add many many years of use with that part. With wraps basically what happens is it will either a) trap in moisture causing rust or b)fall apart through time. What most people have said in the single turbo section is that wraps are a temp fix while ceramic coatings are for good. Now as far as wether or not you can put a wrap on top of the coating is debateable as some say that the ceramic coating needs to breath and if you put a wrap on it, it will fail prematurely. Others say that they do this with no ill effect. Personally I'm going to not use header wrap however I will use a turbo blanket on top of my ceramic coated turbine housing. here are a few pics of my ceramic coated parts.

Richter12x2

iTrader: (1)

Nice! How much did that set you back?

stylEmon

iTrader: (2)

i am one coated BEAST! I prefer this Polydyne. DP, turbo and manifolds are coated inside and out. Also have caoted bearings. I won't be using any wraps beacause of my understanding that they are temporary fixes. A few friends have also had the wraps fall apart on them.

Those ceramic coated manifolds and turbo looks nice man! Not sure how much it ran ya. But what kind of drops in temp do you expect?

The reason I stayed away from ceramic is because of the flaking. It should'nt happen, but good help is hard to find.

I know there is only ONE shop that does the Polydyne coating and have seen their work. The results in temp drop are quite impressive when compared to ceramic. That is why I went with this particular coating.

Richter12x2

iTrader: (1)

Now I KNOW that's expensive!

stylEmon

iTrader: (2)

compared to what? I've never priced ceramic, but compared to wraps, probobly a little pricey. I think it's practical and worth it.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

well the place I got mine done at was recommended to me by brian at bdc so I'm sure they do good work. The quality looks great as well, you can tell there was alot of prep time involved in this job. the total was 3xx bux witch was not bad considering the pricing I got from alot of other placed online.

stylEmon

iTrader: (2)

also, if i didnt get such a good deal on the turbo, i probobly wouldnt have done this turbo, but rather, wait to go big turbo and custom manifold

stylEmon

iTrader: (2)

inside and out huh? That is a little cheaper than the polydyne, and it looks like they did a good job, no doubt.

I want to do my intake manifolds, but am waiting to get FD mani

Richter12x2

iTrader: (1)

$300 and some change for all that isn't bad at all! I just keep hearing about rotary housing coverings that are in the $1500-2000 range for an engine. It probably adds a lot of longevity, but that's another 2 engines for me. :P

stylEmon

iTrader: (2)

I'd hate to be in position where I was thinking about how many engines 'X' amount of money will buy. Why not do it right, then you can spend money on suspension, rims, turbo set up, custom interior.
I dont like to live all peranoid about when my engine will blow.

BTW, not really sure what coatings are going for 2G. I mean, you could probobly find enough **** to coat to equal that amount. But if you take care of the major issues, like turbo and manifolds, AND address other issues like oil temps and air flow you'll have a much stronger motor all the way around. It isnt just coating things that makes the difference.

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

So are you sure that coating on your housings is worth it? Out of curiosity, what proof do you have that it's worth it? It looks nice... but...

F1blueRx7

iTrader: (5)

Thats why DEI makes a silicone spray that you're supposed to apply after you wrap the piping.

stylEmon

iTrader: (2)

For the housings? Best $150 i've spent.

This coating is used on all kinds of race applications. Not only that, it was also used by nasa to reduce heat when re-entering the atmosphere.

Since my car will fly, I'd say it's worth it.

Richter12x2

iTrader: (1)

See? For $150 it's worth it. My point is that I've rebuilt two engines now, and spent less than $500. With a fun car that I abuse the **** out of, spending $1500 to have everything recoated only to have a seal blow up and ruin it all is a waste of money. :P For $150, to get a glassy smooth finish and rejuvenate a good housing with some miles on it to a like new condition - if it'll hold up over the long haul, that would be the ULTIMATE money saving thing there.

On the other hand, if I'm going to be tearing down the engine every 10,000 miles to recoat it, then the extra bit of compression over the short time wouldn't do it for me.

What I'd be more concerned about, is if the heat doesn't get to transfer back into the water jacket, what's cooling down the internals of the engine now? If you're using a heat TRANSFER coating on the housings, that's all good - if it's the same kind of stuff they're using to keep heat inside your headers, then I guess it'd be interesting seeing a rotor glow white-hot.

Richter12x2

iTrader: (1)

I actually thought that was more for water displacement, to keep it from rusting because of trapped water in the tape.

stylEmon

iTrader: (2)

the point of this coating is that it becomes a part of the surface it's applied to. Right now, the coating is just applied on the surface. Once I take a couple full Throttle runs, it bakes into the metal.

does ceramic have to be re-applied?

BTW, mine are new rotor housings. I am taking these measures so that i can gradually build up the car and HP.

As far as the internals go, my rotors and bearings are also coated. So since poydyne coating also assists with lubrication, it is a TRUE heat reducer.

As I eluded to before, (along with coating) I am taking other measures to insure my water and oil temps stay below normal.

Richter12x2

iTrader: (1)

I've just heard about some coatings flaking off over time - and if anything would assist it in flaking off it would be a 2-3mm thick slab of metal/carbon/ceramic scraping across it all the time.

I'd be interested to see a pure mileage type stress test on unbuilt rotary engines - brand new vs this coating. Right now this is an unknown variable for me, and I'm not looking for every last bit of horsepower I can get. Hell, my car's an NA. If I can get my components coated with this stuff and have my used/decent condition internals last another 50,000 miles, with no boost and relatively tame mods, I'd be all over it.

I know racecars use it, but I know John Garcia, who runs a 13B race car, too, and he's got probably better than 3 engines in his garage, for a car that doesn't see 500 miles a year. He's turning about 12,000 rpms though, too.

F1blueRx7

iTrader: (5)

You're right, I think I quoted the wrong post. It also keeps it from falling apart.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Are you sure you aren't thinking of Cermet coating? If so, we are talking about external ceramic coating for heat reducing purposes.

Richter12x2

iTrader: (1)

That's the one I'm thinking of! Isn't that what's on the housings and rotors above?

stylEmon

iTrader: (2)

no sir, that there is POLYDYE coaitng.

http://www.nothingained.com/turblown...s/coatings.htm